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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Nice set-up, Ron. Whose sharpening guide is this?
  2. druxey
    Tip: don't rest the plane on its sole, but always on its side. The blade will stay sharper longer.
  3. druxey
    Well, the real seams had an overlap where the canvas was doubled. It was probably at least an inch or two wide. One would not see a stitched line at scale size. The effect is more obvious in transmitted light:
  4. druxey
    There you go! Trying new techniques for the first time is always daunting, but then one finds it not so bad after taking the plunge. You might want to make the 'seams' a bit wider next time.
  5. druxey
    Agree that scraping off the point will improve adhesion.
  6. druxey
    Very chromatically impressive, Marc.
  7. druxey
    a) You must have supplied several navies with blocks and line by now and b) you need to purchase Brunel's block-making machinery from Portsmouth.
  8. druxey
    Looking like a Nonsuch!
  9. druxey
    When wet, SilkSpan is delicate, as you've discovered. It needs gentle handling when lifting out of the water. Hold the piece by the edges on a diagonal, so excess water runs off the bottom corner. Once it has about ceased to drip, the sheet needs to be flopped carefully onto the frame with the plug in place. Wait a bit until it begins to dry before taping down, then remove the plug to let things dry and shrink taut. Using 'dope' (mentioned above) might affect any use of acrylic or other water-based paint adhering.
  10. druxey
    I'm sorry to read your response, Waldemar, and will politely withdraw from this discussion.
  11. druxey
    Read the planking articles posted on this site!
  12. druxey
    Have fun, Maury! Good to see you back working on the model.
  13. druxey
    I'm sorry to say that your post #75 and #78 to Wayne is, to put it charitably, unkind. Perhaps - assuming that English is your second language - you did not intend it to be a sharp as it reads, but that is the way I took it. Please be more careful. I take this thread to be an academic exercise of enquiry for respectful discussion. Now, I've looked at your range of stern post rakes and find that 18 degrees has a ratio of 1:3, and 22.5 degrees is 1:2.5 within experimental limits. I still think that you might consider the validity of constructing angles by ratio.
  14. druxey
    Lovely neat work as ever, marsalv.
  15. druxey
    Lovely attention to detail on those hanging knees.
  16. druxey
    Yes, that is the Robert Lightley model, Roger.
  17. druxey
    Do check out the planking primer by D. Antscherl on this site. Following it should solve all your problems.
  18. druxey
    Beautifully done. The time and care taken are paying off big time!
  19. druxey
    It can be done without a lathe at all, just like the full-sized spars are shaped. There are numerous references online you can check out, whee the spar is made four-sided, then octagonal and finally rounded. (The last step can be done in the workshop with a strip of sandpaper.)
  20. druxey
    Mockup looks great, Ben. Just be sure to slope the 'verticals' of the lettering to match the angles of the counter timbers as well. A subtle but nice refinement!
  21. druxey
    I would not necessarily rely on build logs here; many models are painted to 'captain's fancy'. Go to sites like https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects#!cbrowse to see contemporary models and paintings of the time period; these will give you a more accurate picture of what ships actually looked like.
  22. druxey
    Welcome aboard, fellow Ontarian! Must be full-on winter up your way....
  23. druxey
    Nicely done, Ben. And Greg has a good point - it has happened to me as well!
  24. druxey
    Sweet! Nicely done, Kevin.
  25. druxey
    In the past, at 1:48, I've put together several pieces to form those compound curves. The rail also curves in plan view AND is sloped as seen from the side!)

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