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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Joel: stay with this log and all will be revealed! In short, the laps will be bevelled in a while and gains cut at bow and stern. It will be done just as in full-size practice, but considerably smaller.
  2. druxey
    Sweet! She's looking good.
  3. druxey
    If that was your first attempt at carved lettering - well done, Michael! And that you used a simple #11 blade rather than miniature carving tools is even more remarkable.
  4. druxey
    Thank you, gentlemen all. Finally had some quality time on the model. The first garboard plank is now spiled, cut, shaped and fitted. The stock is thin enough to cut with a sharp scalpel blade. The twist was achieved by cold wet bending and holding in place using rubber bands until dry. Castello takes more persuasion to bend than holly. Once the plank was dry, it was glued in place. I needed to cut back the plug more at the bow to allow the plank to land nicely in the bow rabbet. One plank down, many more to go!
  5. druxey
    A two year old? What were they thinking???? Anyway, both models are a good restoration challenge and I'm looking forward to seeing them returned to their former glory. Good luck with them.
  6. druxey
    That is exactly so.
  7. druxey
    And is the paint well stirred? In some paints the pigment tends to settle out fairly quickly.
  8. druxey
    Thanks for all the 'likes' and comments, everyone. Dan: the planking butts are arranged to fall on the frames in the model. I'm not going as far as bevelled and clenched joints on 1/64" thick material! This is a 1:48 scale exercise. I may be mad, but not entirely crazy.
  9. druxey
    Very nicely done! Catheads would have been of a single piece of compass timber for strength. They were probably cut from the bottom of the tree trunk where the roots spread out at the correct angle. (The cathead's shape would be upside-down when the tree was upright.)
  10. druxey
    That's correct, Joel - I hope! The last clinker boat I built was done this way. It's amazing how clinker planking holds the boat's shape. I even took the boat off the plug when half-planked to demonstrate. The frames will be bent in later on in the process.
  11. druxey
    After the full model, you should be able to do the deck framing in your sleep, Dan! Looking good.
  12. druxey
    Yes, I agree - what you've done is akin to watchmaking! Well played, Ed.
  13. druxey
    Looking good, but has the fore end of the coaming come adrift?
  14. druxey
    A small update: Before waxing the plug, I drew in the overlaps of the clinker planking. I made them 1" wide and are seen as dashed lines on the plug. Two coats of Clapham's beeswax polish were used over the mark-out. Leaves of ¾" thick Castello have now been prepared for the planking. They were cut a little over-thick and then taken down almost to spec on a thickness sander. Finer grades of sandpaper on sanding blocks produced a smooth surface. Hopefully there will be time to commence planking soon.
  15. druxey
    Lovely details!
  16. druxey
    Quite the forest of ventilators!
  17. druxey
    Delightful detail, Michael.
  18. druxey
    That's a different kind of display case and works wonderfully. Well done, Maury.
  19. druxey
    Well, there's been a little progress made between other projects. I decided to revise the scheme of planking butts and I'm happier with the new layout. The plug has been cut back along the central spine (arrowed) to ensure that it will not become accidentally glued to the plug while planking. The tiny transom has also been added and bevelled to conform to the plug's contours. The overall photo shows six small brass pins in place to secure the keel while installing the garboard strakes. Next up will be to wax the plug, then cut some very thin planking stock to ¾" thickness.
  20. druxey
    Like Michael, I've followed your work over many years, after stumbling across pictures of your tulipwood Hispano Suiza and one of your books. Thank you for sharing this project with us.
  21. druxey
    After some re-working of the planking runs, I've devised a scheme for the shift of the butts and marked these on the plug. Now that the 'non-boat' work is almost complete, it's time to get back to the actual model. I needed to devise a method of keeping the keel straight on the plug. If not stabilized, it will deflect as I fit the garboard strake. My solution is to drill small holes at intervals along the plug, then set sharp-ended pieces of hard brass wire, points uppermost. The keel will be pressed down onto these points. The resulting holes will be hidden under the keelson later on.
  22. druxey
    Ah! Another Saturday 'fix' - I mean update on your exquisite work for us to enjoy. Thanks, Glenn.
  23. druxey
    Very nicely accomplished Bob.Well done!
  24. druxey
    Interesting comparisons, Jerry. But here's a counter-argument to consider: Say you build your model from maple and the outlay is $40.00 (I figure that there will be quite a few 'makeover' bits, so two boards). Pear might cost twice as much. A Bonnehomme Richard model will probably take you 2000 hours to build. Amortize this in cents/hour. That's about 2c for the maple and 4c for pear. Pear or another specie of wood isn't such a huge investment when looked at that way, especially when you invest so much of your time and skill.
  25. druxey
    Lovely miniature metalwork, Ed. The third hands and rotating ceramic plate are a nice sophistication over earlier fixed base soldering stations.

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