Bob Cleek

Pentart Liquid Patina is great, unfortunately it is sold out on Ebay. So far don't see any reliable source in the US.
As mentioned before Bitumen liquids are not finishing products as oils and dyes (use it as a stain on bare wood and you get an ugly, patchy black rotten wood look). Can't just be applied evenly and let dry. Use it as a wash to weather the finished surface (not just wood) to highlight the details, applying small quantities and letting the liquid flow into crevices. Or apply liberally but wipe off the excess on raised surfaces to give it a look of centuries ald object which accumulated dirt over the years. All together it takes the model into a certain style category of fake antiques and is absolutely not necessary as one can build a model in style of Syren Ship model prototypes. Those grimey museum models where just as clean as Chuck's models when they were initially built. On the picture is my 4 oared Yal in progress. Pear with homemade stain before and after applying  Liquid Patina
 

 

Oh yeah! Definitely! Professional jewelry supply houses, and medical and dental instrument supply houses are goldmines full of useful modeling tools and supplies, generally at higher quality and even at lower prices that the "hobby" online suppliers. 
 
In the US:     https://www.riogrande.com/category/tools-and-equipment
                 
                      https://contenti.com/professional-jewelry-making-tool-kit   
 
                      https://www.ottofrei.com/jewelry-tools-equipment
 

Marcus,
Similar to Monfeld's formulas, and lacking other information, the formulas in Lees Masting and Rigging will give you every mast and spar dimension,  and rope circumference from 1625 to 1860.  He starts with formulas for various time periods to find the main mast length, then all mast and spar dimensions as well as all rope circumferences can be found easily.   As has been reviewed here at MSW recently, go to the Articles Data base here at MSW and bring up Danny Vadas' spread sheet.  It appears to be the same information that Lees gives with one exception.  The Vadas spread sheet cannot be used for the period from 1670-1711 as his base formula was not done correctly so all dimensions that follow are wrong as well for this time period.   If you have a vessel in that time period, Lees formulas work. 
 

Without pulling my copy off the shelf, I believe zu Montfeld refers to the diameter of the mainstay as a percentage of the diameter of the mainmast at the deck and then everything else as a percentage of the diameter of the mainstay, for cordage standing rigging, at least. In real life, I think it was left to the bosun's judgment and the cordage available. "Big enough to carry the load" was essential, of course. At some point, I believe the Admiralty standardized block sizes for purposes of procurement and store-keeping and the running rigging would be sized to match the blocks, but I doubt there was a lot of science to rigging sizes that could be reduced to absolute mathematical formulae back in those times. "Different ships, different long splices" was the order of the day.  There are many far more informed on the subject than I am, I'm sure. Perhaps one can add more than what i have or correct any errors in what I've stated. 

In using this construction technique, at what point does tumblehome become a problem in removing the planked hull from the plug? I recall the loss of tumblehome when yacht hulls began to be made of fiberglass, which didn't permit removing a hull with tumblehome from a mold unless the mold was constructed of two parts split down the centerline which could be disassembled and removed from each side. Is there enough "flex" in the planked up structure to "spread" the sides and "pop" the hull off the plug?

That works. Another trick, particularly if you have an adapter for each blade that needs one, is to place the blade flat on top of a flat surface with a piece of "non-stick" material, like a piece of tinfoil or plastic wrap. Place the adapter inside the blade center hole. Apply a sparing drop of glue to a couple or three evenly spaced points on the seam between the spacer and the blade. Pretty much any glue will do, with CA being the least preferable, but still acceptable. Let the glue dry. This attaches the spacer in the blade hole so that the blade can be easily placed on the arbor in the usual fashion. If the spacer needs to be removed, the lightly glued spacer can simply be broken free from the blade, if need be by tap with a small hammer. Such semi-permanent attachment also helps avoid losing the spacer and having to replace it (only to be found later!)

