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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    You will have better control and results if you clamp the drawplate and use both hands to pull the material through.
  2. druxey
    Nice going, Mike. Every model we build teaches us more!
  3. druxey
    Coming along beautifully, Albert! Merry Christmas indeed.
  4. druxey
    Check the pinned planking tutorials on this site.
  5. druxey
    Merry Christmas, Maury!
  6. druxey
    Looks like things are moving now, Ben! Merry Christmas and happy modelmaking.
  7. druxey
    Almost fully automated modelling, hjx! My only concern would be the amount of scrap wood generated. Could one move the pieces closer together to mill them out?
  8. druxey
    Looking lovely, Chuck. My own method of avoiding 'hourglassing' is to tie every tenth ratline first, then every fifth, then third and lastly the remaining alternate ones. You can see right away if things start to pull in and it's easy to correct. Season's best wishes to you and the family.
  9. druxey
    Frohliche Weinachten also, Christian!
  10. druxey
    The result will depend on your thread size. You will need to make up a trial length of line and measure its diameter. This (at scale size), x 3.1416 will give you the line size.
  11. druxey
    Now, that is a novel way of drilling out the hawseholes! You mill-men!
  12. druxey
    A very happy holiday season to you, Kevin. You are nearly there with the framing!
  13. druxey
    Thanks for all the pleasant moments you've given me this year each time you've posted progress, Ed. The latest on the top is great: I had no idea that there were so many fairleads through one of these. Lovely, simply lovely work.
  14. druxey
    Lovely work, Roger!
  15. druxey
    When there are an odd number of shrouds, the first has a cont spllce in it over the mast head so one leg goes to port and the other to the starboard side. The Burton pendants have to go on first (also cont spliced) or how can one haul up that first heavy shroud to the mast head?
  16. druxey
    Be aware that there are two editions of this book. The second edition is expanded and has even more fascinating stuff in it. Second edition is available at SeaWatchBooks, linked on this site.
  17. druxey
    You'll find that, after a year or two, the plank seams will 'read' a little through the paint. She's looking lovely.
  18. druxey
    If the wood is well seasoned, it should not warp. I let my foursquare sticks sit a few days after sawing them, just to be sure. If a blank develops a slight curve, it is taken care of when I mark out the centerline and the tapers before forming the foursquare taper.
  19. druxey
    First, the lines of the frames are my guide. Also, I use a paper strip as a straightedge to run light pencil lines where needed.
  20. druxey
    Lovely work, Mark. When bending the beading with heat, did you try dampening the wood first? That might solve the brittleness issue.
  21. druxey
    Very impressive rigging work at that scale, Dafi!
  22. druxey
    Mark out first, then prick the spots with a sharp point. That way the drill point won't 'wander' off the marks.
  23. druxey
    Beautifully done, Ed! The half-laps in particular are excellent.
  24. druxey
    It takes a while to finesse things so they look good from all angles. It's worth taking the time to do it right.
  25. druxey
    I think that's the way this was usually done, Maury. Take a look at Ed's Young America. I know it's a different era, but is similar.

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