druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Also, even thin tape is too wide for the purpose. One can move the thread with white glue incrementally by moistening a finger and rolling the thread as needed. See the planking tutorial by David Antscherl on this site. -
Ouch! But if you weren't happy with it....
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Mathew Baker's early concept of ship hull design, ca. 1570
druxey replied to Waldemar's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Thank you, Waldemar. My impression is that ratios were very common - often decimal rather than duodecimal. -
Definitely additive work is more forgiving than subtractive!
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Health and happiness, Chris, on your 56th. (Young pup!)
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A very respectable job of the tricky headwork, particularly if you've not done this before.
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Mathew Baker's early concept of ship hull design, ca. 1570
druxey replied to Waldemar's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Fascinating topic/discussion! What relationship is there - if any - between the span across the supposed first (lower) deck and the keel length and moulded breadth? -
You won't want to make the captain (whomsoever he may be!) cross by that missing cross! Coming along famously.
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Any wear surface such as decking or stair treads were not painted.
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Love the cup for the capstan spindle!
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Usually the stunsail boom is forward of the yard it is mounted on.
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For complex parts such as the cheeks, fit the blanks to the bow and knee of the head first. Then shape the outboard profile. Finally shape the curve up on the fore and aft arm. If you try to do more than one part of the operation at the same time it will mess up!
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ancre La Belle 1684 by Oliver1973 - 1/36
druxey replied to Oliver1973's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Daß ist echt! Very lovely progress, Oliver. She makes a very sweet model. -
I would be hesitant to bend the beams. Wood has a way of reverting to its previous form if not bolted or treenailed in place. The larger piece with the round-up shaped, then parted off, is a better choice. The underside can be milled in if you have the facility. If not, cut the individual beams from sheet and finish them on shaped convex and concave sanding blocks. That is the way I make my beams these days. Looking really nice so far!
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No Idea: The square tuck, if almost above water level, will not really affect the rudder's effectiveness. However, if the tuck is deep into the water, the rudder will be in its 'shadow' with water turbulence in that area as the ship moves through the water. This situation means that the rudder is less efficient.
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You are doing really well already. These are fine points (pun intended).
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Alas, the example cited was drawn much later than the actual ship. Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings.
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Impressive. Marc. Might I suggest thinning the angels' lower feet a bit, though? They ain't hobbits!
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Mark-out is also critical. The finest pencil line possible helps a lot. A regular HB pencil doesn't cut it; use a mechanical clutch pencil with 2mm leads of 3H or 4H grade. in the purpose made sharpener. These give a really fine line. Then you can cut with confidence without wondering whether to aim for the which of the edges or middle of the line!
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The wishbone assembly looks very nicely done, Bob. I applaud your idea of adding the safety rails and bimini to your model. That will certainly set it apart from any other iteration.
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That is an amazing job at 1:64 scale, Steve. Well done!
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Welcome aboard, indeed. Check out Marine Modellers of Niagara on this site.
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Well done. The line that you aren't quite happy with could be straightened with a little water and then some dilute acrylic matte medium.
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