druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Velkommen indeed, Gaffrig!
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Good questions and answers! -
Welcome! What you wrote about your experience so far is exactly what all of us have gone through/are going through. You will have plenty of sympathy and advice if you need it here. For a first attempt, you've done very well. Your model looks like most folks' third or fourth!
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I hope your grandson is watching and learning your techniques. Make sure he starts a log on MSW as well! We'll be watching.I 'm happy to read that he will carry the torch on for you.
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- hmw
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A good book on building model open boats will also show you how to do this. I find a rolling bevel is easier to do at small scale, especially if the planks are only 1/64" thick! The clinker boat at the back is 4" long.
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I missed 'Nike' completely! Thanks for pointing it out. Early promotion, not for a shoe in this case, but a runner!
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Looks like an early version of what was called a 'shoe block' in the 18th century. In that case, the two sheaves were set at right angles to each other. Think two single blocks joined end to end at right angles.
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You might be interested to know I found a copy some years ago of The Practical Shipbuilder of 1839. It was reprinted in limited facsimile edition in 1940 by Richard McKay. Inside the front cover is glued a sliver of wood about 1" square and about 1/16" thick, labelled in pen: Piece of the Ways Donald McKay's Shipyard East Boston - 1845 - 1875 The book is dedicated and signed by Richard McKay. There are seven fold-out plates of representatire hull forms of a sloop, brig, etc, up to a large ship.
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Terrific work, as usual, Danny. I'm sorry that you are having difficulty continuing. If you can't complete this model, I hope you know someone who can and do both the model and you justice.
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- hmw
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I've seen the results of stereolithography (cannon in various scales) and they are very impressive. See: https://modelshipwrightsofniagara.weebly.com/monthly-meeting-blog June 19, 2019 and the cannon shown on May 12, 2019
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Bellona being a goddess of war, she would not have been unarmed! A sword of some sort in her right hand and shield in her left. I'd be pretty confident that the original figure had those.
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A question about glue.
druxey replied to danbloch's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Like the other gentlemen say! -
Sure grooves help align the frames, but my 'aha' moment came when removing a boat and half the frames stayed on the plug! Had to glue them into the shell anyway.
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When I first made open boats, my molds were made with grooves for the frames. I realised later that I didn't need to do that: I simply built the planks, edge glued over a plain mold. After freeing the shell, I bent in the frames (this is at 1:48 scale). Works just fine and saves a lot of work. Clinker boats can be built in the same way. The only critical points are: a) The planks must be accurately spiled b) the fit between strakes be really tight in the case of the carvel hull
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The process of lofting frames is too long to describe here. Look it up. It's an interesting process.
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Not only do I enjoy looking in on your log and progress, but this little piece of etymology is fun to learn about as well!
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- egyptian
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Glad the mullions worked out: it makes such a difference to the overall appearance of the model!
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Don't drop the thread, Steven! That will cause the same issue of skinny planks, but just move it down. Two drop planks under the wale illustrated in the photo.
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- Tudor
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Aft looks pretty nice to my eye. Forward is good, other than you may need to 'drop' a strake or two under the wale to avoid plank ends of the upper belt becoming too skinny into the bow rabbet.
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Good start. There'll be time later to dress the wood. Now, remember to paint or wax the ends and sticker the slabs for even air circulation!
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Actually, good quality holly is becoming scarcer and scarcer. Get as much as you can and, if you have excess, give some to your model-making friends.It'll guarantee their admiration and affection for you!
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