druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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IMHO most models show an exaggerated pattern: usually too raised and prominent. Actual examples (Cutty Sark, Victory, etc) show nail heads virtually flush with the plates. -
Your experiments look very effective, Daniel. Try using acrylic paint with a ruling pen to get the seam doubling with less transparency and see what you think. I've used this very effectively at a much larger scale (1:48) on SilkSpan. One needs to pre-stretch any paper as one would for watercolor paper to avoid sags and wrinkles when wetted. Also, Silkspan won't tear when wet.
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So nice to see you back and the terrific progress you are making. Interesting shellac/silk technique that you've used, Glenn.
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ancre Le Fleuron by juzek - 1:27
druxey replied to juzek's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
You are moving along there! Looking excellent, Juzek. -
A Forstner drill bit will give smoother cuts, I think.
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- kaiser wilhelm der grosse
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For some reason I've only just stumbled across your log. Very neat work indeed. Please assume a 'like' has been added to every progress report!
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Beautiful and precise. Nice to see you back at work on her, Alex!
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I can only hope that the various forces tending towards warping cancel each other out. If not, you'll have a gondola!
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Thanks, Wefalck, for your description of Pertinax. All I could find was the Roman emperor of that name!
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What is Pertinax made of, please? Looks like an interesting and useful material. Nice work!
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The garboard should not rise up the stem like that. See the planking tutorials (pinned) on this site. Revising this will get rid of those pointy-ended strakes and drop strakes!
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I believe that the reef points were a little longer on the aft side of the sail.
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There are one or two minor items I'd debate Mr. Ensor over. One is his illustration of nibbed deck planking forward. I suspect that chocked joints rather than scarphs were adopted once really good first growth compass timber was becoming scarce.
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The other consideration of discontinuous framing without fillers between the frames up to the floorheads was drainage of bilgewater. To pump the ship reasonably dry, holes would need to be cut though the underside of the floors to allow a continuous passage to the bilge pumps. The later system of a passage above the frames would - theoretically, at least - keep the bilge much drier.
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See also the thread: "Fabric for your sails and where to buy?"
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Hmm. I think that The Restoration Warship by Richard Ensor will have what you need, Allan. It covers the construction of Lenox, 70 guns of 1677-8, and is well researched, in amazing detail.
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There is nothing wrong with soaking planks, provided you leave adequate time for them to dry out again before final fitting and attachment to the hull. Most of us lack the patience to wait, is the issue!
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ancre Le Fleuron by juzek - 1:27
druxey replied to juzek's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
All those frames hung up like washing on a line! Great progress. -
Allan: I believe that part of the issue with Longridge's Victory model was damp storage underground during WW2, and subsequent drying out in the museum.
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