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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Yes: the back of the chisel should be honed to a polished finish. The reflection of the wood gives you a guide as to when your chisel is vertical. Don't try to chop off thick slices this way: if you do, the edge will tend to move as you cut through the wood leaving an angled cut. Thin slices, please!
  2. druxey
    Looks like you go to the top of the class, John! Remarkable.
  3. druxey
    Thanks for the comments, gentlemen. Now I'm back, it's time to begin fitting out. The first item will be the footwaling (the floorboards). These were laid athwartships rather than longitudinally, according to the specifications for a different ceremonial barge of this period (ZAZ7154). Gerhard: the planking is 1/64" thick, or a scale ¾".
  4. druxey
    Well, the fun really begins.... Good stuff, Alan; you are getting your feet wet. Keep those chisels sharp!
  5. druxey
    Well, you are learning a lot in a short time, Louie! It's good to think out your strategies several steps ahead....
  6. druxey
    That's an elegant solution, Gerald! Very effective.
  7. druxey
    Sorry about delay in responding. I'm away right now. Small joints don't really need clamping: gentle finger pressure works for me.
  8. druxey
    Check the planking tutorials on this site.
  9. druxey
    Very professional work, Kees!
  10. druxey
    Just catching up with your progress. Making that rail in sections makes good sense. Nice work!
  11. druxey
    Looking good!
  12. druxey
    All those little holes? That must have been very frustrating. Nice work, though.
  13. druxey
    Nice progress and very clean looking work, Fam.
  14. druxey
    Certainly refining one joint at a time is a good strategy. Also gluing one joint at a time is. Multiple joints and you'll be chasing things around and almost guarantee failure. I personally don't use a jig, but rely on the two pieces I'm joining to line up perfectly on a copy of the assembly underneath. Also, watch out for creep and cumulative error as you build up a multi-part assembly. Adjust as necessary on - pardon the pun - the fly. Also, for model work, I've found power tools a snare and delusion. They always remove just a bit more than you want. But you know that already, right?
  15. druxey
    Starting over rather than trying to correct is a bold choice, but a good one. I hope this version goes well for you, Michael.
  16. druxey
    The discharge holes are usually circular, not square.
  17. druxey
    Endless: some contemporary models and plans do show the discharge tube exiting the counter. Looking great, Chuck!
  18. druxey
    That's a flying start! You've a lot of pieces cut already.
  19. druxey
    Looking lovely, Mike. Are you planning to pin the windlass to the deck as well?
  20. druxey
    Pop a plastic sheet over the model and dish!
  21. druxey
    Steven: I've finally had time to look at and absorb your preface to the build. Fascinating reading! Nice to see you actually get started in earnest.
  22. druxey
    Looked after and not abused, those Unimats keep on trucking. Nice set of ways, Jerry!
  23. druxey
    I'll send again, John.
  24. druxey
    It also assists respiratory health in wintertime!
  25. druxey
    Thanks so much, everyone. A footnote: I fully expected the shell and frames to have spread until the internal members such as thwarts are fitted. This has proved not to be the case so far: the hull is 'on spec', with an overall beam of 6' 1½" (6' 0" moulded, plus 1½" for the planking). We'll see if this is stable when I come back to the model.

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