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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Thanks for your opinion of using lead, Alex.
  2. druxey
    Very neatly done, Mike. Nice!
  3. druxey
    Could one make one die and simply back it up with a piece of lead, rather than having to machine two matching dies perfectly?
  4. druxey
    Planks were probably in the range of 20' 0" to 28' 0" long.
  5. druxey
    Coming along nicely, Dave. Neat work.
  6. druxey
    A fine dust air cleaner on the ceiling is not a bad thing for micro-particular 'bits'.
  7. druxey
    Fimo can be baked in an oven (low temperature!) to harden it. You can also add to the hardened model or carve it further, as well as paint it.
  8. druxey
    Chris: Like Jaeger, Pat, Dave, Bill, Roger and Mark said! Jim's sander throws a lot of dust, so a permanent hook-up to a collection system is something you may wish to consider. A shop-vac is pretty noisy, so if it can be placed in an adjacent space for sound attenuation....
  9. druxey
    From your clear descriptions the sequence is obvious anyway, Gerald. The number of jigs you make and use is quite extraordinary. Brilliant!
  10. druxey
    Nice progress, Mike. Michael: the type of hand-vise shown is a jeweler's and watchmaker's vise Check eBay for similar items.
  11. druxey
    If the crack is open a little, a touch of Bondo will fix it.... Good luck with all those ports and pins!
  12. druxey
    I agree that turning in deadeyes and seizing them is a chore, Chuck. Have you tried setting things up temporarily, figuring out where on the shroud the deadeye turns in, mark it, remove the shroud and do the turning in and seizing off-model? I find it makes life much easier doing this on the bench rather than operating 'in air'.
  13. druxey
    Fascinating information and pictures of the Whitemill! Thanks you, Roger, for bringing this to our attention.
  14. druxey
    Keel taper is a vexatious question. No source I've read specifies exactly where it begins. I suspect that it starts where the cant frames begin, but have no hard proof of this. Anyone else have more information?
  15. druxey
    Those photos give a good impression of how compact (read cramped) things were aboard a 14-gun sixth rate. Nice progress, Toni!
  16. druxey
    Too coarse a grain for modelmaking, but is would make beautiful cabinet wood in solid or veneer....
  17. druxey
    I was also thinking that the old-time shipwrights didn't have the luxury of CNC controlled (or any other kind of) mills!
  18. druxey
    In cases of this nature, when earlier and poorer work becomes apparent, consultation with the owner can clarify one's direction. Some prefer earlier work left 'as is', others want a better rework of the dodgy bits. Either way, photo records are essential along with condition and treatment reports. Is the old damage such that you could make an educated guess as to what might have happened to the model? Remember I mentioned that often stuff turns up that one didn't see earlier? There it is! Seriously, it looks like you are doing a fine job, Michael.
  19. druxey
    Just stumbled across your log, Keith. Late to the party, but what a party! Lovely work indeed.
  20. druxey
    That is a huge casting and piece of machining!
  21. druxey
    I don't think that dye is an issue if applied off-model. The problem would be even a tiny droplet landing where you don't want it on your model! I dye my wales as the first planks hung on the model, taking extra care with masking at the stem. However, it's all a matter of personal preference.
  22. druxey
    Yes, I know - it is counter-intuitive. But I found wood dye not particularly good. I see you have competition in the workshop now. That should keep you on your toes, Dad!
  23. druxey
    Well done, Daria (and Dad)! That is going to be very impressive. I'm looking forward to your progress.
  24. druxey
    Whether manually drafting or on computer, never completely trust anyone else's draughts! There is always at least some re-fairing required, I've found. That example thlbaultron has posted is not that unusual. A proof diagonal is an excellent way to check fairness.
  25. druxey
    Chuck: Heat may make the glue release on planking (and other structural components) already in place. That would be a more likely risk than damaging wood. Of course, it's an alternative method of un-glueing joints without isopropanol....

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