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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Allan; you are assuming that Bray's lovely illustration is of a boat belonging to Pallas. I interpret that as a boat ashore that he saw, not one of his ship's boats.
  2. druxey
    Yes, the trim of masts could be altered. One method was by adjusting the wedges at the partners. Another method (in use in the 18th century, at least) was a moveable mast step that could slide a few inches fore and aft along the keelson. it was secured by pairs of wedges fore and aft of the step. The wedges rested between the step and bolts driven into the keelson..
  3. druxey
    For planking information, check the pinned articles on this very site! Another source is the book on open boat construction: https://seawatchbooks.com/products/the-greenwich-hospital-barge-of-1832-and-methods-of-building-open-boats-by-david-antscherl?_pos=6&_fid=1cc675229&_ss=c
  4. druxey
    Well, you have a wealth of information available, Rob! That makes for a good start.
  5. druxey
    Rather than chalk, I use lead pencil.
  6. druxey
    'Turned up' it is! Thank you, Bruce.
  7. druxey
    Step by step it will be much less scary than looking at all the parts at once!
  8. druxey
    Interesting use of the word 'tuned', James.
  9. druxey
    0.4 mm? Tut, tut, Mark! Seriously, that is an impressive degree of accuracy that won't need much tweaking at all.
  10. druxey
    Nice bit of kit to have. Your work so far looks very neatly done.
  11. druxey
    I think Jaager is correct: turned rather than tuned. Sometimes transcribing period script is difficult.
  12. druxey
    Sleepers are very tricky to get 'just so'; you've made a super job of them, Mark!
  13. druxey
    Doing a nice careful job of it, Don. Styrene for sanding sticks is a good idea.
  14. druxey
    The bumping would be even worse at the bottom end around that small diameter rowle! The 'in the air' tube would probably have been be supported within the well that surrounds all the pump mechanisms.
  15. druxey
    The problem may be two fold. One; various plastic formulations will react differently as they have different malleability points and ranges. So what may work nicely on one plastic will be a disaster on another. The other issue that you've already alluded to is the varying thickness of the moldings. If you can determine the malleabilty range of the plastic you are using and apply just that amount of heat to the piece gradually getting it up to temperature with the piece on the curved form, then allowing it to cool, it might do the trick. Good luck!
  16. druxey
    And let's not mention Goya's etchings of the Disasters of War....
  17. druxey
    Hey, WWAC, for a first model, that is pretty respectable! And, imprtantly, you completed it. Sure, there were frustrating moments and you are probably you own worst critic but, as Bob pointed out, you've learned a lot from building this model. So, take a bow and a pat on the back.
  18. druxey
    That shape can easily be fixed, so don't despair! Moisten the inside of the planks from the point where the curve becomes concave, let things soften and re-mold to the correct convexity. The planks may tend to come away from stem and transom, but can easily be reglued.
  19. druxey
    Yes, the scale of the plates is 1:96. It is a very useful volume if you cannot afford a facsimile Steel.
  20. druxey
    Good to see that wood chips are flying again!
  21. druxey
    Welcome back, Mike! Cold equals model-making time!
  22. druxey
    Very nicely done! Just found your thread.
  23. druxey
    That worked out well for you, Steve. It usually takes several rounds of filler to get a nice surface such as yours.
  24. druxey
    I wasn't serious about heeling your model, Keith! Your description of an idyllic evening drifting in light airs is an almost transcendental one... but for the empty beer cans rolling in the scuppers.
  25. druxey
    Just catching this log: very well done, especially for a scratch 'first' time' build, MB!

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