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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Don't slather on the epoxy? Also, you could put a bolt through that has a light coat of oil or grease if you are really concerned, then remove said bolt after.
  2. druxey
    You will find, unless building a floating box, that every knee will be slightly different and will need custom fitting. Mass production here won't fit.
  3. druxey
    Each knee will be 'custom', not off the shelf! If you are planning to rig later, there are also a myriad blocks to make....
  4. druxey
    About ¼" by 3", but I make them in all kinds of sizes depending on the application.
  5. druxey
    I suppose that the wood specie you are using is the issue. You need a dense wood such as pear or Castillo for such items.
  6. druxey
    Usually the wing transom is fitted first.
  7. druxey
    If you look at the frame pattern, you will see the slot for the deadwood. There are two lines across the top of the slot. The solid line is the fore edge of the frane pair and the dashed line indicates the bevel to allow the frame to sit at the correct height. Does that solve your problem?
  8. druxey
    Run the grain diagonally so that neither arm is cross-grained.
  9. druxey
    In the lower image (the upper one is an early 17th century example) the 'short' timber is the fashion piece and the abutting one forward of it is the aftermost (half) cant frame. The transoms were usually tenoned or dovetailed into the fashion pieces.
  10. druxey
    Not too long or too wide, either!
  11. druxey
    Thanks for the response, Richard.
  12. druxey
    Your lantern at that scale is quite outstanding! What are you using for glass?
  13. druxey
    I'm trying to understand what went amiss here. Was the last cant frame a little high or the the first square frame a bit low to cause the disparity? Another possibility is that the inner surfaces of the cant frames needed more fairing. The way to determine this is to check the thickness of the last cant at various points and compare with the thickness of the dead flat pattern at her same points along the frame.
  14. druxey
    Yes, water is used to dilute acrylic paints, mediums and varnishes.
  15. druxey
    Here is an example of sanding stick: The sandpaper is rubber-cemented on the lower side of the thin, flexible batten, so is easily replaced.
  16. druxey
    Greatly improvement, Dan! Nicely done.
  17. druxey
    I'm afraid I have to contradict you. Look at this contemporary plan of a vessel with considerable drag: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/85907.html As you can see, the frames are at right angles to the keel, not the waterline. There are many other similar archival examples. This is not unique.
  18. druxey
    Love the capsquares! Beautiful work, Marsalv.
  19. druxey
    I've never seen a pantograph as sophisticated as the one above. A beautiful bit of kit.
  20. druxey
    Sweet! Too bad part of the railing is hidden below deck.
  21. druxey
    I find flexible wood sanding sticks with a small handle helpful for inner fairing, other than at the extreme ends of the hull. Starting to look good inside, Stuglo!
  22. druxey
    Yeah, it's called 'covid brain'. Either that or advancing years.... In my case, I prefer the first explanation. Nice to see you back, on the job, Clare!
  23. druxey
    I pulled out some of the 'fag ends' of the rule blanks that Rabone sent me. The 'shoulders' were already milled for the ferrules. After over 60 years, the wood (unvarnished) is still quite pale as compared to true buxus boxwood.
  24. druxey
    A pantograph is a rather difficult tool to use in practice. You need to have an extremely steady hand on the tracing point, sufficient weight on the pencil point for it to mark properly and a solid mounting on your drafting table. It was useful, I suppose, in the days before scanners and digital enlargement, but I'd scan and (in your case) reduce and print out what you need.
  25. druxey
    I agree with Allan on the slightly decorative upper end of the backing piece.

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