druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Welcome! And yes, rigging is scary if you've never done it before. However, if you take it slowly and methodically, line by line, it becomes less scary. Like any complex job, break it down into small steps. Also, there's lots of helpful folk available here to answer any really vexing questions you may have.
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Also, if you do not have a removable insert, the paint-wet material will stick to the board, and will tear when trying to get it off!
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Mike: The insert can be of any material that is the same thickness as the frame. Usually the seams are drawn or painted with a slightly thicker paint than is used on the sail. It is not normally white. Boltropes in this method are glued on using acrylic matt medium.
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Well, that's a fun spar to make with all the transitions! -
Is, perhaps, the cleat for a preventer jeer? The jeer over the cap means that the weight is taken under compression - mechanically more sound than suspended on a cleat. As well, the angle of the jeers is a better one when taken over the mast cap.
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Update: Greg and Speedwell are safely back in Maryland. Watch this space!
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How disappointing, I'm sure. Allan? Allan? No, he's gone now.
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Actually the new rabbit hole you've opened is fascinating; predating Olivier, as it does.
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- heller
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Nutria (coypu) is a different rodent!
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Mike: the small booklet on making SilkSpan sails from SeaWatch Books will answer all your questions. However, if you wet any form of paper, it will buckle and distort as it dries. Therefore one wets and stretches paper on a frame. It will dry taut and flat. If rewetted (with dilute acrylic paint, for instance) it will stay flat as long as it is stretched until dry. Then one can cut it free and it will not buckle.
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The 'over the top' sling arrangement is the logical one from a mechanical point of view, as well as your demonstration of the interference if slung from the back of the mast head.
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Welcome aboard, Adam!
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Well done. All you need now is the lobster!
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
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The secondary pay-off is the increased headroom aft under the quarter deck! A couple of inches would make a difference between having to duck under the beams or not!
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Finally, after a wait of almost three years, Greg Herbert was able to travel this weekend and retrieve Speedwell from David Antscherl's workshop. The model had been marooned in Canada due to covid after having the carved works made and fitted. Speedwell (she was temporarily re-christened Speednaught) is now heading back to Maryland with her rightful owner for rigging. The saga will continue soon.... Photos of the reunion are attached.
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The gap is deliberately there so that water can drain through!
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
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Welcome aboard, Paul. Check out the Marine Modellers of Niagara in the 'clubs' section of MSW.
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Look at some of the planking tutorials on this site!
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Where can I find metal wire?
druxey replied to flying_dutchman2's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Might I recommend not using steel or iron wire - it may rust. Use either brass or copper wire. To get rid of shine, either lightly sand with fine (400 grit) paper or, better, use a coloring agent such as the Jax range of chemical colorants: https://jaxchemical.com/product-category/colorants/ -
What exactly are you trying to waterproof? Is this for a floating model hull, or just to prepare for painting a wood surface?
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After all those spider band sketches you are still sane, Keith? That must have been quite a job figuring them out. Nice boots, BTW!
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Impressive work so far, Oliver. This looks lovely in pearwood.
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Coming along? It certainly is! Your castle structures are a triumph of patience over adversity.
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