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ajromano
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Everything posted by ajromano
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Moved to Georgia! Got distracted by real world problems! Finally getting back into this build. -
LOL -- Does look totally wrong! It is nicely done! Look at their Consitution it is even more wrong! Hard to understand why when there is so much reference material/
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http://www.micromark.com/tweezer-sprue-cutter-despruing-tweezer,8012.html This is a great tool for fine work.
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Epoxy?? Perfect! CA is the devil!
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Hamilton -- Welcome to the idiots club! 30 bucks worth of glass!
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You keep raising the bar my friend!
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Hey Bill what retailer has quality mico tools? Or is this a here and there small vendor thing? Rockler and Woodcraft have some micro but not much.
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This is very impressive, I read two pages just now and will read all later tonight. Do you write books? Amazing the level of thought and detail. Far above my grade! I have read many books so I followed about 2/3ds of what was being discussed! Tony
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I found this nice set on micro carving tools, US made, great edge. Very handy on bow making slots in filler blocks for false knightheads. (is that right term?) I got side tracked in "Bowsprint", that turned into a three night project! Very interesting attempting to get "true" hex, taper, flat and round all on one little 6" board! I bought a Cherry and one other 3/8' square 2' long to use instead of Bass. I find Bass too soft to work with because it is too easy to over sand or cut. I can see where a mill would really help!
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Very nice looking boat. Quality modeling in plastic is all about painting!
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Impressive!
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Danny, Great quality and thanks for highly detailed how to. Tony
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The little Proxxon saw did very well ripping some planks out of 1/8" x 1" x 12" strip from local woodworking store! Worked on bulkheads A-D tonight. Stern assembly and some of my testing saw on hardwoods. Fun stuff!
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Thinned epoxy did firm up Basswood nicely. Replacement parts seem to be a slightly thicker and better plywood. After learning on first go this hull is shaping up nicely. Not a Jim saw but seem ok for not so perfect work. Ripped 1/8" Bass to 1/2" cut in 3 sanded to length and smooth. I bought bulk wood on sale a couple months ago just to have around. Finally needed it! I also ripped some Rosewood to about 1/8". This saw is nice quite, handy for lite work but not really up to level to do major mill work. Maybe with different blade and insert mod it can do thinner rips. It was only $130 bucks and does basic stuff I need today, $600 for Jim saw is too much right now.
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Yes learming is the main goal with this build. The most important lesson I've learned on this build is yellow glue turns Bass wood to mush! Going forward I will do my best to not use Bass it is too soft. I even applied a thin Epoxy coating to my keel to get some strength back into the wood. Next post I'll report how it worked.
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Two nights ago I was sanding away on my lower stern filler and pondering how to check lines of hull. I noticed that the entire hull had slight bow that was not there in past. I assume the bow was caused because I did not use exact fill methods on each side. When I arrived home yesterday the replacement parts from Model Expo had arrived. I decided to stop work on 1st hull, but not scrap just yet and try 2d build with lessons learned from 1st. Tonight I did all the keel glueing and all reference line layout work. I am very pleased with progress and now have confidence in exactly what is best method to install and true up bulkheads. In hindsight I see my 1st hull was too sloppy and I actually was using conflicting methods. Sub-deck maybe good idea, but my methods were less than optimal. I am actualling leaning towards changing deck to better wood.
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Jim sander. Status at end of today's work. Last are two photos of??? The game is to ID each semi complete project. And
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I changed my mind and am attempting to salvage current hull after encouragement from Rich and Danny. I did not like the Basswood single plank design, from past builds of airplanes and small boats I know Bass is very soft and does not hold edge. Using ¼” square to reinforce bulkheads in conjunction with my balsa filler for deck created a major sanding project. I was also very concerned with quality and precision of deck support. I also made mistakes on stern and had decided just to order new parts rather than take time to correct flaws. Last I used Howard Sicard’s website as reference and there got very good instruction on how to build stern. Above is 2am yesterday after 4 hours of sanding and adding sub-decking. My new Jim sander helps tons! Getting 100% true edge on filler blocks is great. This is my old sander.
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No stress, it is fun. I don't mind a bit redoing hull, I look at this as training.
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I pretty much boched up the last bulkhead and with prior mistakes decided to scrap hull. I took advantage of free replacement parts and ordered replacements today. This was a good trainging experience, I got to try some ideas and learn what not to do! I could have worked around my errors and repaired or cut new bulkheads but decided I did not have free time. So many projects and attempting to date after divorce all takes time.
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Rich -- Thinking butts, also I will do glueing on actual ship. Building board is for dry fitting. Ken -- That is what filler blocks are about. I maybe over killing here, but I have vision of poking a hole in hull or deck durning build or future cleaning. I mistakenly assumes all kits were doubl planked.
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Sale item! (Right) Ebay item (Lower right) I can't stand the idea of single planked deck. Deck building table. Balsa mock up.
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Thanks guys! I spent hours on line and reading finially found some really decent photos of stern. I actually have worked out plan for completing it! Working on filler for deck and made a building pin board with photo copy of deck. I am going to try laying out deck off ship for ease of access.
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I am going slow on the !@##@&%@^*& stern!
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