I'd strongly second this recommendation. The initial cost is about twice what a decent Dremel or Proxxon will cost, but, indeed there is no comparison. The Foredom flex-shaft tool system is several multiples better than the less expensive options. (Do not opt for one of the Chinese copies now on the market. They've gotten terrible reviews.) As for drill presses, Vanda-Lay Industries, which produces an excellent system of "Dremel powered" drill presses and mills, etc., has informed me they would be happy to supply their equipment with fixtures to hold the 1" diamenter Foredom handpieces instead of the larger Dremel bodies. I'll be upgrading my Vanda-Lay drill press to hold my Foredom handpieces instead of a Dremel moto-tool in the near future. Torque trumps speed every time in fine work!

The accuracy of a Byrnes Model Machines table saw is measured in thousandths of an inch with a micrometer fence adjustment. The tape may not make any difference on a right angle cut, but things can wobble when the work isn't laying perfectly flat on the table. With something between the workpiece and the table, sliding can be uneven, a slight movement can cause the blade to catch the piece and cause a kickback. It may well only happen in theory... and then again, it may happen in reality. As I said, if you wanted to take a chance, it's your blood, not mine. I think I'd be more inclined to use a larger plate and risk losing a strip down the clearance space than risk laying down tape myself. If you're looking for affirmation, yes... It shows your thinking and it's a clever work-around, but I'm not going to advise anybody to try it and be responsible if they come to grief.

My thought, too. If you have a saw that is capable of fine tolerances, e.g. a Byrnes, the tape solution will probably sacrifice some reliable accuracy.
 
On the other hand, as for tape tearing through and all that, there is an aluminium (I think) tape commonly used to tape ducting joints in HVAC installations that would probably solve any tearing issues. 
 
On balance, your idea is a clever one and perhaps a quick solution for a single cut, if you are careful and not too concerned about ultimate accuracy. For a production run of planking strips... not so much. I think you'd be better off to take the time to swap inserts rather than be sorry. Of course, it's always seems when a corner is cut for just one quick cut that's when an accident occurs. With a hand saw, "measure twice and cut once." With a table saw, "measure twice, think three times, rehearse the cut without the saw running, then cut."

Oh yeah! Definitely! Professional jewelry supply houses, and medical and dental instrument supply houses are goldmines full of useful modeling tools and supplies, generally at higher quality and even at lower prices that the "hobby" online suppliers. 
 
In the US:     https://www.riogrande.com/category/tools-and-equipment
                 
                      https://contenti.com/professional-jewelry-making-tool-kit   
 
                      https://www.ottofrei.com/jewelry-tools-equipment
 

Fly tying vises are great. Anything that holds the workpiece will generally improve efficiency and accuracy by orders of magnitude over fingers. (Don't ask me how long it took me to learn this bit of wisdom!  )
 
Many modelers are familiar with the following "holders." I'm posting them for newcomers who may not have encountered them as yet.
 
The jeweler's hand vise:  These come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and styles. My favorite is one which adjusts by twisting the handle, which screws the handle up a threaded shaft with a cone at its base which forces the jaws together. It has grooved teeth to hold various sizes of wire for drawing through a draw plate and a hole through the shaft and handle which permits holding the end of a wire or thin dowel close at the jaws while letting the long end project from the end of the handle. The handle can be held in a larger soft or protected jaw bench vise to free both hands to work on the workpiece. They're relatively inexpensive.
 

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4119-Handy-Hand-Held/dp/B005W179JC/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/131-3456601-3915348?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005W179JC&pd_rd_r=9e8a1884-e3be-4bd1-9a39-ca497790734c&pd_rd_w=URu5u&pd_rd_wg=naP5e&pf_rd_p=fd3ebcd0-c1a2-44cf-aba2-bbf4810b3732&pf_rd_r=88G5XCC3HZV8SXC4JG6E&psc=1&refRID=88G5XCC3HZV8SXC4JG6E
 
Universal work holder: These vises hold irregular-shaped small objects. They have small metal pins that are inserted wherever one desires on the face of the vise to hold the workpiece, either by moving the jaws together to clamp down on the piece, or, as with rings, placing the pins inside the ring and moving the jaws apart to hold the ring from the center. The entire vise "head" can be screwed off the handle and placed in a bench vise with the jaws tightened on the squared edges of the bottom of the vise head. Another inexpensive and very handy tool.
 

