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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Tyes had blocks at their far ends attached to tackle. The tackles could be let out, this lowering the yard, or hauled to raise it. Are you confusing these with jeers?
  2. If it's a figurehead you're after, Jerry, see the Admiralty Models web site....
  3. Definitely rougher at .1mm than .05mm. Thanks for showing us comparative results.
  4. Flow charts, feedback mechanisms and basic electrical circuitry I do understand, or I wouldn't have a clue about what you've presented, Hellmut! Thanks for this primer.
  5. Well, the wax option is useful for making repeatable metal castings. That certainly expands the range of possibilities for this machine.
  6. Ken: Yes, I'd treat both sides of the pieces as insurance, even if one side is not to be painted. I assumed that a part to be painted would mean hiding the printed surface. I suppose one could use a clear matt acrylic spray (carefully!) if the paintwork was to be transparent, but I've never tried this myself.
  7. The (automotive) primer is solvent based, so that paper or card is not affected by moisture, and a waterproof coating results.
  8. Thanks for the extra information, Iain. Does this machine use only resin, or are there other materials that could be substituted?
  9. Interesting configuration, Iain. Is there a reason for the angle you oriented the piece at, as well as so many supporting sprues (for lack of knowing the correct term)? Also, what would be the print time at fine resolution?
  10. Nice to see progress, Clare. One way of avoiding soggy paper or card is to spray with grey primer first. Then you can use acrylic paint over it, as it renders the card waterproof. I've done this for years with models of stage sets I've designed.
  11. Unfortunately kits can be frustratingly misleading at times. The way it was done (both in models and the real ships) was as you describe: slots in the edge of the channel and a covering strip put on afterwards. If you can shave the edge of the channel off down to the holes, then glue a strip on after, that would be the best solution. The 'before and after' on a scratch-built model show this method.
  12. I've just been silver soldering quite small parts: rings of ⅛" o.d. copper to brass strip for topsail yard stunsail booms at 1:48 scale. I had no difficulty with the joints, directing more heat on the brass which then conducted to the copper. I was using 'medium' silver solder (from sheet) and a butane micro-torch (similar to Hornet's posted photo). An example of these irons is shown here.
  13. Perhaps this analysis is overkill. Wood expands and contracts with humidity levels. So, were you to 'mike' the samples on another day, your readings will probably differ. You can't compare wood to, say, metal.
  14. Seems a pity to cover all those carlings and ledges.... Beautiful work, Lee.
  15. A slightly belated happy anniversary and many more, Michael and Judy! Manifold and carb are looking great.
  16. Thanks for the comprehensive reply, E&T. I was thinking only of underwater streamlining. It's nice to know that, in this case, all you need do is 'wait and see'!
  17. Terrific update, E & T. Question: would not the reinforcing straps have been inset flush to the surface of the wooden elements?
  18. Perhaps another source for earlier design (to add to your list, Wayne) is from the so-called "Newton Manuscript': a transcription by Sir Isaac Newton of a treatise c.1600. This gives instructions for designing ships, both naval and merchant. It is given in its entirety in an article in Mariners' Mirror, 1994, Volume 80, No.1. The 67 'Propositions' given describe how to design a ship.
  19. Neat story so far. Gute gesundheit, Wefalck! Get well soon.
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