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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Yup, take a mental health break, as others have suggested. When you do go back to it, just look at a few small steps at a time and don't allow yourself to be overwhelmed by the apparent immensity of the whole project,
  2. druxey
    I do notice the turnbuckles on the mast stays, Michael. I presume they are operational and can control tension for you? I've had models where slack in a wire line was able to be taken up by the turnbuckle.
  3. druxey
    Small rivets are listed as 'gedrehte feinnieten/messing' (turned rivets/brass) on the Knupfer web site. Might save one a little time finding them!
  4. druxey
    Coming together beautifully, Giampiero.
  5. druxey
    Joel brings up an interesting point: "Do please try to do a neater job on the whipping of the ends than the original builder." In restoration work, it is more usual to try to match the style of the original builder rather than improve on it, unless that is the client/owner's request. Sometimes it's hard to resist the temptation to 'improve'. One needs to be sympathetic in the work one carries out.
  6. druxey
    I never, ever implied that Michael would use polyurethane foam!!!! In the case I cited, Jack, the hull was very sturdy and of wood, so no distortion occurred. It was simply very messy around the 'repair' area. Michael: thanks for the post-accident photo. It makes it very clear how the damage occurred. It's too bad some parts went out with the broken glass. However, I've no doubt that you are more than equal to the task of replicating the missing bits.
  7. druxey
    Be careful of secondary sources! We come down squarely (sorry about the pun) on the side of square sterns.
  8. druxey
    With Michael's skills, repairing the lifeboats should not be a problem. The hardest damage to fix is the subtle stuff, as well as amateur previous 'repairs'. In parenthesis, I have a model here with significant hull damage. Some bright spark 'fixed' the hole using expanding polyurethane foam!
  9. druxey
    Hah! Interesting observation, Frolick, and you are quite correct: Swans were about 300 tons and 96' 7" between perpendiculars.
  10. druxey
    It's always surprising to find more problems as one begins to assess damage in detail, Michael! I think your biggest challenge will be to inpaint the hull locally rather than have to repaint the entire side. It's not so much color matching, but getting the surface reflectance right. Best wishes as you begin to restore Albertic.
  11. druxey
    Ship sloops such as the Swans were, I believe, slightly larger vessels. Large ships, if built of fir, had square sterns. All small vessels such as the Cruizer class, seem to have been built with square sterns regardless of timber species.
  12. druxey
    Many happy years with your new daughter, Vaddoc. If it mirrors my experience, your model-making time will come to a shuddering halt at about her first birthday and won't pick up again until she's about ten. Looks like good progress. You were a bit optimistic about not having to spile! It's really not that bad. I'm curious as to why you used multiple levels rather than a set square to set those bulkheads up,
  13. druxey
    Charlie: The model Joe posted is a modern one, and, again, is a bit suspect as to details. Try to examine photos of contemporary models if you can. I believe that The U. S. Naval Academy Museum in Annapolis has at least one Cruizer class model in their collection.
  14. druxey
    Yes, it IS called a 'donkey's head', as the Dutch style mast cap is shaped like one!
  15. druxey
    Much better, Joss!
  16. druxey
    I suspect that, back in the 17th and 18th centuries, that colors varied a lot. Paint was mixed on site from pigment and oils. The quality of pigment would vary from batch to batch and where one was located geographically. No 'QC' back then! I agree with Wefalk - don't get too stressed about it.
  17. druxey
    I think you may need to experiment a bit to get the color you want. Those color names would probably give you something close to a brownish red, depending on how much brown you use.
  18. druxey
    Charlie: If you go to the Royal Museums Greenwich Collections web site, put 'Epervier' in the seach, you'll find the images I referenced.
  19. druxey
    Photos are pretty good, actually! I'm amazed that you can carve a figure that size using such relatively large tools. Have you thought of making some miniature ones from pieces of piano wire secured in a wood handle, hammered to shape and sharpened?
  20. druxey
    Small brigs of this time period certainly did not sport figureheads - no monies were expended on them. They either had scroll or fiddleheads. The figure on the model of Epervier is very suspect: the original 1803 draught 'as captured' from the French shows a small bird-like figure. The 1812 draught of a new brig of the same name shows no sign of anything like a figure, just a couple of ornamental curlicues.
  21. druxey
    Very nice, Mark.
  22. druxey
    Thanks for the information on bitumen, Gaetan.
  23. druxey
    One needs to be careful using bituminous compounds: they never completely 'set'. The alligator-skin cracked surface one sees in old varnish is caused by bitumen: it slowly 'crawls' over time. Some old paintings have the same problem where bitumen brown was used by the artist.
  24. druxey
    I agree that she would make an interesting subject, if some plans were available.
  25. druxey
    Of course, you could always just wait for 200 years....

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