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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Neatly done, Maury!
  2. druxey
    So, after many layers of gesso and sanding a good surface was achieved on the plug. While gesso coats were drying, I began construction of the backbone of the cutter. The stem and stern posts were cut out of wood a scale 2" and 3" respectively. The stern post was tapered to 2" at the heel. The rabbets were marked out carefully and cut. The drawings of this cutter showed both inner and outer rabbet lines. This established the changing bevels. The outer line was cut with a new scalpel blade and the bevel cut using a miniature chisel. Thinking ahead, the holes for the ringbolts were drilled using a #72 bit held in a pin chuck. Next will be the keel.
  3. druxey
    Over the planking for sure, Mark. The batten idea will certainly help align the pieces nice and smoothly. I found that my best molding strategy was to start with blanks that did not account for bevel on the back. The lengths were rubber cemented on a wood backing board. The molding scraper was then run along repeatedly and lightly until it bottomed out on the backing. That ensured a consistent depth of cut. After removing the molding from the board and cleaned of rubber cement, the bevel was put in. This was done with a very sharp chisel to establish the angle, then rubbed on a sanding board to refine the bevel.
  4. druxey
    Hope this is a quick fix for you, Mark.
  5. druxey
    Welcome! And I'll add; read and understand the instructions first!
  6. druxey
    Smart move to begin with something simple. As you'll find out, even that has challenges!
  7. druxey
    The gesso provides a white surface which you can use pencil on. The lines show up clearly and you can easily erase if you need to. Stay tuned to see this.
  8. druxey
    Very nice and neatly done, Clare. The sail material looks very convincing.
  9. druxey
    Thanks, but not yet, Chuck! It's gesso and sand and repeat time now.
  10. druxey
    Amazing, Eberhard! Would a very small broach clear any clogged holes?
  11. druxey
    Just about completed the smoothing of the plug. It is worth taking time to refine this even though it isn't part of the model itself. A little filler was required in spots in order to create a smooth fair surface. Next will be several coats of gesso and sanding. The planking runs can then be marked out.
  12. druxey
    The sheer was sawn out and smoothed using shaped sanding sticks. The half-hulls were then joined with a central 'spine' to allow for the keel/stem/stern post assembly. The projection allows me to clamp the plug in my vise. Shaping then began using a sharp chisel and gouges.
  13. druxey
    Coming in late to this party, that is a lovely job that you are doing on this, Håkan. Visually the colors work very well.
  14. druxey
    The lifts for the plug have been cut out and glued up. Next, the profile of the boat was marked out on the inner surfaces of the halves. I remembered to keep the off-cuts of the lifts to temporarily glue on again in order to scroll-saw the profiles!
  15. druxey
    Lovely clean work. Usually the first head beam is in one piece and scored on to the front of the stem head. I've not seen this arrangement before.
  16. druxey
    Strain? It thought it was Strine!
  17. druxey
    Thank you kindly, Bruce. That would be much appreciated! If there will be blame to be laid.... It's not often one has the luxury of a specific period small boat photo to refer to. Yes, Håkan, she is definitely carvel planked.
  18. druxey
    Well, having read the thread on an article seen the drawings and photos about a cutter preserved in Venice, the beautiful form has inspired me to attempt to build a model in 1:48 scale. The first step was to download the photos of the pages in the article that showed the surveyed drawings. These had to be stitched together and distortion removed, which was done in PhotoShop. Then the drawings had to be re-sized to 1:48. Having the overall length, width and depth helped define the reduction required. Once the drawings were to scale, I could begin. The first step was to begin preparing a plug on which to build the hull. Leaves of yellow cedar were cut from blocks (1) and sanded. Four layers a scale 4" thick, two layers 8" and one layer of 15" were needed for each half of the plug. These thicknesses matched the waterlines on the plan (2). Tracing paper was used to transfer the waterlines to the leaves of cedar and laid down using graphite paper (3). The opposite pairs of wood leaves were rubber cemented together before cutting them out on the scroll saw. To be continued!
  19. druxey
    If I may comment; I'm glad that you are having a good time, but reading and understanding the instructions first will prevent frustration!
  20. druxey
    Terrific demo and explanation!
  21. druxey
    I have a whole box full of different flexible and rigid sanding sticks and blocks. The blocks have convex and concave surfaces in different radii. Great for sanding things like stem pieces or deck beams.
  22. druxey
    Great result, Mike. The hanging of a rudder is so often poorly done with a huge gap between it and the stern post.
  23. druxey
    Quick! Ask Phineas for his 'shipwright's secrets'!
  24. druxey
    Have you considered turning just a master pattern and casting the guns that you need? That way they would all be identical. As Wefalck points out, your lathe set-up is far from ideal for repetitive miniature work.
  25. druxey
    Well done, Dan. Your client mailed the parts in an ordinary envelope????? At least I'm glad that the aquarium case has gone! She looks great. And now you don't have to smell the ivory any more!

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