druxey
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That is one square that you don't drop! -
Oil paint varnish help
druxey replied to modeller_masa's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
As mentioned above, the drying rates are a factor in that craquelure finish. It is unlikely that the acrylic primer was incompatible with oil paint: artists use acrylic primer all the time on canvas and then apply oil over this. The problem lies in either the use of Liquin and rapid drying or reaction between oil and lacquer. If using lacquer thinner, make sure you have good ventilation, no open flame anywhere close by and, if possible, a NIOSH respirator mask. Acetone is nasty stuff. As advised, a gloss finish is not the best choice for a model. I'd suggest acrylic primer and oils paint, but allow the paint to dry slowly using only turpentine with a little linseed oil added as solvent. It's too bad that you had this problem as your paint job looked very well done. -
Looks like a very nice planking job. Well done. There will be filling and sanding required, though!
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I hope Doris is doing all right after her loss. We miss her here on MSW. Are you aware of the Boston Museum of Fine Art starboard side rendering of SOS that was made at the time? It's as good an idea as we'll ever have of how she looked until we can make a Time Machine. https://collections.mfa.org/objects/32448/sovereign-of-the-seas?ctx=556e234d-fe34-44f4-a732-16e9958db243&idx=0
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Personal taste makes each model different. One has to please oneself first!
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Muscovite is also known as mica. Much easier than glass to cut as well! Sharp scissors will do it.
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- heller
- soleil royal
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Thanks, Bruce. We have a lot of evidence of copper sheathing, but I don't recall seeing a visual of lead sheathing before.
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Welcome aboard, Stephan; bienvenue!
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For what it's worth, I find it far easier to do the cant framing fore and aft first, as the inside is far more accessible for fairing. Whether your method would allow this, after setting up the most forward and aft square frame, I don't know.
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Odd, indeed, Harvey; but fortunately we now have an accurate picture of how it was done!
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Came across this interesting record of lead sheathing on the RMG site. Unlike copper, the vertical joints were not offset: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-80442 The top appears to have a protective wood batten at least 1' 0" wide. The plates appear to be 5' 0" x 1' 6".
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Excellently done, Mike. Congratulations on reaching the finish line.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Nice finish and good problem solving!
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- Model Shipways
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Lovely as usual. Are you glad that there aren't 74 cannon and carriages to make?
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Magnifique, Monsieur! Question: how exactly does petroleum jelly work on the frosted plastic?
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Simply beautiful, Keith. It's been a great pleasure to follow your progress on Germania.
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Usually the size is expressed by the length of the block. I haven't the Mondfeld reference handy, but don't think block proportions changed much over time.
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
druxey replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Coming along and looking good, Peter. -
Most ingenious, Chuck!
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Thanks for bringing this to our attention, Mark!
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You certainly are overcoming the difficulties of this model. Nice work!
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Looking very nicely done. Well done on the new breast hook!
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
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