druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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We are all hazarding a guess! -
Yes, Hartron, a magnet will remove most steel wool particles, but some become embedded in the wood surface.
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Rare complete ship's curves set on eBay
druxey replied to Bob Cleek's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Members of this forum would be interested, for sure ( I have had my own set for years.) Mark's advice will be helpful. -
Au hasard is random: i.e. broken down barrels into staves. Perhaps either period spelling or misprint?
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Just lovely, If you are planning on wire wool, try to get bronze not steel. Steel will leave tiny particles that will eventually form rust spots.
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Congratulations on completing this nice, neat little paper model!
- 45 replies
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- Tijger
- Paper Shipwright
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
druxey replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Just make sure that the upper ends of those counter timbers are well protected. Don't ask how I know this! Beautiful work, as usual.. -
One's first fully framed model is never perfect, but the experience will ensure that the second one will be! At least, that's the theory. Your hull is looking really nice so far.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Yes, those 'cross-under' lodging knees are tricky! I notice that the wood grain of the knees run parallel to one arm. They are stronger if you have the grain run diagonally across them so that neither arm has cross-grain wood. Your model is coming along nicely. -
Some of use learn in different ways from others. Have you checked out the other planking tutorials on this site? Perhaps reading them might make things clearer for you as well.
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Steve has it almost right: The re-do is (nearly) always better!
- 160 replies
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- Model Shipways
- norwegian sailing pram
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I wonder if a master hatch model can be made, molded and then repetitive units cast. Could save a lot of work!
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Sweet lines indeed, JD. You will probably find the hull framing quite stable once a band of planking near the sheer is applied.
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Well, that seems to indicate a late introduction of gain. I wonder when this innovation occurred and where? Thanks to Bolin for the excellent photo and archaeological evidence of a stepped rabbet. I stand corrected!
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A spare oar ain't a bad thing! Looks fine to me.
- 70 replies
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- Finished
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Rigging square sails didn't change a lot over time. Again, at such a small scale I'd glue the edge of the jib sails to their stays.
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Ancient galley rams discovered - photos
druxey replied to Louie da fly's topic in Nautical/Naval History
The size of the casting would have been a great technical achievement in its time. -
Usually sails are attached all the way along their yards by short lines called robands. At such a small scale I'd simply use a thin line of glue.
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Dear Steven. I hope my comments aren't too much of a pain! The issue of planks at bow and stern is because the overlap has to disappear by what is known as the gain. It is achieved by one of two methods. One, a rolling bevel is cut on the adjacent plank edges over the last foot or so into the rabbet (the bevel is 45 degrees at the extreme ends, so that the clinker has become carvel), Or, two, an increasing half-lap is cut into adjacent plank edges to give the same result. A simple example of the easier first option is attached. Illustration 4.psd Dory photo 21a.psd
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True: it is the set-up that takes most of the time to do. Then you can churn out gratings quite quickly.
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Sloop from Roslagen by bolin - FINISHED - 1:50
druxey replied to bolin's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
You can dissolve white glue and acrylic medium with rubbing alcohol.
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