DelF

I can relate to angrifying, Sailor. I often feel angrified. Like all good made up words (including protrusionary) it sounds like it ought to be a proper word. Of course, English lends itself to the making up of words because it is so inconsistent. If you can have an artist, why not a paintist or a sculptist? Or an arter? Or a ship modellist? Perhaps we should start a separate thread on made up words? 

Derek

40 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

Does adding the shellac cause any issues with attaching components to the deck later?

I don't find shellac interferes with glue as much as poly, but I'll still lightly scrape or sand the areas where the deck fittings go. I probably should have glued the deck fittings first, but I was too impatient!

36 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Absolutely superb!

Thanks Chris. I still feel slightly guilty that I planked over your superb etched deck, but I hope I've made it clear that's just me adding my own twist to the model and not a reflection on your design.

29 minutes ago, Sailor1234567890 said:

Are those elm tree pump handles shipped and unshipped every time they are used? If not, do they snag on lines or anything? They seem quite protrusionary if I could invent a word.

I love that word! I don't know about full-size practice, but I'm going to leave the pumps off the model until near the end. Precisely because they protrusionate so much. 😁

17 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I'm not doing a build log now, I'm just going to create one post ... See Derek's.... 🙂

Come off it Glenn!  I've seen your finished work and you can still teach me a thing or two.

Derek

Today scraped the deck and applied one coat of shellac. Then I went for an easy task. Constructing the two ladders was light relief after decking for several days. Although I enjoyed doing it, joggling every strake of planks required a lot of concentration. I couldn't resist dry testing the deck furniture again just for the sheer pleasure of seeing Speedy looking more and more like a ship. I'll probably add some more coats of shellac before finally securing all the deck fittings.

A few hull details tomorrow - boarding steps etc.

Derek

Thanks Glenn

On 5/27/2020 at 4:03 PM, glbarlow said:

Did you make all the scarp and joggling cuts with chisels?

I used the miniature chisels for most of the cuts. For longer ones off the model I used the razor blade in the holder. It's marked Made in USA, but I can't remember where I got it. For longer ones on the model (ie on the margin planks, which are glued to the etched deck) I still used the miniature chisels. I cut the deck plank first, laid it on top of the margin plank, scribed round the outside with a fine point, and just carefully worked along the scribed line with the widest chisel. I did the shortest lines with the 1/16" chisel blade.  The planks are so thin it was easy to cut though them with light finger pressure on the chisel. Once I'd chiselled round the scribed line I just gently lifted the waste part from the sub-deck with the finest chisel.

Hope that makes sense.

Derek

Looking really good Glenn. I’m sure you’re right to fit the gaff and boom first. 
 

Derek

7 hours ago, ErnieL said:

I’m slogging through the first plank layer on my Speedy.

I find planking is always the scariest part of the model. For me, the game changer has been edge bending as taught by Chuck Passaro.  Look under Modelling Techniques on the menu bar. Good luck, and I look forward to your update.

Derek

Thanks JpR62, Ernie and Maurice (spotted your name on the marvellous book you produced from your Alert log!), your comments are much appreciated. And thanks for all the likes.

I've just finished planking the deck:

All done bar scraping and applying a finish. I prefer scraping over sanding as I find it easier to get a more even result. As for finishing, I'll probably go for shellac as it brings out the warmth of the boxwood.

In the photo I've included the main tools I used for the joggling. From the right, miniature Veritas chisels, a 1/16" chisel blade from scalpel makers Swann Morton, and a razor blade holder for the longer cuts. The hardest planks to fit were the wider ones next to the margin planks either side. I followed the etched deck in dividing these into three sections with scarph joints:

On reflection, I probably should have planned the layout better to avoid the left scarph running into the joint in the next run of planks, but overall I'm pleased with the result.

I've said elsewhere, and I'll stress again that my decision to do my own planking is in no way a criticism of the kit. There is nothing 'wrong' with the supplied etched deck; in fact it will be a boon to many, especially relatively inexperienced builders. This won't be the only time I depart from the out-of-the-box model, but in doing so I'll be trying to further enhance the kit, not make up for deficiencies or inaccuracies. I'm convinced that the kit as supplied will produce a superb model.

Here's another example of how well the kit is designed and produced. I've taken the deck fittings off the model to finish the planking, and you can see the full extent of the bitts. In other kits I've built the bitts just sit on the upper deck and you usually have to pin them as well as glue them to ensure they are robust enough to withstand rigging under tension. Speedy's bitts on the other hand extend through the upper deck to where lugs on the bottom of each beam locate in holes in the lower deck. When I tried them for fit  each set of bitts slotted straight into its location holes in the lower deck - not through any skill on my part but because the kit is made so well everything just fits perfectly.