https://www.riogrande.com/product/universal-work-holder-with-handle/113089
 
"Third hand" gizmos:  Everybody must have seen, if not owned, the ubiquitous "Third Hand," the black base with ball-joint articulated arms with alligator clips or other usually useless things, like small magnifying glasses, on their ends. The ball joints are loosened and tightened with wing nuts. They are very inexpensive and often sold as catalog "loss leaders" for a few bucks. I have a couple. The first was next to useless because the wing nuts didn't really hold the ball joints tightly. The second, a higher priced one, was no better for the same reason. Not recommended, but your mileage may vary.
 

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-Adjustable-Magnifying-Alligator/dp/B000P42O3C/ref=asc_df_B000P42O3C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312096335436&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5246044958869315323&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032113&hvtargid=pla-448870101576&psc=1
 
There's a new wrinkle on the "Third Hand" coming out of the electronics production assembly industry (for holding small printed circuit boards for soldering) which is not particularly inexpensive (starting at around $25 and running up to around $75 for the super-size deluxe model,) but looks very promising. It's called the "QuadHands Magnetic WorkBench" system and comes in a variety of configurations and sizes. It consists of a flat heavy steel plate and bendable "gooseneck" arms with replaceable alligator clips with removable silicone jaw pads at one end (which can be rotated and locked in place) and rare earth "super-magnets" at their bases. The arms can be placed anywhere on the steel base place and bent as desired. I'll probably spring for one when I next have a bunch of small part soldering to do. I haven't seen one in the flesh as yet. If anybody has worked with one, a review would be welcomed. These have been widely copied by our Asian friends. The "real" QuadHands products are Made in the USA. (Additional "arms" of varying lengths may be purchased separately.)
 

https://www.quadhands.com/?rfsn=2886761.5f09cb&utm_source=refersion&utm_medium=influencers&utm_campaign=2886761.5f09cb
 
 

What Bob said would work well.  I use a piece of double sided tape that's bigger than the insert so it's uniform all around.
 
 

I may have posted these pictures before. Below a selection of the various work-holding tools I have collected or made over the years:
 

 
1 - Archimedes drill for watchmakers.
2 - Slender modern pin-vice with hollow fluted brass body.
3 - Slender antique pin-vice with hollow fluted brass body.
4 - Shop-made pin-vice with walnut body and head made from an insert drill-chuck; these drill-chucks are unfit for their intended purpose as they usually do not run true.
5 - Eclipse toolmaker's pin-vice with knurled steel body; these come in different sizes.
6 - French-style pin-vice; these are closed with the sliding ring and have usually brass inserts in the two jaws that can be adapted to special needs;
7 - Dito, here the jaws are replaced in hard-wood for delicate parts.
8 - Antique laboratory pin-vice with fluted wooden handle.
9 - Modern pin-vice with fluted wooden handle; these come in different sizes and capacities.
10 - Antique toolmaker's pin-vice for very delicate work in confined spaces.
 
 

 

 
1 - Toolmaker's hand-held vice that is closed with a sliding ring.
2 - Hand-vice with parallel serrated jaws moved by a screw.
3 - Antique american style hand-vice; the jaws are closed by screwing in the conical body; the handle and body have been replaced.
4 - Hand-held collet-holder; this uses horological lathe collets; the advantage is that work can be transferred between the holder and the lathe when it has the nominal collet diameter.
5 - Castrovejo surgical non-locking needle-holder; they come in various sizes, this one is for eye-surgery.
6 - Antique surgical locking needle-holder; these come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes.
 
I tend to go around flea-markets and ebay to look for antique pieces or 'seconds' from the production of professional medical tools and the likes (regular prices are just not affordable), because the quality is usually so much better than what hobby shops try to flog to us hobbyists.
 
The problem with many pin-vices is that their jaws are serrated - not good for use on wood. Finding one with smooth jaws is not so easy.
 
We also had a thread here some time ago on 'third hands', where people showed their home-grown ones. OK, this is something for those with the right machinery, but the ones you can buy for a few € / £ / US$ today tend to be too flimsy and imprecise.
 
