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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    One can wax the plug or cover it in Saran wrap to prevent sticking. I use a small brush to apply PVA accurately where needed. Anyway, well done, Allan!
  2. druxey
    Ah, the old story; dissertation writers' block.... If it's not too personal, what is the subject? Hopefully it is proceeding well. The model is coming along fine!
  3. druxey
    Half the scale, half the fun? 7½" to 8" wide planks seems about right. I might recommend lining out the planking first, Allan.
  4. druxey
    Bob: if you are in the U.S., the tool chests by Gerstner are great. Some years ago I got an old one (probably from the 1960's) that was a bit dilapidated and restored it. I loved it so much - and had more tools to store - that I got a second one! But we digress.
  5. druxey
    The width of the rabbet at the keel on the drawing may give a clue in absence of other information. Typically planking was ⅝" to 1½" thick, depending on the size of boat. 'Bottom' in May applies to all the bottom planks. Your 31' 0" longboat should have 1⅛" planks.
  6. druxey
    That is the one!
  7. druxey
    The grotesque heads (your 'mascarons') are spitting flames. There was a French ship named 'Crâche-feu': fire spitter. Very appropriate for a warship!
  8. druxey
    Ferrus manus: At such thickness - thinness, really - bending wood is the least of one's problems!
  9. druxey
    Even at scale thickness in 1:48 scale, wood planking is translucent. At 1:96 it would be virtually transparent! The suggestion of card might be a better option, unless you are painting the hull.
  10. druxey
    I still prefer the more oval shape of the 'originals', although the strop groove is more accurate on the CNC version. Take your pick!
  11. druxey
    I would agree with Mark: the birds are eagles. The 'faces' are stylised lions' heads.
  12. druxey
    Looks terrific, Aleksandr. The texturing really adds character and life to your replica.
  13. druxey
    Beautiful metalwork, as always!
  14. druxey
    Wilkommen, Cristian! Whatever you choose to build, you need to have a passion for it. Otherwise your motivation will diminish rapidly. Look at the range on the market (not elaborate 100-gun ships, but more modest subjects and choose on that appeals to you. Look at the Vanguard model line or Model Expo to begin with. There are some simple but challenging possibilities for you. Once you have built one or two models from kits you can assess whether you are ready for scratch building or not.
  15. druxey
    Perhaps weight and cost were factors in using wood?
  16. druxey
    Interesting form of steady, Alan. How often do you have to move it along?
  17. druxey
    Welcome back! Quite a fiddly detail.....
  18. druxey
    Take each relief carving one at a time. Looking at the whole tafferel load at once is rather daunting!
  19. druxey
    Don't you love those 'Ah ha' moments? It always amazes me that shipwrights did things a certain way and that there was always a logical reason behind it.
  20. druxey
    Well deserved, Vladimir! I'm pleased to see that your talent and work has been recognized.
  21. druxey
    Likewise, Adam!
  22. druxey
    Well done for tackling metalwork!
  23. druxey
    And it's nice to connect with like-minded folk who like to research and explore!
  24. druxey
    Part of any discrepancy is that Crocodile is from 1781 and Steel's tables were current some 20 years later. The Shipbuilder's Repository of 1788 does not, as Allan has mentioned, give any transoms below the deck transom, as per your draught. I'd definitely go with the 'as built' draught. BTW, Crocodile is a lovely subject to model.
  25. druxey
    I cut a series of grooves using the gouges and veiners in a piece of softwood, then load the grooves with green honing compound. Cheap!

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