puckotred

Tjalle, check these out:

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/AT-RT5205.html#SID=428

it's one of those "must have" tools

Getting along nicely 👍

1: They are the same sizes.

2: No, the drillchuck has a fixed collet

👍👍👍

Cool tool, but an inner diameter of 1,5 mm is too large for a 1:64 model?... And I've heard that it still need some afterwork as the loop is open and misaligned. So it may still be that the old round nose pliers is the way to go...

👍👍👍

Agree, The plans for the masts in 1:1 are wonderful, then come the rigging plans, a couple of pages at the end of the instructions...

well, you are. I'm still planking the hull... 😁

Ok, my book is 40 pages, so nothing is missing.

I went through all the parts and marked them as wood or metal  as I saw how disorganized the instructions actually are. I hope I got it covered. But thanks for the warning. There are a hundred things to keep track of here. To keep full control of the build (as with the PE parts) you have to jump from plan to plan looking for parts without really knowing what plans you should check. Sometimes several plans just for one area of the build.... Amati could have done that part a little better...

Happy to be of some use. Now I see that I missed those parts under the poop deck. Good thing you posted that. 

You mentioned the "second book" and I only have one book. How many pages does your first book have? Hopefully I have a version that has your two books printed as one...

I worked on the "Gotheborg" and lowered all the top masts but was up in the masts and not on deck so I missed where the belaying points where...

Can't remember if there was one or two lines on the lift, but since there are two sheaves it seems logic that there would be two ropes as well...

Could 411 be for the foremast and 413 be for the main mast? 410 and 416 for fore and main yard? 416 is described as "Driza verga mayor". Spanish "Driza" is Halliard so it would go to the yard...  "main yard halliard"

Found this pic that shows the blocks for the lift. 

Or is 411 the lifting ropes for the topmast??? And 410-416 for the main spar? I have to check this again tomorrow, now is bedtime...

Last first:

Line 406 should go to one of the 431 belaying points.

lifting ropes:

On page E in the booklet the lifting ropes (410-416) go straight down to the blocks behind the mainmast (i hope it is the main mast) so these blocks will be belaying points 410-416 and 411-413...

Line 414 should be belayed to block closest to deck.

The same should work for the fore mast. The cleats I do not know why they are there (yet)...

Hope you understand me...

1 hour ago, wefalck said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WOW!!! That's all I can say... (Except for your computer, not very impressed 😊)

Well, we could try and figure it out together since I also have the plans.... 

Tell me what lines etc you are working with and I'll see if my tired brain could be of any help...

Looking good!

You might want to glue on the PE doors, ladders and windows now. The instructions does not say when to do this (or at least I have not found this) so check what PE to do now before the walls becomes too hard to access...

Nice!!!

First layer planking are plank strips. Should be enough of them to cover the extras... 

the strips may be fine also. The piece with the hole where the anchorchain comes out (anyone help me with the name for that hole?) has been trimmed so it could be that the ply strips would be long enough. (Forgot to mention before that one has to cut these strips from a large piece of thin ply. Should be easy to add a little in length to these strips while cutting)

The golden rule is: Do what you will be satisfied with. It's hard to look at a finished build and always think "I should have done this and that. WHY didn't I do that?" 

The Strips are a pain in the a$$... Why they didn't do them laser cut I don't know. Had I known about these I'd might bought some other kit. Apart from that it IS a wonderful kit... 

The bow is too narrow but no one I know has any knowledge about this so I don't care 😊

Yes, 3d print is fun and useful. I've heard of the acetone technique before but not in detail, so thanks again 🙂.

On my Vasa build I broke almost all the doorframes and now I can print new ones.

As the doors cover the frames completely I don't have to worry about layer artifacts...

Ah 😟, My issues are also with my mother... Although she's "only" 82 I had to get her to a resting home since she had some sort of a breakdown. (hearing and seeing things) One is never prepared even though you know they are old...

Beautiful!

(lot's of things happening here in the neighborhood so my building has slowed down...) Hope I can get mine half as good 

5 hours ago, wefalck said:

I also had the issue with disc sanders taking off too much too quickly and made myself a little sander that allows to sand plank ends square and at angles:

 

 

 

I also constructed a miniature disc sander around a surplus watchmakers lathe. It is powered by a relatively slow-speed motor with controller. In this way the grinding process can be controlled better. For grinding I use either cheap diamond grit discs or flat discs with fine sandpaper glued on.

 

 

 

Love your tools!!!

9 hours ago, Yukon said:

if you have a 3D printer you can print a center finder free

center finder.zip

Thanks a million!!!