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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Port lids (not hatches) are flush to the outside planking when closed. There is a rebate in the sides of the port for the lids to shut against. The rebate is formed by a thin lining of wood over the frames and port sills.
  2. I agree with Bob; an archaic non-standard spelling of 'tow'. And decaid is 'decayed' or worn out.
  3. I've found heating the hacksaw steel to bright cherry red and air cool will soften it nicely. For the quantity of molding that I need to run the blade does not really need to be re-hardened, so don't bother with that process.
  4. Then the black plastic filament will do the trick for you, I think, and not cause problems later.
  5. Might I suggest that iron is not a good idea to use in any model. It will rust and stain the wood over time. This can be seen in many old models. Use either chemically blackened brass or copper wire. Some model makers use black synthetic line.
  6. Welcome to the party, Stephane; bienvenue ici!
  7. Aaaand... you leaped on that challenge really promptly! Glad to see the cutter once again making headway. Well done, Michael.
  8. That's a sledge hammer for a finishing nail! Try watchmakers' slotting files and escapement files by hand for the best results when forming scratch molding tools.
  9. Syren Ship Model Company immediately springs to mind. https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/
  10. A suggested upgrade for the rope you need would be from the Syren Ship Model Company. Line about .035" or .045" in tan would be about right. See: https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/miniature-rope.php
  11. It was this model, with a flex-shaft takeoff at the side. A real beater! But, back to the subject. Philip Reed's books are excellent tutorials for making exquisite miniature models.
  12. Steaming right along there, Nils.... Not much space to turn her around in, though! Anything much larger would have to be a half-model.
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