My next debate is whether or not to fit a waterway for historical accuracy and to neaten up the angle between the margin  plank and the bulwarks. I'm a glutton for punishment so I probably will.

Derek

Looking really good - smart paint work!

I had to look closely at the first picture to see what was bothering you. Noticeable, but only just. However I know what it's like when you've spotted something like that - it niggles you until you do something about it. Unfortunately it looks like it might be the lower yellow rail that is out of line - the gap between the two lower yellow rails is slightly wider on the right than it is on the left. Fix that though, and the gunports might start to look out of whack. I'd be tempted to leave well enough alone. For me it doesn't detract from a fine looking model.

Derek

Deck planking proceeds slowly and carefully. To break it up a bit I've started preparing and painting some of the deck furniture:

I managed to lose the original flue base. However it was an easy job to knock up a replacement using the hole in the laser sheet as a template:

It's worth taking some time preparing the laser-cut wood components - filing/sanding off char and adding little refinements like chamferred edges on the ends of beams.

Back to joggling. Cutting the last planks on each side will be an interesting challenge!

Derek

Thanks Bill, much appreciated.

On 5/21/2020 at 3:08 PM, glbarlow said:

I’m sure you’ve thought to check your cannons fitting

Just thought I'd triple check.  They do fit, with a minor modification:

🤪

Derek

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

I’m sure you’ve thought to check your cannons fitting in the gun ports with the additional .6mm deck height. 

Hi Glenn

I’ve double checked and I’m ok 👍

56 minutes ago, Bill Morrison said:

  I just ordered my own . . .

That’s great Bill - I’m sure you won’t be disappointed. Vanguard Models is a one-man band, and that man is Chris Watton. Check out his update topic on this forum (I’m on my iPhone so can’t provide the link). It’s great to follow Chris’s updates as he designs and produces new kits, and he’s always open to suggestions for improvements and new models from fellow forum members. 
 

Best wishes

Derek

44 minutes ago, Beef Wellington said:

I think the problem with any single piece deck no matter how perfectly it is laid out or marked is that the large natural wood grain crosses over the planking boundaries unavoidable advertising that its a single piece.

Exactly right - that was my finding with the Speedy deck, which is why I eventually decided to plank over it. I thought long and hard about it though, not least because I don't want any newcomers to the forum or less experienced modellers to be put off Vanguard kits. Chris has done a superb job designing and producing these models and I would hate anyone to get the impression that there is anything 'wrong' with the etched decks or any of the other components. Built straight out of the box any Vanguard kit will deliver a superb model. It's just that serial kit bashers will always look for ways to make their own mark on a kit. I've bashed models in the past to make up for deficiencies in design and materials. Not so with Speedy - in a minor way I'm modifying the kit to further enhance the model, not correct it.

Derek

Thanks Edward, Glenn and Blue Ensign. I agree, the head rails are much better than others I've seen. 

On 5/19/2020 at 4:35 PM, Blue Ensign said:

At least you have a laying pattern already worked out.

I wish. Unfortunately Chris shows the deck planks tapering towards the stern - a refinement I feel neither capable nor inclined to follow. Neither am I mitring planks around hatch openings - I just feel the detail will be hidden too much by coamings to make it worthwhile. I also found it difficult to work out the butt shift pattern on the etched deck. In the end I just decided to go for 20' plank lengths, 9" wide  (95mm X 3.5mm scale), following the 4-shift pattern described by Longridge in his Anatomy of Nelson's Ships (see here for details).

One detail in the kit I am following is joggling - despite the fact that I'm not sure the normal rules are followed on the etched deck. My understanding is that you only joggle a plank into the margin if the snipe (the length of the plank that needs to be cut on the diagonal) is more than twice the width of the plank. On that basis, several planks either side of the mid-line in the bows would not be joggled - they would simply be cut on the diagonal across their full width to sit against the margin plank. However - and this is where appearance trumps realism for me (sorry purists!) - I just like the look of the joggling right the way round the margin plank. In a perverse (and probably masochistic) way I'm quite enjoying the task of chiselling out the necessary shapes and trying to get them as neat as possible. Here's progress so far:

You'll note I had to remove the catheads. I tried to work under or round them but it wasn't practical. Fortunately I was able to free them without damage.

Finally I must repeat my thanks to the two Glenns for two of their recommendations that are helping me greatly with this deck work. The first is the Super 'Phatic aliphatic resin recommended by Scarborough Glenn (see here), which I'm using to glue the planks. This works so fast it's almost like CA - a few seconds and it's stuck enough to lay flat against the sheer and solid enough to trim.  It has really speeded up my deck laying. The second is the doggy dental tool recommended by Texas Glenn (see here). This is now my go-to tool for removing excess glue, and any general small scraping jobs. Not sure how I ever managed without it.

