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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    While good, be aware that the AOTS series do have errors in them. Check against other references.
  2. druxey
    Lovely, Siggi!
  3. druxey
    Congratulations on all that you have achieved in just two years, Chris!
  4. druxey
    Perhaps part of the problem is conflating excellent draftsmanship with researched historical accuracy. The two are not always mutually inclusive. I would tend to accept both Frank Fox and Richard Ensor's work with less question than John McKay's. For instance, there are questionable items in the AOTS book by McKay and Coleman. Although beautifully delineated, for one instance, joggled deck planking was of later origin than 1779. A good friend of mine, the historian Karl Kessler, declared: "This is a very small book. Read elsewhere and read critically, always."
  5. druxey
    Practicing a new skill on scrap is a good strategy!
  6. druxey
    So, onward again. Next are the stern sheets (seats). Here is an interesting departure from the published plans. The card pattern has a distinctly different outline when fitted to the model. I checked immediately whether the riser height that supports the thwarts was too low. It it is on spec. If the lines plan is true (and it faired out perfectly) then the plan of the stern sheets must be wrong. This, I suspect has to be the case, so will continue using my pattern shape. Beneath the stern sheets is a low partial bulkhead and two supporting knees. These are not shown other than in section on the profile but are seen in the photograph, post #203. (The knee is only just visible to the right of the anti-hogging post added by the museum.) These photos are as good as a time machine! Thank you again, Eberhard. Thanks for dropping by, and remember to sign on for the Trafalgar project!
  7. druxey
    Her lines are looking sweeter!
  8. druxey
    A really fine beginning, Gianpiero! Not many folk make tabled scarphs as they are completely hidden. Like Greg said: ahead of the pack.
  9. druxey
    Rarely has such a small part taken so long to make. However, it was finally done (pic before cleaning it up), refined and then installed. The white 'background' is actually Foamcore board with a cut-out to act as a kind of girdle, cinching the hull in to the designed beam. I've found that carvel hull boats always tend to spread a bit, whereas clinker boats do not. In this instance, the spread was four scale inches. The hull will stay in this until the thwarts and their standards (inverted knees) are installed. This will stabilize the hull shape.
  10. druxey
    Apart from the superb quality of our build, your rate of progress is remarkable!
  11. druxey
    I now have a workable method for the grating! The photo shows this. I could not mount the grating blank on top of the slide as there is no clearance under the saw. So the grating is mounted on a squared wood block to the correct height that I manually traverse, then advance the longitudinal feed 1.1mm. Repeat.....
  12. druxey
    Bruce: Unfortunately, that is not the way gratings were actually made. If both longitudinal and cross-members were half-jointed together, they would fall apart when sliced into two pieces as you suggest. Real gratings had full-depth cross-members and half-depth longitudinals. Only the cross battens were scored (grooved). In the case of this atypical grating, it is the longitudinals that are scored. Eberhard: That might be an alternative approach. Glue two longitudinal blanks to a carrier sheet at the appropriate angles and groove them first, then cut strips off them and assemble. Thanks for your suggestions!
  13. druxey
    That or photo-etch had crossed my mind, I must confess, Noel! However, this is one of the challenges that I've set myself. There are exquisite examples of miniature gratings in some museum models. If the old timers could do it....
  14. druxey
    To clear up any confusion; the grating shown in my photos above was a simpler trial version only. The actual grating will be finer in scantlings. 'Willl be' is the operative phrase. I've attempted several gratings now and, despite a spacing jig, cannot get sufficient consistency of spacing for the cross-battens. I found a tiny Dremel circular saw blade (bought about 50 years ago and never used!) that cuts an .020" kerf and am figuring out how to mount the grating on my cross-slide with sufficient clearance under the headstock. It would not work at all on my Unimat DB200, but might just work with some McGyvering on my Boley lathe as the saw will be held in a collet rather than a chuck. The cross-slide will provide accurate spacing. Stay tuned!
  15. druxey
    In small ships there was no orlop deck, any partial decking was known simply as 'platforms'. Over that was the lower deck, then the upper or gun deck.
  16. druxey
    I think one stern transom knee is a spare!
  17. druxey
    Very nice rendering so far, HH. I like the fact that you are trying to balance the artistic with the technical constraints.
  18. druxey
    Shipman: I agree that there are disparities between the photos from Eberhard and the drawings, but they are generally minor. The photo seems fairly close to the drawing of the grating.
  19. druxey
    Looks as if the bow knee is on the transom. Look at the different shapes of bow and stern knees on page 3.
  20. druxey
    It could be in two halves, but at model size....
  21. druxey
    Eberhard: It is 1 3/16" long. Kieth: Thank you. Were the grating square, I would have done exactly that, but this one is not....
  22. druxey
    Well, the test run seems to work, if a little labor intensive. The brass strips act as depth stops and I used a piece of cross-batten stock to act as a spacer. A little refinement of the method, then the actual grating is next....
  23. druxey
    Alas, Grant, my mill does not have a rotating head, or that would be the easy answer! Maury: Yes, the holes are tiny parallelograms indeed.
  24. druxey
    Thank you, Pat, and all who have dropped by. Eberhard: Yes, notching the chevroned battens is the next step. However, how to best do this is the question. I have a .020" slitting saw blade, but would need to do this with the assembly inverted and hence blind. This I'm not keen to do. I don't have a suitable tiny milling cutter to do this on my small mill - the other obvious solution. So I'm pondering other methods around this problem. One possibility is using a narrow slotting file (I have one that is .020" wide) with a jig for the correct spacing and depth.
  25. druxey
    Well, Mark, you will need micro carving tools for these! Or commission someone tiny to carve them.

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