druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Chuck: This was the correct terminology in the 18th century. The meaning of words changed over time. Camber only applied to a deliberate droop of a deck at the bow, otherwise the longitudinal curve, concave up, is sheer, as you wrote. Hope this clarifies things! -
HMS SUSSEX by KarenM - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to KarenM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
An impressive model indeed! Congratulations, Karen. -
Skid beams. There were fore and aft holes through the 'U' portion of the iron supports with a retaining pin on each end of the beam.
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Those look very neatly done. Just repeat after me; "I'm glad this isn't a 74 gun ship." There, isn't that better?
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So, in the last example, the upper quarter light is a dummy and the lower one partially so!
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As you may recall, the slightest contaminant, such as skin oil, will make a silver solder joint fail. There is more concern with making a joint 'stick' than fail! Even the slightest trace of oil or grease on the mandrel for your hoop should work.
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Fulmen is Latin for lightning.
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The lower and upper tier of Fulminant look deliberately shown at different angles. Odd, I agree, but deliberate!
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Try jewelers' supply houses for small chain in silver, which may easily be blackened. One example: https://www.firemountaingems.com/itemdetails/h204496ch
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Archaeological Paper on the Wreck of HMS Swift 1763
druxey replied to Steve20's topic in Nautical/Naval History
The differences between the 'as built' and actual vessel probably reflect changes made between launch and sinking. If one wished to make a model showing a later configuration, the only evidence might be some clue mentioned in the ship's log or Admiralty papers - if they still exist. -
Old eyes and shakey hands needs some advice
druxey replied to David Rice's topic in Wood ship model kits
I symapthize with your limitations. Certainly a larger scale and perhaps models that either do not require rigging or leaving a model unrigged will help. Good lighting is crucial as well. Best wishes as you find your way forward. -
Off to a good clean start!
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Beams were 'let down' into the clamps not to stop rolling(!), but to help lock them in place. If your clamps are at the correct height on both sides and you have the beam tops and bottoms beveled to the deck sheer, you need not let them down in a model unless you want the extra work!
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Your rigging is a standard we should all strive for.
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Do self-indulge us with your photos any time, Marc!
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Getting the long and short legs the right length was always an interesting exercise! You seem to have got it right the first time. Well done.
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How satisfying!
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Nice hack, Allan!
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Looks very nice, Alan. Make sure that the clamp heights are spot-on to prevent future frustration!
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Excellent result, Chris. It kind of begs for a setting.... Your Coyle's Law and Corollary are spot-on - unfortunately!
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Your arrangement of the bobstays is more convincing than the one on Victory where the third one attaches close to the waterline (second photo, post #1959). One, it would be exposed to the water too much and two, when at anchor the cable could rub and abrade it.
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Nice progress!
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That looks much more like it! Good save, Allan.
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That is what I would expect to see, Kris. Thanks for posting the comparison. 2 degrees is a figure that sticks in my mind.
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