Derek

On 5/18/2020 at 7:28 AM, BANYAN said:

I have seen it expressed as  5-2-3-4-1 and 1-3-5-2-4 but what does this actually mean? 

I find the simplest way to think of these planking schemes is as ratios of lengths. 

Longridge in his Anatomy of Nelson's ships uses the sequence 5:3:1:4:2, and in his case he's using inches. He was building Victory to 1:48 scale, so a 20 ft deck plank was exactly 5 inches long. If he started a line of decking with a five inch plank then every plank in that line would be five inches for as long as possible. The next line up, he started with a 3 inch plank, then finished the line with 5 inchers. The next line up started with a one inch plank, the next 4, then 2 then back to 5. Alternatively, if you work from the other side of your original 5 inch plank, the sequence becomes 5:2:4:1:3, Thus:

This gives you the four step butt planking and avoids butts on adjacent beams. Simples.

If you're working to a different scale and/or plank length, you can still use the same ratios. So on my current 1:64 Speedy build a 20 ft plank works out at 95mm. So my sequence/ratio is 95:57:19:76:38.

Derek

Thanks as always for the likes and supportive comments.

A Diversion

I had intended to complete work on the rudder, but when I removed its protective covering I started having second thoughts about the laser etched deck. There are patterns in the surface of the deck that catch the light and give the impression, to my eye, of marks and shadows. 

I tried a couple of surface treatments - shellac and matte polyurethane varnish, but these both tended to magnify the patterns rather than hide them. 

I suspect that these patterns stand out more on a clear deck, and would tend to be masked once all the normal fittings are in place. However, after much internal debate I decided to lay my own planking on top. After a couple of experiments I found I could mill planks consistently just under 0.5mm - about 1 inch full size, which shouldn't add appreciably to the thickness of the deck. I also found I could loosen the catheads just enough to slip these planks under them.

I started with the margin plank. I knew I wouldn't be able to bend a plank laterally to follow the bulwarks so I had no option but to cut the curved sections from wider sheets of boxwood. The following pictures show the process for one section.

Milling the sheet:

Photocopying the plan, sticking the margin plank to the boxwood sheet, cutting it out and trying it for size:

I've now got all the margin planks in place and I'm starting on the planking proper.

This will take some time, as I plan to joggle the planks into the margin planks. I hope I don't end up regretting this decision!

Derek

Me too.

Derek

Some fiddly work on the prow, starting with the laser cut bow rails and various photoetch parts for the vertical bow rails and prow decoration. 

The PE parts are painted yellow ochre, with the recessed central parts painted a contrasting blue or black (I chose black). Chris suggests painting the parts yellow first, but I didn't think I'd be able to do the recessed parts neatly enough and avoid getting black on the yellow, so I did it the other way round - painting the black first, cleaning the raised bits carefully with a fine file, then painting them yellow:

The next task was fitting the bow rails, which proved tricky. The main problem was that there were  gaps between the bow rails and the vertical rails that are meant to join them to the prow. I decided that this was because the bow rails were too straight. Rather take them off the model I managed to bend them in situ with my trusty hot air gun. I wet the rail with a finger dipped in water, pushed it inwards with the stick and blasted it with hot air until dry. Miraculously it stayed curved enough to touch the vertical rails. In the photo below I've already done the port side. Btw, I'm not pushing on the stick as both hands were busy holding the air gun and my phone!

As a minor aside, I think Chris originally intended that the ends of the vertical rails should locate in holes in the bow rails. The PE parts had little lugs on their ends (which I cut off to make them fit), and if you look carefully at the photos in the manual the bow rails have holes. Anyway, that's not how the design ended up and it works fine.

Remaining details were relatively straightforward - catheads, knigtheads etc. I departed from the instructions by not painting the crown on the end of the cathead yellow. I figured Cochrane could have afforded a bit of gold leaf so I left the neat little photoetch crown unpainted.

Back to the stern next.

Derek

Hi Ernie

I also struggled with the gunport pattern. I found it very difficult to bend such a wide strip in two dimensions to get it to fit snuggly against all the frames. In the end I used a small travel iron (the one I use for Chuck's plank edge-bending technique). I describe in my Speedy log (here) how I used the iron to flatten the gunport pattern in situ. Once they're reasonably flat any remaining lumps and bumps will be lost in the planking.

Derek

Very neat work. I'm glad you're getting on well with the Swiss files - you'll be on commission from Vallorbe soon!

Derek

P.S.   Looking at the last picture, I see you're getting as untidy as me 😁

I finally decided to grab the bull by the horns and tackle the stern counter side timbers that had been bugging me for some time. I had been reluctant to chop out part of the wales to accommodate the side timbers, but in the end it proved much easier than I'd anticipated. I sharpened my smallest chisel, and yet again the boxwood showed what a lovely wood it is to carve:

After that it was easy to fit the side timbers, with a bit of sanding to get everything flush.

