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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Nice to see you back at it, John.
  2. druxey
    Read some of the planking tutorials that are 'pinned' on this site, such as Antscherl's 'Primer on Planking'. These should answer your questions, Don.
  3. druxey
    That is the 64,000 dollar question. Volume I was many, many years in the making. It could be as long until Volume II appears. I do agree that Volume I is a very valuable source of information.
  4. druxey
    Lovely, Ben!
  5. druxey
    And the season's greetings to you as well, Dick. I look forward to seeing how you solve the half deck issue.
  6. druxey
    Heat alone will not expand the wood - humidity will.
  7. druxey
    A rheostatically controlled soldering iron and moisture works for me on Castello boxwood, aka S.A. Boxwood.
  8. druxey
    What specie of wood are you using?
  9. druxey
    I suppose you will need to balance 'conservation' with 'restoration' on those lines. I'd be inclined to replace the obvious bad repairs and line that are not original to the model. You will still have the photographic record of them anyway. Does your client have an opinion on this?
  10. druxey
    Neatly done. Are you happy with the color match now?
  11. druxey
    Looking forward to seeing the completed case, Mike! Happy holidays.
  12. druxey
    I'm sorry to read of your experiments and trials. I can't answer your question as to whether the planking can be saved, but suggest that any time you want to try out a new finish, do it on scrap wood first. It will save you having to face this situation ever again.
  13. druxey
    No dumb question: is the glue water and heatproof? If not....
  14. druxey
    Acrylic resin? Stable wood is a nice thought, but how much vacuum might be needed?
  15. druxey
    Keith: you have a good point there! Although the draw-back is that a good single malt is very expensive in Canada. Michael: If the line is stiff I find a little water on it where it reeves through the block softens it temporarily to mold and 'sit down' nicely where it enters and emerges. And water is a good deal cheaper than a 25 year old Macallan.... Jim: I'd use microcrystalline wax rather than beeswax. The latter is acidic, the former pH neutral.
  16. druxey
    It's called a top, not a thimble, Michael. Can you modify the shade of the line with dilute watercolor? Tea will eventually rot fiber.
  17. druxey
    Planks usually thin to the width of the stem rabbet. Sure will help!
  18. druxey
    Yes, humidity change will do that. Keep the place humidified once you get heat back and the wood should expand again. Slightly higher humidity in winter will be better for your respiratory health as well!
  19. druxey
    All you need is a ply sheet with the correct shape cut out and mounted at the correct height on a building board. The model sits vertically inside the cut-out.
  20. druxey
    Copper is described as 'ductile' and will stretch a good way before reaching (and exceeding!) its elastic limit.
  21. druxey
    Good to see you back!
  22. druxey
    Ah! I see you were able to move Albertic safely to your new home. Looking forward to your progress reports, Michael.
  23. druxey
    Welcome back, Gary! It's nice to see your beautiful model beginning to progress again. Nice workbench too!
  24. druxey
    Seriously methodical!
  25. druxey
    Ideally internal stringers would solve the issue (while still retaining the cross-spalls) However, in your case perhaps an external jig will be required to maintain hull form until you can install stringers and permanent cross-members.

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