druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Taking shape quickly! And a lovely shape, too. -
Scraping moldings: some tricks I found helped me: 1) Glue the blank strip down on a solid backing piece. I use PVA white glue. This may be soaked off in 95% isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) when complete. 2) Make the strip no deeper than the deepest dimension of the finished molding. 3) Scrape lightly and gently. If you apply pressure, the scraper will wander with the wood grain. As the molding develops, you can add a bit more pressure. 4) When the blank edge of the scraper runs against the backing board, you are at the correct depth and the scraper will not bite in deeper.
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Lovely gratings, Alan. As long as the finished look is right, no-one will notice any little cheats along the way! I prefer to rubber cement my sandpaper to a flat surface rather than tape.
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That looks very sweet indeed, Mark! You might want to varnish or paint the lead to prevent future deterioration.
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For scuppers: My method (waterway in place) is, first accurate mark-out both inboard and out. Drill with a very small diameter bit from both sides. Hopefully the holes will meet - at least partially. Then progressively enlarge using larger diameter bits and needle files, making minor corrections as you go until you reach the diameter of the scupper. I've not drilled hawseholes in years. I file the half-holes in the hawse pieced before assembly. Again, I make them slightly under final size, then file them out once planking is complete.
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New member and brand new (Paper) modeller!
druxey replied to Marcel1981's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome aboard, Marcel! -
Please read the planking tutorial: chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf It will answer all your questions!
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Rubber cement will not distort paper or tracing vellum as will any glue with water content.
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All looks fair and square!
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There are several tutorials on this site on how to plank. Any of these will answer your question, as well as Chuck's contribution: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/
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3D Longboats in Blender
druxey replied to 3DShipWright's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Interesting discussion! BTW, 3DSW, I think you meant 'pinnace', not 'pinnacle'. Worn paintwork looks great. -
Never regret time lofting and drawing; if you did it correctly, the actual construction and fairing will be (comparatively) easy!
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Superb work, as ever!
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bolting frames onto keel
druxey replied to hamilton's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Another source is, of course, TFFM (The Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, The Fully Framed Model, SeaWatchBooks LLC.) -
Welcome aboard! Check the 'Important Ship Model Club News' area on this site: Model Shipwrights of Niagara. The meetings are online as well as in-person.
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Slight rounding of all corners on a boat are appropriate. You are dong a very nice job on the model so far.
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Railings?
druxey replied to hlong222's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Nice idea, SHJ, but no! The beams below the stachions and rail at the ends of forecastle and quarter deck were called the breast beams. -
Even dry docks would need a slight slope for drainage, would they not?
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Railings?
druxey replied to hlong222's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
In the 18th century British lexicon, railings at the ends of decks were referred to as 'breastwork'. -
And check out the reef points!
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I have an identical tack hammer. It is circa 1940 and was my father's. I still love using it; perfect heft and balance. But we digress.
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I've also had this problem to solve. I cut a blank, longer than the finished ellipse, and PVA glued it to a backing block. This reduced the chance of breakage cross-grain. I then very carefully scratch molded the section. After soaking the piece off the backing, I was able to cut the joints with the straight sections of the moldings. If there are any 'tricks' to this, a really good piece of boxwood is needed and patience while running the molding along it.
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HMS VICTORY 1765 by albert - 1/48
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I've seen both closed and open varieties in contemporary models. The closed balcony balustrade would be stronger. -
A very effective solution at small scale!
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