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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Thank you, Jules. I suspected that the 11 divisions were for Amsterdam feet/inches, but the five divisions on the right end of the scale? What do they signify, please?
  2. druxey
    Nicely done, Siggi!
  3. druxey
    Sweet! Congratulations on a great finish.
  4. druxey
    This is an interesting thread, Jules. Could you explain the scales on the drawings that are divided into 11 and 5 parts, please?
  5. druxey
    Anyone who is serious about period rigging should have a copy of Lees' book as recommended by Allan. It is an invaluable help.
  6. druxey
    Yes, grain can change direction unexpectedly. But you'll be alert for that now.
  7. druxey
    What are you using for 'glass'?
  8. druxey
    48 hours? That must be an extremely high resolution!
  9. druxey
    Congrats on reaching the finishing line, Mark! Well done.
  10. druxey
    Good save! Also, with thin sections like that, cut with, not against, the grain. That can cause tear-out as well. 'Listen to the wood'!
  11. druxey
    Well adjusted, Sal!
  12. druxey
    Great subject, Chuck! And off to a good start.
  13. druxey
    Just catching up with you, Maury. She's looking lovely!
  14. druxey
    Mark: I stand corrected by your researched response. However, from a model making point of view, it's easier to add the stop than cut planking back neatly!
  15. druxey
    I'm surprised she didn't sail on April the first or December 25!
  16. druxey
    Port lids (not hatches) are flush to the outside planking when closed. There is a rebate in the sides of the port for the lids to shut against. The rebate is formed by a thin lining of wood over the frames and port sills.
  17. druxey
    I agree with Bob; an archaic non-standard spelling of 'tow'. And decaid is 'decayed' or worn out.
  18. druxey
    For crisp masking, flexible Tamiya tape is the best option that I've tried. Other tapes tend to leave a ragged line.
  19. druxey
    I've found heating the hacksaw steel to bright cherry red and air cool will soften it nicely. For the quantity of molding that I need to run the blade does not really need to be re-hardened, so don't bother with that process.
  20. druxey
    Well done!
  21. druxey
    Then the black plastic filament will do the trick for you, I think, and not cause problems later.
  22. druxey
    Might I suggest that iron is not a good idea to use in any model. It will rust and stain the wood over time. This can be seen in many old models. Use either chemically blackened brass or copper wire. Some model makers use black synthetic line.
  23. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Luis!
  24. druxey
    Welcome to the party, Stephane; bienvenue ici!
  25. druxey
    Sink looks great!

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