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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Well, one could leave the framing fully (or partially) exposed on one side and completely plank the other as a compromise.
  2. druxey
    The base of the roundhouse (and actual seat) is set at beakhead platform level.
  3. druxey
    It's just a flesh wound!"
  4. druxey
    I don't think that the head was part of the beakhead platform. It was beside it at upper deck level. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81298.html https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81196.html and, in particular https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81164.html
  5. druxey
    Well, you could thin the aft deadwood a bit, or just live with a slightly 'fat' stern post.
  6. druxey
    Oh dear. Taking things apart is not much fun, Karl!
  7. druxey
    If you absolutely have to use lead, please seal it with clear finish. With time and air it will deteriorate to white lead salts. That's ugly! If you can substitute non-lead metal such as pewter, so much the better.
  8. druxey
    Yup, that's what happens to the log if not processed promptly. However, if you can access your neighbour's saw soon, that is much better! Read up on quarter sawing as well.
  9. druxey
    The lines converge too much at the bow. You will have strakes that taper to points. Let the first thread above the keel end at about bulkhead 2 and space out the other threads above. If you read Antscherl's advice, you'll see that the garboard strake ends just where the stem begins to rise, which you do indicate. Aft, the strakes should spread out over the deadwood all the way down to the keel, or you will end up with splinter thin strake ends there as well. The lower edge of the garboard should be parallel to the top of the keel.
  10. druxey
    If you don't cut it soon, it will split as it dries. Slab it as soon as you can. Of, course, winter cutting when the sap is down is the ideal. Now is not the best time of year.
  11. druxey
    Welcome to MSW, FWS!
  12. druxey
    Well, the Swedish employed Frederick Chapman, son of a British naval officer, so I'm sure that there was a fair bit of trading of ideas and personnel between nations in terms of design. I'm sure that, as an Irishman, that gentleman was more than happy to design against the British!
  13. druxey
    So, the truss tensioning method is what later was termed a 'Spanish windlass' I believe. Lovely work on your model. It has an air of authenticity about it.
  14. druxey
    I used to have a Dumore sensitive drill press....
  15. druxey
    Very neat metalwork, Maury!
  16. druxey
    True enough, Jim. Very few knew how to swim. But falling off the bowsprit while at anchor, unless he was unusually clumsy if he was not drunk?
  17. druxey
    The best way to tell if the light is real or dummy is to see at what level it sits relative to the decks.
  18. druxey
    My condolences on the loss of your favorite drill bit. Certainly outlived its expected life span, though. Glad the flag locker will now work out for you.
  19. druxey
    Perhaps he was drunk?
  20. druxey
    Looking very nice, Mark. Thank goodness there's a bit of wiggle room to even out that channel wale if you need to!
  21. druxey
    If it's not a gronicle, then it's a thrupple nut. Sorry, Bob; but Steel defines 'mast hoops' as follows (Rigging and Seamanship, 1794, Volume I, page 6): HOOPS are strong circles of iron driven on masts and yards. Hoops are also as Bob describes.
  22. druxey
    Very nicely done!
  23. druxey
    Mast hoops.
  24. druxey
    "...he chortled in his joy! " New coping blades indeed! You have a good lady there, Steven. My own, bless her, wouldn't know a coping saw blade from a jeweler's saw blade.
  25. druxey
    Glad the change worked out for you, Andy. That detail make all the difference.

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