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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    My 'take' on clinker planking is with Chuck. I suspect Chuck's suggestion of a higher rise of sheer is the answer, which explains the height of the ends of these early vessels. Nice first go at a real brass instrument!
  2. druxey
    Nice milling job, Tom. Toni: I think we are all a little hard on ourselves when it comes to criticism of our own work!
  3. druxey
    Delightfully dirty! Very convincing, Gary.
  4. druxey
    It has been published for over a century and is a quarterly, peer reviewed, research journal. Fascinating articles on all eras, book reviews, etc.
  5. druxey
    Perhaps: "The White Hound needs 12 (guns) of 4 or 5 pound caliber..."
  6. druxey
    I agree with Waldemar: the (half) plan view is superimposed on the profile drawing!
  7. druxey
    Are you doing any painting, Michael?
  8. druxey
    Well done! The forward edge of the knee is rounded off, so when at anchor the cable doesn't get damaged by rubbing against any sharp corners. See Greg's photos.
  9. druxey
    Lovely clean work!
  10. druxey
    It's all part of our learning curve, bitao. My first fully framed model had parts re-built four times!
  11. druxey
    Roger: your draught is interesting. What reference do you have for the recurve of the upper stem?
  12. druxey
    Certainly the plan under the model helps keep the frames to the correct spread or width.
  13. druxey
    Coming along well, Stuglo! Those 'hidden' details are intriguing to make and install. They certainly give one a good idea of how crowded everything was in these small ships.
  14. druxey
    Is that so bad, Pat?
  15. druxey
    I use Lepage's wood filler, natural, in the tube. Works well; dries fairly quickly and sands well, if a little dusty. Have the vacuum handy!
  16. druxey
    The plank ends need to be sanded completely flush to the transoms. If there is any small gap left, then use filler. Otherwise you'll be making a lot of dust if you fill first!
  17. druxey
    Have fun with this step, Maury!
  18. druxey
    Thanks, Wayne! Those two PDF's are very interesting - at least, to me!
  19. druxey
    The strand issue could be minimized by paint, perhaps, smeared into the conts of the line?
  20. druxey
    I agree that, at your scale, fiber rather than metal for rigging would be far easier to work and look just fine.
  21. druxey
    That is a very generous offer, Henry. I hope that you aren't swamped with requests!
  22. druxey
    Looking very impressive, Pat!
  23. druxey
    Sometimes the aft upper end of a framed hull like that can distort before being tied together with all the other framing, beams and knees. My first model had that issue as the upper works were only in frame for some years. I actually needed to bury tie rods under the quarter deck beams to pull the topsides into spec'd width!
  24. druxey
    Lovely clean work, Ryland. Congratulations!
  25. druxey
    Kevin: The rule of thumb is one riser depth plus one tread width totals approximately 18". So a six inch rise, 12" tread, etc. (Sorry, you metric folk!) This applies to flights of stairs, within certain parameters. Ladders, being steeper, are another matter. Around 10" spacing seems average.

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