With the boom crutches and taffrail fitted and a coat of black paint:

I'm glad I fitted the side timbers. It's not entirely clear from the photo, but they add a more elegant sweep to the stern.

Next, I'll move on to the prow. 

Derek

Hi Glenn 

Just found your new log. You've made a great start and I shall certainly be following along. 

I see you've got the little finger plane you mentioned on my log - I'm seriously tempted to go for one myself. I've already got a range of planes including miniature ones, but to borrow your quote about clamps, a man can never have enough planes.

I was also impressed with your NMM plan. Those old plans are works of art in their own right - I saw one recently that had been photocopied down to a smaller size and incorporated in the base of the display case. It looked stunning.

Great idea for your granddaughter's birthday. All three of my daughters are experienced teachers with five of their own kids between them, but they've all described home-schooling them during lockdown as being "like trying to nail jelly to the wall".  I'm not sure jelly has the same meaning in the US, but I'm sure you get the idea.

Anyway, best wishes and good luck with Cheerful.

Derek

P.S.  Your workshop is too tidy. You've made me feel bad so now I'll have to go and sort mine out.

D

Ernie

If you're using the very fine pins that come with your Speedy kit then a nail driver will definitely not work. I know - I tried! With the softer wood used for first planking I found I could push the pins in if I gripped them with fine needle-nosed pliers. If you need to pin any of the harder second planking, for example the wales, you need a pilot hole as others have recommended.

Derek

Thanks Vane - glad it's not just me!

9 hours ago, glbarlow said:

First off, your hull looks great! You may want to fit a small piece to cover that gap at the bow, painted you won't know its there but it will be obvious if its missing.  At this point the fact that they don't line up is less an issue once the bowsprit and all the rigging is installed.

 

I've never ever built a ship that I didn't have to get creative to modify, adapt, and overcome issues with the stern - there is always something. I think as I showed, I mean the other Glenn showed, and what you held up you can make it fit. Just do it concurrently with the boom crutch ready to go. Even if you don't install that until later you want to know how they look together and adjust from there  - at least that's my recommendation.

 

PS: I like your file stand, mine are just laying there in a pile though I did ask my wife to make be a little felt sleeve to store them in.

Thanks Glenn - I appreciate the advice.

The file stand is just a bit of scrap timber. I was fed up with getting files in and out of the plastic wallet. 

Good to hear you're making the marking gauge I described earlier. I can't claim copyright on it though - like many of the things I've learned in the last few years I read about the octagon gauge on this forum, although unfortunately I can't remember the author. Hope you're getting on with your new plane.

6 hours ago, ErnieL said:

Sacrilege!

Agreed!

Derek

Thanks - much appreciated. I'm just glad wood tolerates mistakes more than some materials. 

Here's a picture I forgot to post earlier. Mmmm. The upper rails don't quite look even in this view, and they finish inexplicably short of the prow. 

More tweaking required!

Derek

Silly mistakes, Part 2

I said in an earlier post that no kit is idiot proof, and I've demonstrated it again with two more elementary and entirely avoidable mistakes. 

First, I ignored the instructions and forgot to sand the inner bulwarks before I fitted the cap rails. As a result the bulwarks were too thick in places, with the cap rail flush with the inner bulwark rather than slightly overlapping it. This would look wrong, especially with the pin racks in place, so I had to fix it. I considered removing the cap rails but didn't think I could do so without damaging them. I could have made new ones, but in the end I decided to sand the offending planks with the cap rail in place. I managed the best I could with various scrapers and a small contour sanding tool. 

The second mistake was even sillier. In order to protect the boxwood I'd applied a couple of coats of matt polyurethane on top of two coats of rubbed-down shellac. Forgetting of course that I had to stick the upper rails and swivel plates to the hull. Needless to say they wouldn't stick,  so I had to rub down my carefully applied poly. 

If the only thing this log's good for is to help others avoid similar silly mistakes (whilst laughing at me for making them!) then it'll be worth it.

Painting the rails before fixing them to the hull saves grief later on.

Like everything else in the kit these are cleverly designed, made so that the rails run in a continuous line  across gun and sweep ports. When stuck firm, you remove the sections crossing the ports with the result that the remaining sections follow the line of the sheer perfectly. The next job was to fit the swivel gun posts and bases - more sanding back of painted surfaces!

Finally, after a fair amount of fettling and titivating I reapplied the matt poly.

The boxwood is really starting to look the part.

Before I go much further I need to decide what to do about the stern counter side timber. But that can wait 'til tomorrow.

Derek