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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Continuing, I made and fitted the bow sections of the wash strake. These were spiled as I had the hull planking, cut and glued in.. The next apart of construction was a nail-biter. The upper bow breast hook and extensions had to be carefully shaped to fit properly, glued in, and then drilled for the hawse holes. I only had one shot at getting the holes in the correct places on either side of the bow. There was virtually no margin for error. Too high, and the drill would break out, too low and the hole would pierce the rub rail that has yet to be installed. Fortunately, all went well. The holes were drilled under size, then slight corrections made with a round escapement file. At this point, the stem was bevelled on each side and the inside bow neatened up.
  2. druxey
    Now things start to get interesting!
  3. druxey
    Brass antiquing agent, Tom.
  4. druxey
    No, the reinforcing piece is on the prototype original, Shipman. It is Plan A, o, ye of little faith!
  5. druxey
    Thank you, Giampiero! I forgot to mention that the transom is now trimmed to its final shape and a reinforcing piece attached to the fore side. Next is the wash strake.
  6. druxey
    More finishing details at the stern; a step and a hoop for an ensign staff. The photo I have of this area shows more metalwork, but it looks as if this was added later by the museum for the anti-hogging arrangement.
  7. druxey
    They look more like piranhas!
  8. druxey
    Exactly, Michael! My party trick is to cut an exact 45 degree angle without a protractor using the reflected image on the back of the chisel.
  9. druxey
    Thank you for looking in and for your kind words. More progress soon!
  10. druxey
    Looks pretty neatly done to this point. There will aways be minor tweaks when building a model.
  11. druxey
    Use threads instead of battens with a spot of PVA on the frames. To adjust them, wet your finger and roll the thread up or down the frames as required,
  12. druxey
    Actually, the rounding above deck is easy. Leave the corners square until after the deck is laid. A sharp chisel and a 45 degree cut just to the deck and a horizontal one at deck level. Then a few strokes of a sanding stick and you are done!
  13. druxey
    The many stub toptimbers have been cut and dry fitted. Their shapes vary along the length of the boat. I cut them using my favorite tool; a ¼" chisel. Using a larger blade makes seeing the cutting angles easier. Next will be refining the fit and gluing the toptimbers in.
  14. druxey
    You must be barking mad! Welcome to the club, Alan.
  15. druxey
    Yes, Shipman, often thwarts were set into scores in the risers. This particular boat did not. I think Eberhard addressed your other points very well. Horst's model is a beauty. Thank you, Eberhard!
  16. druxey
    Not a close yet, Shipman! There's a lot more to do yet. Thank you for your kind remarks. The brackets are standards, the name for inverted knees. It appears that the thwarts in this boat are fixed. The standards create a strong connection between the sides of the boat, preventing 'spread', both in the model and the real thing. Your comment on footrests or stretchers is interesting. They are not often shown in draughts of boats, but I'm sure they were normally there. If you think about the action of rowing; if you can brace your feet you can effect a much more powerful stroke and conserve energy.
  17. druxey
    If you absolutely want to pounce at scale, use watch gears.
  18. druxey
    As far as I know, the boat was not armed. A strong connection is, however, required to hold the two sides of the bow together.
  19. druxey
    If you mean fairing (shaping) the edges , this will only work if the layers or frames are almost in contact with each other. In the case of a model with bulkheads, where they are spaced far apart, you can only fair them after the framework is assembled.
  20. druxey
    The trouble with research is that you find out stuff!
  21. druxey
    Yes, those plates are poorly nailed with large dimples - nay, large dents!
  22. druxey
    Well, I thought I was progressing well with the stub toptimbers. I'd completed the port side when I realized that I'd beveled them the wrong way: instead of the outer surfaces being almost vertical, they flared outward. A session of water (isopropanol would have been too aggressive and loosened planking) followed by 'tooth-pulling' - and teeth grinding! - ensued. I've now begun a second batch of correct toptimbers. They have an almost comma-shaped profile and are tedious to make and fit.
  23. druxey
    The half laps were also dovetailed ones!
  24. druxey
    This question made me smile. For my first 'coppered' model when i was about 16, I used 5 thou copper. As the model scale was 1:96, the coppering looked like cedar shingles! As mentioned by others, just because the actual ship used copper doesn't mean you have to use copper on a model. Very thin paper attached using a glue without water content and painted will look much better. Unless very large scale, forget the nailing pattern. Experiment on scrap before committing to the actual model. To answer the original question, one way to cut thin copper is with a straight edge and sharp blade. Use a hard surface such as a piece of plate glass to cut on. Score the metal and work the piece back and forth along the score using parallel pliers until it comes free.
  25. druxey
    As if model sails aren't enough of a challenge without decorating them!

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