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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Almost. Get rid of the sharp edges where the lanyard will run, or it will fray through in no time!
  2. druxey
    Your block shapes are great. However, the hearts should be rounded off more on the inner sides/edges.
  3. druxey
    Ooh! Nice project, Chris. I'm on board here for a vicarious ride....
  4. druxey
    Interesting procedure. Does the set silicon stone have any slight flex or is it perfectly rigid like conventional dental stone?
  5. druxey
    That cross-chock is one of the trickiest bits to do. Looks like you are beating it into submission!
  6. druxey
    An interesting assortment! Many of the models seem to be sailor-made.
  7. druxey
    Of course, one could also wrap them to protect them from damage or be a little more careful! Just sayin'....
  8. druxey
    I'll rise to the bait -again. My limited understanding is that conservators' wax (Renaissance) is pH neutral so should not deteriorate line like beeswax (acidic) will do in time.
  9. druxey
    Perseverance also helps. On my first framed model, the cant frames were torn out and replaced four times! After that experience, I was successful every first time. It's simply the learning curve - a steep one in this case.
  10. druxey
    The aesthetic may have changed, but also the height and protrusion of the knee of the head. Presumably the curve of the rails followed....
  11. druxey
    Nice carved statue, but I doubt whether it was ever a figurehead. It stands nicely on its pedestal.
  12. druxey
    Here's what I think happened with Victory. Originally the beakhead platform was flush with, and an extension of, the upper deck. The original head rails had a greater curve or 'bag', so the lowest part of the main rail was in line with the upper deck. At some point the headwork was replaced. The new head rails had a flatter curve. To make the gratings of the head flush and level with the rail, a platform was constructed over the fore end of the upper deck. The two plans shown above demonstrate my point.
  13. druxey
    Interesting catalog, Bruce! Unfortunately Nereus of 1821 is nothing like the model shown. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81806.html The style of the model in the catalog looks later 18th century, not 19th. The 1821 ship had 38 guns and was considerably less sleek! The model appears to look similar to Speedy of 1781, but the tiny ports make me suspect that this was a merchant vessel, not a naval one. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/84422.html
  14. druxey
    I agree that hand-stitched French rasps are amazing. I've had two Auriou rasps for many years. They are expensive but far out-perform any commercial mass-produced tool.
  15. druxey
    There is a dimensioned drawing on page 3 of the instructions, SkiBee.
  16. druxey
    With all due respect, the image looks more like a typical Revenue cutter of c.1800. However, as there is little hull detail, it's hard to say. I believe that Deal built cutters, heavy and clinker built, were the most common at this time.
  17. druxey
    Perhaps one of the Rochester area club model-makers might help you out.
  18. druxey
    Just catching up with your work. Looks like a promising start, Rob.
  19. druxey
    Looking very nice so far, Allan!
  20. druxey
    Nicely shown and done, Gary!
  21. druxey
    As most planks for a particular model are the same thickness, make a jig with two pieces the thickness of the plank apart and add a stop at one end. Slip in the plank , which is then held vertically, and use the small plane or sanding stick.
  22. druxey
    According to my calculations, the slot in the scuttle would only need to be about 7" long. Slainte!
  23. druxey
    The graphite metal looks very good on the photos, Eberhard.
  24. druxey
    That is one very substantial breast/deck hook on that drawing!
  25. druxey
    You may need to engineer a mechanism to work at that scale; a simplification of a full-sized latch, but with the correct external appearance.

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