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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Bienvenue, Bastaco!
  2. Welcome aboard, Doug. Enjoy the wooden world!
  3. Welcome back, Keith! Glad you had a good summer. Nice new detail work.
  4. Can you tell us the source of your image, please, greenstone?
  5. Good news, Michael. Thanks for letting us know. Doctors need a good laugh these days. I recently underwent colonoscopy ( all is well) and, at the follow up that my wife insisted on attending with me, told them both that he had seen more of me than my wife ever will.
  6. I'm sure that you can adjust so that both sides are the same. A little careful sanding on the 'tall' side.... Also, any glue blobs can also be taken care of. Next gluing job, remove squeeze-out with a damp brush before it dries. Much less work!
  7. I agree with Pat: it's a traverse board. The second item might be a duty officers' name board or on-off name board, perhaps?
  8. It certainly was usual to store spare spars (often topmasts) on the skid beams in the waist as seen in your photographs, so these were most likely contemporary with the models themselves. Other contemporary models show at least one boat stowed on the spare spars, but exactly how they were secured I'm unsure.
  9. Yes, these wrecks are being explored and recorded each summer. I don't know whether work has been interrupted by covid or not.
  10. That's it, Ben! One small tip: use a finer line for marking out; excessive line thickness can throw things off.
  11. Fein? Pricy, but nice!
  12. Are you trying to solder on trunnions (the pegs that are on either side of a cannon)? It may be far easier to drill a hole through the body of the cannon, insert a suitable length of rod and solder this into the hole, or simply use epoxy glue. It will be nearly impossible to solder two separate pieces exactly in line on either side of the cannon.
  13. Thanks for letting us know, Michael. Take your time to let it heal properly, please!
  14. Mangiamo! Welcome to MSW, Giacomo.
  15. I bet the full-size hatches weren't within 2 thou of square! Nice, Maury.
  16. I'm glad that you have 'got' the difference! If you get 95% rubbing alcohol there's no need to wait for wood to dry out. If you are using 70%, there's nothing wrong with that except that you need to leave the wood to dry thoroughly before re-gluing the pieces.
  17. While it is true that the Jimsaw does not tilt, consider how often you actually need to make a tilting cut. And, if you do frequently need to, Jim has a subsidiary tilting table top that will achieve the same result.
  18. Well, the first thing is to slow down. Enjoy the process. This is not a race! In answer to your questions: Alcohol will not weaken wood. However, if it is less than 95% alcohol, the water content will soak wood and it will need time to dry out again. PVA (white) glue sets in a few minutes and I'd only leave a joint clamped overnight in exceptional circumstances such as ensuring straightness. The water content in PVA may tend to warp small section wood parts.
  19. Wilkommen, Tobias! We look forward to seeing your work.
  20. Platforms in some 18th century ships had the same arrangement, with rabbets on the beam edges for the planks to sit in.
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