druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Beautifully done. Thank you for your comments on tagua nuts. I was given some many years ago but never tried cutting or carving it. Sounds tricky to use. -
The metal parts should first be spray primed before painting them (see post #19). This gives more 'grip' for the paint layer. Wood also benefits from priming first, as suggested.
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Uniform coat tails are now much better! Some buttons, perhaps? See: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-71256
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Nice going, as usual, Chuck. BTW, those are not pissdales, but the heads! I think one would want discharge tubes for sure....
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
druxey replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Eberhard; that is exactly why I never acquired a single roller rest! Pat: I hope the right cocktail of beta blockers can be found for you.- 993 replies
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Good advances there, Mark! I made a considerable quantity of projection drawings for the stern galleries. (This was 30 years ago before the various computer graphic programs we now have were available!) I found the sane way was to expand in a single plane at a time. For instance, first correcting the tilt of the stern tier of lights, then flattening the round aft. Of course, you can do this in seconds and a few clicks now! Cheers, D
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Coming along nicely. Keep your pencil mark-out lines as thin as possible; a thick line can lead to poor fitting joints. A harder lead (3H or higher) will keep a much sharper point. A clutch lead holder and sharpener such as below is ideal for this kind of work.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
druxey replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Welcome back! An interesting approach, that. I've only seen single roller file guides. I can see the value of a double.- 993 replies
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I think so, Chris. The tails come to a little above the knee. Check contemporary full-length paintings.
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Late to this discussion, but it triggers memories of many years ago when I was building Polyphemus, 64 guns of 1782. I also had a time puzzling out this geometry - particularly the jog aft at quarter deck level. This is not immediately apparent in the sheer plan. It looks like "By George, he's got it!"
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John's advice is right on the mark. One of the great things about model building is that one is always learning and figuring out new or better ways to do things.
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Also, the length of the tailcoat?
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I'm thoroughly enjoying watching your progress on this model, Baker.
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Scale size questions
druxey replied to Desertanimal's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Yes, please stay sane. I can work to ½" a scale inch at 1:48 scale. That's 1/96" or just over 1/100". Not .005", for sure but that's the difference between the two states of mind. -
Scale size questions
druxey replied to Desertanimal's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
That's a great question. The best plans are drawn with hair's width lines.This minimises the issue that you mention. Of course, in CAD you can magnify to a size that will drive you crazy! If you want to go the CAD route, might I suggest that the base drawing be redrawn from the 'fat line' plan first, then imported? There will always be some compromises, or you will lose your mind. -
A damp brush gets nicely into corners to remove dust.
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Scale size questions
druxey replied to Desertanimal's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
A good ol' fashioned scale rule works for me most of the time! -
Just imagine where any rub or wear points might be. Edges of the gunwale would be an obvious area, for instance.
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I apologise for the tardy response ( to post #409), Steven, but I've been under the weather for most of the past month and am only just now catching up with you. You figured out what I used, I see; acrylic matt medium. If you need to dampen the sail to shape it, the bolt rope won't come undone like it woudld if you had used PVA. Great progress since I last looked in, and it was nice to see a civilised discussion and gentlemanly disagreement, unlike some other threads I've seen elsewhere! As for anchor design; would there have been much if any change between the 12th and 14th centuries? My instinct is to use the slightly later design as your starting point.
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Nice, Chuck, and theoretically foolproof!
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A very methodical approach, Keith! The hull shape is a very 'easy' one, so should require very little if any plank wrangling.
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Well, that's an interesting change of pace! Thanks for the update.
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Nice subject, Chris. And the prototype looks very impressive!
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The color you show does look too intense. Even if this was what was used, it should be tinted (lightened) at scale size to look right.
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