druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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May I suggest not using tea? It is acidic and will eventually make the material brittle and crumble. A wash of either watercolor or acrylic paint is a much better choice. Andrew's sail ( Post #9) looks terrific!
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Making significant progress since I last looked in. Very nice, Hamilton! -
Well, it's authentic. They didn't have masking tape back in the day, did they? Looking terrific.
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Halò from the Highlands of Scotland.
druxey replied to Highlander's topic in New member Introductions
Dear Highlander, Forgive the pun? You obviously haven't read many posts here yet! Welcome aboard. -
Now, THOSE show her elegant lines to advantage! Thanks for posting them.
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Whereas I've rigged from back to front, bottom to top! Take your pick.
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Exemplary work as ever!
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Having recently made similar capstans, I know how much time and effort you've put into making yours!
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...and again.
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Just found your build log. Very nice work, Rik.
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Working hinge on the lantern as well! Wow!
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I'm late to the scene: very nice neat work and bending job!
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- Oyster Sharpie
- first scratch build
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Enjoy your holiday! Both models look very nice indeed.
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Research in the HMS Ulysses 1797, a Roebuck class ship
druxey replied to Kevin Kenny's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Interesting. However the frame looks far too 'fat'. Do you have scantlings for a 44-gun ship? -
As you've figured out, cutting tools have to be really sharp and don't try to cut off too much or deeply at a pass. Slow and steady does it. It helps to have a template of the rabbet profile aft at each station so you can see the changing turn of the rabbet. Hope Take Two goes better!
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Earlier question I missed on scupper support blocks: they are flush with the frames inside and out. The scupper hole is drilled through the planking and support blocks at the same time after planking. As for lofting frames, we all learn this on the job as we go!
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A fire boom was used to push off an attacking fire ship or burning debris.
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Congratulations on launching your new project, Eberhard. Lovely subject!
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I've used Titebond II successfully many times for veneering. The advantage is that the glue can be reactivated more than once by heat. Regular white glues can only be reactivated successfully once. That said, a properly spiled and pre-bent plank will stay in place with only about 30 seconds of finger pressure.
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Nonpareil, Chuck! Beautifully rendered.
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So the observations were written, not typeset, as I had assumed. Stag it is, then!
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I said it was a stretch, Rob! How about if the typesetter accidentally omitted the 'hound' in 'staghound'? More plausible?
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