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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Marcus: your new avatar is surely of Marcus Piscatorius?
  2. druxey
    Interesting selection, Mike. Another good source for small, quality tweezers is watchmakers' or jewellery supply houses. The quality of these is much higher than, say, Micro Mark. Then there's always eBay....
  3. druxey
    I'm sure that every captain adjusted mast rake to suit himself and get the best out of his rig.
  4. druxey
    Hey, if it works.... It doesn't have to look beautiful as well! Your home made line looks very nice. I assume you intended to make it left hand lay.
  5. druxey
    Here is a copy of an illustration from Steel of 1794, showing two reef points in every cloth. However, artistic license (and polys) may take precedence!
  6. druxey
    Beautifully rendered, Magnus. You'll hate me for pointing this out, but there were actually two reef points per cloth on topsails as well as the courses! We'll allow for artistic license here, won't we?
  7. druxey
    The crosspiece is placed low so that you could pass a line under it and haul it up tight on the other side. It gives one a good angle of pull. Over the years I've discovered that nothing on a ship was placed by accident: it's all part of a well thought out or well developed design.
  8. druxey
    Adroitly done, Ed. A nice piece of machining ratchets.
  9. druxey
    That idea had also crossed my mind, Mark.
  10. druxey
    It's a satisfying moment to cap the timbers, isn't it? Nice finish on your plank sheer rail!
  11. druxey
    Nice drawings! I suppose to prove the workability of this arrangement you could run the complete engine mechanism on compressed air.
  12. druxey
    I love the shape of this vessel now it's developed. It's always nice to see something a little different modelled, so thanks for sharing this with us, Clare.
  13. druxey
    And Brunel's machinery still works after 200 years! It's a fascinating story about the beginnings of industrial mass-production.
  14. druxey
    One could always model engineer Brunel's blockmaking machinery at Portsmouth and mass-produce blocks that way....
  15. druxey
    Heartwarming. Thanks for sharing that moment, Dave.
  16. druxey
    Well done, Siggi! Looking good.
  17. druxey
    That is a terrific method for turning small items like spokes, Remo. Deflection at those sizes is always an issue.
  18. druxey
    Excellent save there, Ed!
  19. druxey
    Beautiful result, Remo! That is a wheel to be proud of.
  20. druxey
    I agree that one should avoid WW lathes that are other than 8mm or 10mm. Boley and Levin are both top-notch machines. However, I found that the Levin with its collet-holding tailstock is more practical. (A Boley with collet-holding tailstock rather than a runner is very hard to find.) And, as wefalk suggests, the D-bed rather than the 'Reform' style lathe is preferable. For motor mounts, there are cast aluminum stands by Borel that hold both lathe and motor. All these items may be found on eBay. Remember to budget for a nice chuck and/or collets!
  21. druxey
    Although holly is white when freshly cut it will tone down and, after a few years, is almost indistinguishable in color from Castello boxwood.
  22. druxey
    That is great progress, Fam. Lovely work.
  23. druxey
    Mikeik - so much of model making is strategic! One learns to think far ahead, as in a chess game.
  24. druxey
    One way to avoid such masking issues would be to not add the strips (I assume these are moldings) until after you've painted the dark green planking. Prepaint the red strips before installing them. That way you don't have to worry about masking at all!
  25. druxey
    It's far easier to start with a square sectioned spar, then cut it octagonal, finally rounding off the areas where the spar is circular in section. That's the way real masts and spars are made, not turned. To mark out the four square to make it an octagon, each side is marked across 7-10-7 proportionately. That is to say, each face is divided across into 24 parts and lines set off 7 parts in from the edges. Place the four-square stick in a 45 degree holder or jig and plane or chisel down to the marked lines. From there it is easy to round off from octagonal. (In the shipyard, the mast was planed 16-sided first, then rounded, but for model work this step can be skipped.)

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