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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Dafi: on reflection, you are correct: bilgewater would not be suitable. However, now I recall seeing a cross-sectional drawings of a ship showing inlets and pipes below the waterline for drawing in fresh seawater. These had brake pumps with outlets for each deck, not chain pumps.
  2. druxey
    Why would you not use PVA (white) glue?
  3. druxey
    Lovely looking already, even with the Irish pennants! Sorry that some of your splices failed. Glad you were able to do a catch and save.
  4. druxey
    You are done, Frank? I'm disappointed - no more progress reports. Anyway, congratulations on an excellent result.
  5. druxey
    Ingenious and simple, JMS! Whatever method you use, ratlines are a slow job.
  6. druxey
    I suspect that the limbers were cleared by working the pumps from the lower deck. One would not want to to use more energy in raising the water much higher than water level. The upper set would only be used to raise water from the lower cistern to the upper deck for washing the deck down, etc.
  7. druxey
    Balloons, eh? I always wondered.... And the ship's boat in frame can be explained by, "The sailors are working on it in their spare time." Those lower masts look lovely now, Ed. Well done.
  8. druxey
    Get your lining out done and view the model the right way up from all angles as well as upside down. Plank with the model inverted unless you are a bear for punishment!
  9. druxey
    If you aren't satisfied now, it will always nag at you. Go for the re-do; it won't hurt! The rest of your work looks truly lovely, Erik.
  10. druxey
    1792? Thank you for that factoid, Jud!
  11. druxey
    Nice work on the cabin, Bob. Soon time to raise some steam....
  12. druxey
    Neither white or yellow glues take happily to freezing, unfortunately. It's rotten luck if you happened to get a bad bottle.
  13. druxey
    Coming along nicely, Maury! That cat davit is massive. Michael: just because da Vinci drew it, means the idea probably didn't catch on for a few more centuries. Look at his flying machines....
  14. druxey
    Roger: this begs the question of when ball bearings and races were first introduced. Do you have a date for this?
  15. druxey
    Nice stove and delightful cap! I envy you having CNC milling available to make those skylight frames.
  16. druxey
    'Slush' i.e. tallow was probably used for lubrication, not oil. Bearings were generally pretty simple. I imagine the spindle or shaft end would simply ride in a cast iron cup. 18th century capstans were done this way.
  17. druxey
    Whew! Building that capstan is quite the saga! Well done, Frank.
  18. druxey
    Are you pre-bending your planks, or are they simply sprung into place? You really need to pre-shape them using heat and/or moisture.
  19. druxey
    Nice to see a bit more progress, Michael!
  20. druxey
    Just came across your build log,Tomsun. You've done a really nice job so far. Too bad that lovely framing work will be hidden!
  21. druxey
    Love your attention to detail such as 'improving' the large washer! That is a beautiful as well as practical machine you have there.
  22. druxey
    Definitely check out a planking tutorial or two. Try David Antscherl's version and see if that computes for you.
  23. druxey
    To clarify Allan's sketches: the pin of the pintle is set in line with the forward edge of the rudder and the strap inset, so that the fore edge is a straight uninterrupted line. The fore edge is also bevelled off to each side (not shown) so that the rudder can rotate against the stern post. The idea is to eliminate any gap between rudder and post.
  24. druxey
    Also, the surfaces should be slightly porous. If sealed (with some type of finish, for instance), then adhesion will be an issue.
  25. druxey
    Ouch! High tech has its limitations. Sorry to read of the malfunction. Hope you are soon back up and running again.

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