druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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What type of ship and era are you most interested in, Frank? Also, kit, semi-scratch or fully scratch built? That would help define the question. -
Lovely work, Amalio. What is that last photo?
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Just catching up with you, Daniel. Very neat and nicely done!
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HMS RESOLUTION 1667 by KarenM
druxey replied to KarenM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Coming along nicely. The slot for the lion figure needs to allow for the two-way taper of the knee of the head. It is not slab parallel sided. -
Rejoice, folks! Let your joy be unbounded!
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Lovely piece of fabrication. Thanks for sharing your process with us.
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I believe that breeching rope was made from previously used line that had already been stretched.
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Yes, Richard Endsor's excellent books are from the 1670 to 1690 period - about a century earlier. Look at some of SeaWatchBooks' offerings that cover the 1760 to 1790 time period. There were excellent articles on 18th century ship construction by David White in Model Shipwright years ago. They appeared in issue numbers as follows: On Traditional wooden shipbuilding: 47, 49. 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63 Understanding ships' draughts: 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 58
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Concerning the low/lack of bulwarks on the quarter deck, there would have been stanchions with man-ropes along the sides there.
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And the different Speedwell draughts also are inconsistent in detail. You pays yer money and takes yer choice....
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A synthetic substitute is the obvious choice to avoid any problem!
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I am aware of an antique ship model with ivory steering wheel and capstan. These pieces had to be removed before the model was allowed to be exported! They were reunited much later, but that is another story.... Please do not enquire!
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Lovely work, Chuck, but what the heck is that officer doing forward in the galley? Warming his hands?
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Bragozzo by maurino - FINISHED
druxey replied to maurino's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
It's so nice to see seldom modeled subjects. The Adriatic ships are very colorful, as are other many other Mediterranean vessels. -
Formidable! Just catching up on your beautiful build. Lovely work!
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Beautifully done, Valeriy.
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Thukydides: I just paint the outer edges of the joint on one side. The majority of the joint remains wood/glue/wood.
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Very well done indeed, Steve! Congratulations on a complete (I almost wrote 'string') quartet. Now you have the skills for even more advanced models. What's next?
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Setting up deadeyes to shrouds
druxey replied to Lost and Confused's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Yes. The cut splice in the swifter is slipped over the masthead. Place the upper deadeye on one side where you want it, remove the swifter and turn the deadeye in. While on the bench, it is easy to position the second deadeye on the other leg of the swifter. -
Setting up deadeyes to shrouds
druxey replied to Lost and Confused's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I appreciate your problem - we've all been through this at one time or another! There are a number of ways to deal with this. Ideally there is a small amount of stretch in the shrouds that will allow for micro-adjustment. However, don't overdo it or either the lanyard will give way or the mast will pull out of line. For the main part of the process I will loop the end of the shroud up (once it is in place over the masthead) until the bottom of the loop is at the level you want the deadeye to be. (A bit of water on a brush applied to the shroud at the bend will help it behave.) I then secure the deadeye in this loop with a spot of glue. Take the shroud off again and complete the lashings around the deadeye on the bench rather than in the air. Then re-install the shroud pair and reeve the laniard. Other folk will doubtless provide you with other remedies. One size doesn't fit all - try them until you find one that works for you. -
Aleksandr: I just rotate the gouge without moving it sideways at the same time. That is asking for trouble! Just rotating it in a groove the right size in the wood wedge does it. The wear is evenly distributed and the tool remains at right angles.
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I've been honing the chisel blades on very fine grit (1500) carborundum paper by rubbing the back of the blade. The gouges are more problematic. I made a small angled wood block to maintain correct angle and roll the gouge over the paper. It's not perfect, but acceptable.
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Looking very good, Toni. It helps to use your chisel bevel down to control depth of cut when eight-squaring the spar.
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I've used many different methods over the years. I began with black tissue, graduated to Allan's paint/PVA mix, and now use dark brown acrylic paint (burnt umber) along the outer (show) edges of joints on one side before gluing up. I find black a little too visually contrasty, but that's a personal preference. For minor seams such as planking, soft pencil along the show edge does the trick for me. Try different methods until you settle on the one(s) that you like.
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