druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Nice. You'll be finished framing in no time now! -
If you look at the forecastle deck plan above, you will see that the deviation of the upper deck beam is to allow the long ends of the spanshackle bolts to pass down through the upper deck beam to be forelocked below it. You may wonder why the beam wasn't simply a regular straight one placed slightly further forward. The outer ends are placed closer to beneath gun port #2 for support.
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Beam Arms
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You are partly correct, Meddo. The other reason is reinforcement for the main mast partners immediately aft of them. -
I've just looked at a handwritten contract for a sixth rate (1775) and the phrase 'iron stair cases' is included in the rubric. As this was not a regular fighting ship (see dafi's suggestion above), it strengthens my thought that this refers to the railing around the companion openings.
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Aiee! What a complex set of procedures to carry out, Ed. I would have been strongly tempted to simplify and fudge those blocks at that scale. My hat is doffed to you, Sensei!
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The speculation sounds plausible, Wayne! Certainly iron stanchions and rails were used for safety to surround three sides of a companion coaming on, say, the quarter deck. Contemporary models show these.
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Thanks for the rest of your back-story as you worked against the clock, E & T!
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Silly question: are the stirrups for the footropes long enough? They should hang about 3' 0" below the yards. Unless ship is manned by midgets, of course. (No offence meant to the height-challenged.)
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Those would be very 'compassy' timbers then!
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That seems like a reasonable assumption, Mark. It's certainly a new term for me! Thank you for posting the actual examples of this. I do note the provision "as shall be directed", implying that this might be a catch-all phrase preceding those words.
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ancre Chebece 1750 by Jeronimo - FINISHED
druxey replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I can only echo what has already been written: beautiful and precise! -
The Berwick draught is a very interesting drawing. Those 'extreme' hanging knees shown on the gun and upper decks must surely be iron - they appear to be considerably less than a foot wide, judging from the scale in the upper right. The standards on the upper deck are wider and must be wood. I was also looking at the knee of the head: all the joints are tabled ones. That would be a modelling challenge!
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Looking lovely, Mike. Ignore those jealous comments about how good your work and photography is!
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They would be unlikely all cut to the same length, as A) the shift of butts have to be taken into account and all butts must land in the middle of a frame. As for the aft end of the wale, for wood economy it might have been something like I've sketched. What do you think?
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I assume the swivel helped level the yard when the ship was heeled.
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As long as you shift the butts properly in correct sequence, you should be all right.
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Sweet! She is looking very nice indeed, Rusty.
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A beautiful demonstration of how far the yard can be braced around using the yoke and swivel arrangement. Nice, Ed!
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Don't rely 100% on masking tape to prevent bleeding of dye! For wales, I dye them before applying other planking. To dye to a line (for instance on a mast), I cut a stop-line in the wood with a new scalpel blade. This prevents wicking of dye through the end grain to where I don't want it. Practice on scrap to see this simple but effective technique.
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Jet or Dewalt scroll saw
druxey replied to Anguirel's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I've used an almost vibration-free DeWalt 778 successfully for 15 years. (Sorry, Brian!) I'm very happy with its performance. It is a variable speed machine. It's not clear whether the Jet offers this very useful feature. Foe instance, one can cut acrylic successfully at very slow speed without melting the plastic to the blade. -
If drawing mechanically, use a paper strip. You can pivot it about your pencil point as you move the strip around a curve, deriving a pretty accurate 'real' length in this manner.
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Are you sure? Is it handwritten or part of the printed form?
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Beautifully rendered, Igor. Also, the construction is interesting. Well done!
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I use bamboo for treenail production. I split and draw it down dry. As described above, use the layer just under the glassy outer layer. As one goes further down inside, the material becomes soft and fuzzy. And yes, using parallel pliers to draw the bamboo minimizes - but does not entirely eliminate - crushing.
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