druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Liebe Archnav, Perhaps a small sketch will help me understand better what you mean by "the distance of the end of the outside planking to the port on the surface of the frame, and the same distance from the topside of the planking beneath the port on the surface of the lower sill." I'm glad we agree on the 'bumper' issue! Similar fittings, but with a central hole, were used with 'inside principle' carronade mounts for the traverse pins. Mit grusse -
So, if I understand correctly Archnav, you think that the port lid thickness was 3 1/2" and the inner layer of the lid was 1 1/8" thick? Diving into Caruana, he refers to the 1795 pattern carriage as having projecting 'horns' from the front of the brackets (side pieces) at the height of the lower sill (Volume II, page 379 et seq). These acted as a kind of bumper. The official title was a "breast ended preventer cleated" carriage. One may then presume that the bumper/stop beam/preventer piece seen across the lower edge of Colossus' port is a fore-runner of this later development.
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My! That is a lot of 'ironwork' to manufacture, Ed! Beautifully done, too.
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Here's my (limited) understanding. The port stops mentioned in Steel (Folio XXV) are 3 1/2" thick. As the measurements given of the stops for other large ships range from 3 1/2" to 3", I doubt that it is a misprint. A substantial stop would make sense for watertightness in rough seas. After all, the freeboard was only about 6' 0". But to me, the interesting part are the battens on each side of the port. I agree that they must be for boards to slot into. Steel's tables (Folio XXVI) call for Well seasoned linings fitted into the stops, thick 1 1/8" (for a 74 gun ship). I'd long wondered what 'linings' were. Those must be the 'washboards' in this discussion!
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Roger's suggestion is also a good one. White or yellow glue can be used, soluble in isopropanol; or rubber cement, soluble in naphtha.
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Perhaps 'stop beam' is a misleading term. Perhaps 'bumper' or 'cushion' might better distinguish it from confusion with a port stop.
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Bent top frames
druxey replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
It's OK, Kurt. Some of us take just a little longer to get there! The important thing is to arrive. -
However, the point of origin of the laser will have to be precisely aligned with the point on the draught, as well as be horizontal and at right angles to the plane of the draught, as well as the draught precisely in line with the model, which will need to be precisely parallel to the draught.... Aaaagh!
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Bent top frames
druxey replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The rule was that you can't cut into the sides of the timbers and thus weaken them to make a gun port. So, the toptimber is either offset on the futtock below (shifted) or cut dog-legged (cast) in order to make the side frame of the port above. -
Whichever specie of wood, extremely sharp tool edges are critical to success. Once you need to use blade pressure on small sections, they will break off or crumble if the tool isn't sharp enough.
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That's about it, Gaetan. The ray from any point must be normal to its point of origin. And the projected target at right angles to the ray point.
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SOLEIL ROYAL 1669 by michel saunier
druxey replied to michel saunier's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Magnifique, monsieur! That looks terrific, Michel. -
If you can get the kind of prices suggested above for a kit, good luck!
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Glad that you did plank the counter first, Mark! It was invisible in your previous post. This sequence saves a lot of aggravation. And yes, it is much easier to deal with things when the model is inverted.
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Apart from drafting errors, there are almost always issues with prints on paper. Paper movement, distortion in reproduction processes, gremlins; all come into play. The only sane solution is to re-draft on Mylar film and correct everything as you do so.
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Silly point perhaps, but I've always found it easier to plank the counters first before completing the wale, as the latter overlaps the former.
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Yes, a large section of Colossus' starboard quarter side survived underwater, more or less intact, including the large quarter figure now being conserved. What is your comment or question on port stops, Archnav?
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Like Carl, I doubt if projection will give accurate results. Too bad; it would save a lot of time! Even projecting on to a flat surface will result is a degree of distortion due to lens. This will only get worse when projecting onto to a curved surface. I've used threads for some years to line off planking runs. They are easy to view and to adjust, unlike wood battens.
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Half hull models are certainly a valid expression of ship modelling, Rob. I'm interested that you are making these at such a relatively small scale.
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Good to see you back, Doris. Those decks look great.
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Cheery wood?I like that! Seriously, the backbone looks good. And yes, those are 'Harris cut' joints on the false keel.
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Petersson, while good, is specific to a particular ship model. No line or block sizes are given, and are in any case for a larger ship than a sixth rate.
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Terry: that is an excellent photo of the capstan. It should be easy to develop scale drawings from this if plans are not available. Assume the shorter man is about 5' 5" and the taller one 6' 2" and go from there.
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