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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Sunbeki by palandoken - FINISHED - 1/60
druxey replied to palandoken's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Even if Google Translate is poor, the model is lovely. Well done, Adam! Google Translate zayıf olsa bile, model güzeldir. Aferin, Adam! -
Alas, there's no substitute for actual spiling! BTW, I just pop the plank in my vise and sand the edges that way. Your solution is far more elegant!
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As a professor of mine years ago observed, "If it works, it works." I hope your health is back now, John, and we'll see further progress on Meteor in May.
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Spariate's lines can be seen (as re-fitted by the British) at: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/80515.html
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SJSoane (Mark) is absolutely 'right on' with his observations and advice.
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Practice with a well-sharpened edge. Miniature joints should not need a mallet! If your chisel is sharp enough, it should make a crisp apple-cutting sound. I use my thumbnail to incrementally cut back to the joint line. Line the chisel up against the wood edge, place your nail against the back of the blade. Move your thumbnail back a thou or two, lift the chisel until the back touches your nail again and cut. This gives a high level of control. After some practice you can sense when the chisel is truly vertical.
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If you can afford them, go with Veritas. Vintage chisels may have been misused in many various ways and you simply don't know their history. You may do well on eBay, but.... Regardless of source, proper sharpening is the essential thing.
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A thin coat of gesso first will seal the surface so that the paint coats aren't absorbed. (Regular household acrylic primer will do!)
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That is Continental Danish practice, Michael. Different countries had different building styles, so that although there are similarities, some details would not apply to British ships.
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The most entertaining build I've seen; both for the participants as well as this viewer!
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Brush painting is not necessarily bad. Think of old-time coachpainters and the 'coachpainter's finish'. This was achieved with time and patience. A coat of paint, Dry for a minimum of 24 hours, rub down, repeat. It could take 10 coats or more, the last few being rubbed down with pumice powder, then finally with rottenstone. Been there, done it, on a harpsichord case. The results can be amazing if you take sufficient time and care. Or, you could just take the hull to your local autobody shop....
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Glad you have the courage to revise this, Doris. Dobri!
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- 5
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- royal katherine
- ship of the line
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
druxey replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
A small but irritating point: I made the same error on a model some years ago. The netting for stowing the sail is incomplete. The illustration we referred to only shows the first stage of creating the netting, the zig-zag part. A more experienced modeler pointed this out to me. The second stage is to tie alternating pairs of those longitudinal threads together (I used fine fly-tying line) to form diamond-shaped netting. It was fiddly and tedious work, best done on a jig off-model. But perhaps you didn't want to know this! However, you are doing such a lovely job on your rigging I thought I'd mention it.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
druxey replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
How come I missed this until now? You are doing a lovely job on her, Pat. I'll enjoy continuing to follow your progress.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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The illustration form Falconer you posted is correct. The rails are over the planking. Steel (1805) stated that the rails were raised (cut directly) from plank in merchant ships, but not on naval ones.
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You obviously have had much too much fun, Dan. Now, back to Michaelangelo! Seriously, the populated model looks great. Well done.
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- michelangelo
- ocean liner
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I do not know why for certain, but imagine that a naval ship could more easily be repaired if the rails were not part of the planking. Merchant ships were not usually involved in fleet actions! The model photos show the rail directly on the frame only because the model-maker wanted to show it while leaving off planking to show the frames as well. I hope this clears up any confusion.
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UPDATE: The Hayling book is on its way now. Here is a sneak preview of the cover: For anyone interested, the original model featured here is still for sale. It has now been professionally appraised and the asking price adjusted accordingly. Terms are available. If seriously interested please PM me for further details.
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A poor excuse for neglecting Michaelangelo, Dan! Seriously, that is from the sublime to the ridiculous in terms of size and scale. At least you didn't have to clean off a 1/16" layer of sticky barn deposits as I just did from a model - a real hazmat situation! You have an interesting mix of sophisticated and primitive work on the Z. Pike model. Was it all made by the same hand?
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- michelangelo
- ocean liner
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Shellac itself is not a problem, Mark. It is the solvent required to dissolve it for application. This is usually methyl hydrate; volatile, flammable, and toxic to the central nervous system. 'Nuffsaid.
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