druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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I agree with Martes; the coat is fitted using a drop shoulder seam to the back of the shoulder and separate pieces along a curved seam from the rear shoulder down: It give a very elegant line. You can just see the curved seams in the uniform coat photo. Darts in clothes were used once wider bolts of machine-made material became available.
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As impressive as ever!
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If the hands are too large - and perhaps the extended one of the standing figure might be - the head is rather small for the figure's height!
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You should be OK painting the filler. It may need sanding and repainting a few times to get a really smooth finish, though. For larger gaps a tube of wood filler (such as LePage's 'natural') is easier to handle and sand. It also dries faster! Looks like a nice job that you've done. You commented on the variation in wood. As it is a natural not synthetic material, any wood piece has its own peculiarities that you have to adjust your techniques to. We all experience this, whether kit or scratch builders.
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- Model Shipways
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Perhaps a dab of glue on the line before you cut it might help.
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At least the thief had really good taste.... Coming along well, Chris.
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Threaded rods are a much better option! And I don't recall that the original ship had permanent clamps....
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L'Amarante by marsalv - 1:36 - POF
druxey replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Beautifully framed! -
I completely agree with HH's remarks.
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I agree that high relief rather than 'in the round' would be more likely here. Your story-telling is as entertaining as your construction notes! I use a single point light source from beyond the piece I'm carving to throw the shadows in the correct direction. Diffuse light or from other directions is not helpful. Beautifully done!
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Beautifully done. Thank you for your comments on tagua nuts. I was given some many years ago but never tried cutting or carving it. Sounds tricky to use.
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The metal parts should first be spray primed before painting them (see post #19). This gives more 'grip' for the paint layer. Wood also benefits from priming first, as suggested.
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Uniform coat tails are now much better! Some buttons, perhaps? See: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-71256
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Nice going, as usual, Chuck. BTW, those are not pissdales, but the heads! I think one would want discharge tubes for sure....
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
druxey replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Eberhard; that is exactly why I never acquired a single roller rest! Pat: I hope the right cocktail of beta blockers can be found for you.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Good advances there, Mark! I made a considerable quantity of projection drawings for the stern galleries. (This was 30 years ago before the various computer graphic programs we now have were available!) I found the sane way was to expand in a single plane at a time. For instance, first correcting the tilt of the stern tier of lights, then flattening the round aft. Of course, you can do this in seconds and a few clicks now! Cheers, D
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Coming along nicely. Keep your pencil mark-out lines as thin as possible; a thick line can lead to poor fitting joints. A harder lead (3H or higher) will keep a much sharper point. A clutch lead holder and sharpener such as below is ideal for this kind of work.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
druxey replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Welcome back! An interesting approach, that. I've only seen single roller file guides. I can see the value of a double.- 993 replies
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I think so, Chris. The tails come to a little above the knee. Check contemporary full-length paintings.
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Late to this discussion, but it triggers memories of many years ago when I was building Polyphemus, 64 guns of 1782. I also had a time puzzling out this geometry - particularly the jog aft at quarter deck level. This is not immediately apparent in the sheer plan. It looks like "By George, he's got it!"
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John's advice is right on the mark. One of the great things about model building is that one is always learning and figuring out new or better ways to do things.
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Also, the length of the tailcoat?
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I'm thoroughly enjoying watching your progress on this model, Baker.
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Scale size questions
druxey replied to Desertanimal's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Yes, please stay sane. I can work to ½" a scale inch at 1:48 scale. That's 1/96" or just over 1/100". Not .005", for sure but that's the difference between the two states of mind.
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