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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Craig: Your schematic sketch is about right. Open so that the tall rudderhead can pass through (which is unusual), but perhaps there is a rudder coat around to prevent water coming up or going down and a hinged lid on the aft part, like the one just above in post #12.
  2. druxey
    Just catching up on your build, JD. It looks like it's going well. You can sometimes 'rescue' pin-holes - depending on specie of wood - by wetting the hole with water and a touch of dilute white glue. The moisture expands the fibers, and the glue closes things up.
  3. druxey
    That is a whole lot of beams! Lovely work.
  4. druxey
    Ha! So you are back with a vengeance, Clare. Your sail construction technique looks quite original, so I'm looking forward to how it will come together when complete. The idea of making a scratch-built model and placing it beside the unassembled kit is interesting as well.
  5. druxey
    Bravo!
  6. druxey
    Beautifully executed. I think what is bugging you is the size of the ball on the end of the anchor stock. It only needs to be large enough so that the stock won't slip through the shank. Otherwise, it looks very, very convincing.
  7. druxey
    Best wishes for a successful surgery, Alan. I recall seeing a 'take apart' model of a mast. I thought perhaps it was at Greenwich, but can find no photo of it. It must have been on display at the Science Museum, Kensington, before they rolled up the ship model section and put it away.
  8. druxey
    You have a great attitude! Part of the problem you have is that the hull form is a very full one with round bow. This is the most tricky shape to cover neatly, but it can be done. As you've discovered, there's lots of advice available here.
  9. druxey
    Do also read one of the planking tutorials on this site. It will help you get this planking business in perspective!
  10. druxey
    Lovely work as ever, Gary!
  11. druxey
    I think rubber cement to fix the paper pattern to plastic should work OK without issues of water-based adhesives. Lovely trailboard work!
  12. druxey
    Just make sure that the printout on the transparency is 100% without distortion! I used a marked stick laid along the centerline of the model to ensure that the beam spacing stayed on track.
  13. druxey
    The triangular section would accommodate the swing of the tiller heel and contain any water that was forced pas the rudder coat below. The aft part (colored blue) I agree would be storage space with a hinged lid, perhaps. These spaces would be separated by a divider, unless you go for the fresh halibut theory!
  14. druxey
    While the CNC results are unarguably excellent, they lack the irregularity and sharper edges of manually carved works. This, of course, is simply a personal observation and opinion. Manual carving seems, to me at least, more 'soul' in its imperfections. I suppose such idiosyncrasies could be programmed into CNC!
  15. druxey
    Using one's hands, although potentially dangerous, gives one a better 'feel' of how stock is feeding. I often rip two thirds the way through, then flip the board over to complete the cut so that my hands never get close to the blade. Still have all ten fingers!
  16. druxey
    Lovely scrollwork and moldings.
  17. druxey
    Had you considered two layers of 3" thick each at the bow? Much easier than bending a scale 6" piece! And, as you've observed, the end result of the 'cheat' is invisible. I'd imagine that lead would have rolled seams, just like leading on a church roof back then.
  18. druxey
    Thanks for the clarification, Mark. No slate, then. I guess what I took to be slate was lead covered with rectangular tin plates.
  19. druxey
    There was usually a shankpainter chain, not line.
  20. druxey
    I believe brick or slate tile was used. I doubt if bolts would have been necessary. Those stoves must have weighed a ton!
  21. druxey
    If you are proficient at PhotoShop, consider 'fading' the background image so that it doesn't distract while supporting the model. The image that you posted in #1334 would work really well if you de-saturated the colors. Just a thought, Steven.
  22. druxey
    Superb, Valeriy! And you are being modest.
  23. druxey
    The ensemble effect of the oarsmen is looking great, Steven!
  24. druxey
    Obviously your pewterer knew what he was about when he made the molds. Very nice castings.
  25. druxey
    Some days it's better to walk away from it.... Obviously today was one of them! A new start tomorrow.

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