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Everything posted by druxey
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Plans for smaller vessels rarely if ever showed knees. I would use a rule of thumb for the athwartship arms of the lodging knees and make them about 1/6th the length of the midship beams. That deck plan you posted is of the 90-gun ship Impregnable - not the best choice for comparison!
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Yes, that rotation is also what I meant, Michael. If those pins are headless that should make it much easier. You would not have to push them home.
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How to cut a limber board
druxey replied to tkay11's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
No waste of time if you arrived at a workable solution, Tony! -
I agree with your reconstruction of the original sequence of construction, Michael. Can you partially insert the 'B' pins so that the side wall can be moved outward at the top, the lifeboat deck secured, then the 'B' pins driven home before driving the 'A' pins? You'd need a specially bent tool and dental inspection mirror to drive the 'B' pins home, but that should be a piece of cake for you!
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Maurys: are you sure that you are showing us the correct deck plan? What I see above is one of a much larger man-of-war.
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Nice to see you back again, Christian. The work so far looks lovely. As Greg points out, the scores in the rising wood will locate your square frames positively and accurately. It's too bad no-one will ever see them later on!
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Very nice and methodical work, Michael. When you have finished up, no-one other than your MSW followers will have any idea of the work that will have gone into the restoration.
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Glad healing continues well, Michael. Love the classy wood base on Mark III.
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It certainly is a gorgeous piece of 'art'. Would a knurled screw on the side of the cylindrical body, instead of the one needing a tommy bar underneath, be more easily accessible?
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Nice going, although I can't imagine how one could carve that sitting figure without a stick or some other 'handle' to hold or grip it safely! The mushy card bedding is a neat technique.
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Can you carefully remove a little of the overpaint and determine the original paint color beneath? If you can do that and then match that color, I would be strongly tempted to strip the funnels and paint them to imitate the original finish. ('Author's intention', as it were.) This is especially true if the overpainting was poorly executed. Of course, you will keep a photographic record of the different stages if you decide to do so. A standard Kodak color card included in the photographs will help calibrate color when viewed later.
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I don't think plank ends were ever left loose and hanging, Maury.
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Snap! I have an identical pair of pliers of about the same vintage. They are useful.
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Oops! I missed spotting the nail in your photo, Ed. I have one version of the holder with three sizes of groove and gaps along the length to minimise that rocking issue.
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- young america
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Very adroitly restored, Michael. Too bad you can't do that as quickly with your leg! Hopefully it's healing without infection. I was wondering if parallel pliers would have assisted in straightening the stair carriage.
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Nice going, Ed. I have a small stop on my 45 degree planing jig so I can use both hands to control the tool. You may find this a convenient item to add.
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A standard Blomefield 6-pounder was 6' 0" long. Cutters generally carried either 3-pounders (4' 6") or 4-pounders (5' 6"). Information from Adrian Caruana, English Sea Ordnance: The Age of the System, page 299.
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Are you going to trim the plank ends back that are hanging in air?
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I'm with Wefalck on this - take good care of your files, use a file card and replace every 20 years!
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Short twelves, Chuck? I doubt whether a cutter would have a heavier long gun than a six-pounder. Most had three or four-pounders. Later ones had 12 or 18- pounder carronades instead.
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A clean room? What a novel concept, Michael! Nice work with the jewelers' saw, by the way.
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'Short' versions of long guns at the bow, perhaps? Even so, the carriage has little space for recoil on the port side.
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A Lorch Micro-Mill that never was ...
druxey replied to wefalck's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Excellent! I like the oiler you've incorporated.
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