druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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(Cleats are those little bumper-like projections on the front of the carriage cheeks,) -
What Roger suggested is what I do. Stretch SilkSpan on a frame wet and let it dry. It will then be drum tight and without wrinkles. Paint to taste with one or more coats of dilute acrylic paint. I actually paint the seams with thicker acrylic paint using an old fashioned bow pen. The blades are adjustable for line width. Ta da! For very small scales, pencil would be easier.
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Drying dilute white glue? Have you tried a hair dryer?
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- Model Shipways
- Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
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Keith; what a packrat you are! Those recycled floppy disk pieces made me laugh.
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It would be a pity to hide all that complex work! Very impressive, N.O.
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You don't have a wood stretcher in your workshop? Pity. Neither do I.
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Thank you, Craig!
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Can you say where this painting is from and a date? Looks about 1830 to 40 to my eye.
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Eyebolts were always partially embedded as Chuck has them. Nice work!
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Marking out the run of planking in bands using dark thread and white glue helps plan things, rather than hoping it will work out! Check out the primer on planking in the 'tutorials' section on this site.
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Check the photos in the instructions for how the rudder should look!
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- Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
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If square sterned, the modlel certainly represents a fir-built vessel.
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Coming along well! As for oxidation(?) I wonder whether the color change is due to air or exposure to light. Skin oils will mark wood, for sure. If a piece gets 'dirty', I clean it using isopropanol.
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Those open rails were perfect for securing lines around.
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Looking better and better. You might want to fill and sand the transom ends of the planks until you have a nice flush surface as well.
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I make the carling scores angled and then cut the ends of the carlings to a similar angle and trim carefully until they fit flush to the beam top.
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When I wrote earlier 'from the keel up' I did not mean that the keel itself was covered first; just the hull planking. Those plates were put on next to last, with a small flange over the keel/garboard to overlap the first row of hull plating. The very last was under the keel itself, with another overlap to the side keel plates.
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Narrow, not short, Alan. I forgot to add; accurate markout with a very sharp pencil is also critical for success!
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You need a marked out building board so that you can drop perpendiculars from the frame (or whatever) to the plan on the baseboard. I don't think there is any other way to get the frames placed exactly and symmetrically. You can see the maximum breadth line on the baseboard in the photo below.
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- ancre
- La Mahonesa
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I don't know Håkan's method, but I use miniature chisels. First, two diagonal stabbing cuts to define the two sides of the score, then shallow cuts to cut the score to depth. Once you've confidence practising on scrap, it is not that difficult to acheive.
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On British Naval ships, plating began at the keel upward and from aft forward. Upper and aft edges of the plates gave the overlap.
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