druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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That is a valuable window into those times and places. Please preserve it carefully and perhaps transcribe the contents for a wider audience.
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Coming along very nicely, Chuck! -
Well (re)done, Alan! She is going to be a lovely model.
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Very impressive - especially the aft end of the clamp!
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Often Rube Goldberg (U.K. model-makers, read Heath Robinson) arrangements with rubber bands and wood wedges are a useful work-around when conventional clamping is impossible.
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The drawing implies a planked area between tafferel and fife rail above. Usually you can see counter timberheads extending up if that area were open. The draught is 'as launched', so I would take that as the way she actually was.
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The 'narrow strakes' are called ribbands. Where they curve sharply at the bow and stern they are cut to shape they are termed harpins. These are temporary battens to secure the framing until the planking is hung. Generally, they follow the lines of the floor and futtock joints and run a few feet above and below them.
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Relax, Paul. It is a shipyard, after all.
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I just use sanding sticks very carefully once the whole port has been planked all around. They are extra-long so that the far end rests against the opposite port opening. The edges of the sanding stick are beveled back so I can get right into the corners.
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Yes, wood movement can be a problem. Can you humidify in winter and dehumidify in summer to keep the RH reasonable constant? That stain looks like a water-stain. If it will be exposed in the finished model you could try to damp sponge it off. Lovely work on that wale!
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Dear Dick, you wrote: "I fear that a nautical academic would regard my model as a good speculative decorative model and no more." Yes, there is speculation involved, but it's based on your research and reasoning, so I disagree - it IS more! I think many of us are awaiting the findings in the Black Sea cache with interest. In the meantime, I think you are doing a fine job.
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For a 'non-carver', those tafferel figures are really very respectable! I wish my first carving efforts had looked anywhere as good as those!
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Coming along nicely, Mark. It just occurred to me (duh!) that one could install the black strake first; then one would not need to remove the batten above the wale.
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Neatly done, Maurys. "Anti-fraying liquid"? Is this a secret formula concocted in your laboratory?
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Good to see you back. That first photo make you look as if you live in - oh, yes, you do live Down Under! Those figures look great now they are painted.
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Well, one opinion, for what it's worth: ratlines are part of the standing rigging, therefore are tarred. It's possible that sailors' hands and feet acquired some of this stuff when climbing the rigging, so were referred to as - wait for it! - 'tars'.
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Joints eventually 'read' through either paint or dye, due to seasonal wood movement. I wouldn't be too concerned about accentuating the joints.
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Well done, Mark.
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Using Holly for decks
druxey replied to Jim Rogers's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You raise an interesting question, Jim. Holly decks are a model-makers' convention. Another convention that does not reflect 'real' ships is ebony for false keels. Yet another is using black line for standing rigging. These styles were begun by well-known model-makers and then copied by many others. And so it continues. Personal taste comes in to play here. Some prefer a stylized look to their models. Others prefer a 'realistic' appearance to their models, including wear and weathering. You, as the maker, have to please yourself (unless you are building on commission for a client). There are no absolute right or wrongs. -
Just catching up with your build(s), Paul. Very nice work!
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