Below is the one I made myself on the basis of an inherited cast-iron lab stand. It can also double as a little vice with a function similar to those fly-tying vices. I made clamps from different materials, such as steel, brass and Novotex and the ubiquituous electrical 'crocodile' clamps can also be used. In addition, I bought some ceramic jaws as used in soldering tweezers, but did not get around to make the clamps for them yet. I also made two types of hooks to hold blocks and ropes respectly. Another useful attachment are little collect chucks that clamp from near zero up to about 3.2 mm - 1/4". These chucks with collets can be found on ebay at around 2€ or so. They are useless for their intended purpose, but good for holding wires and other round objects - even thin flat objects, as they are slotted cross-wise.
 

   
 

In using this construction technique, at what point does tumblehome become a problem in removing the planked hull from the plug? I recall the loss of tumblehome when yacht hulls began to be made of fiberglass, which didn't permit removing a hull with tumblehome from a mold unless the mold was constructed of two parts split down the centerline which could be disassembled and removed from each side. Is there enough "flex" in the planked up structure to "spread" the sides and "pop" the hull off the plug?

That works. Another trick, particularly if you have an adapter for each blade that needs one, is to place the blade flat on top of a flat surface with a piece of "non-stick" material, like a piece of tinfoil or plastic wrap. Place the adapter inside the blade center hole. Apply a sparing drop of glue to a couple or three evenly spaced points on the seam between the spacer and the blade. Pretty much any glue will do, with CA being the least preferable, but still acceptable. Let the glue dry. This attaches the spacer in the blade hole so that the blade can be easily placed on the arbor in the usual fashion. If the spacer needs to be removed, the lightly glued spacer can simply be broken free from the blade, if need be by tap with a small hammer. Such semi-permanent attachment also helps avoid losing the spacer and having to replace it (only to be found later!)

In using this construction technique, at what point does tumblehome become a problem in removing the planked hull from the plug? I recall the loss of tumblehome when yacht hulls began to be made of fiberglass, which didn't permit removing a hull with tumblehome from a mold unless the mold was constructed of two parts split down the centerline which could be disassembled and removed from each side. Is there enough "flex" in the planked up structure to "spread" the sides and "pop" the hull off the plug?

That works. Another trick, particularly if you have an adapter for each blade that needs one, is to place the blade flat on top of a flat surface with a piece of "non-stick" material, like a piece of tinfoil or plastic wrap. Place the adapter inside the blade center hole. Apply a sparing drop of glue to a couple or three evenly spaced points on the seam between the spacer and the blade. Pretty much any glue will do, with CA being the least preferable, but still acceptable. Let the glue dry. This attaches the spacer in the blade hole so that the blade can be easily placed on the arbor in the usual fashion. If the spacer needs to be removed, the lightly glued spacer can simply be broken free from the blade, if need be by tap with a small hammer. Such semi-permanent attachment also helps avoid losing the spacer and having to replace it (only to be found later!)

Fly tying vises are great. Anything that holds the workpiece will generally improve efficiency and accuracy by orders of magnitude over fingers. (Don't ask me how long it took me to learn this bit of wisdom!  )
 
Many modelers are familiar with the following "holders." I'm posting them for newcomers who may not have encountered them as yet.
 
The jeweler's hand vise:  These come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and styles. My favorite is one which adjusts by twisting the handle, which screws the handle up a threaded shaft with a cone at its base which forces the jaws together. It has grooved teeth to hold various sizes of wire for drawing through a draw plate and a hole through the shaft and handle which permits holding the end of a wire or thin dowel close at the jaws while letting the long end project from the end of the handle. The handle can be held in a larger soft or protected jaw bench vise to free both hands to work on the workpiece. They're relatively inexpensive.
 

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4119-Handy-Hand-Held/dp/B005W179JC/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/131-3456601-3915348?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005W179JC&pd_rd_r=9e8a1884-e3be-4bd1-9a39-ca497790734c&pd_rd_w=URu5u&pd_rd_wg=naP5e&pf_rd_p=fd3ebcd0-c1a2-44cf-aba2-bbf4810b3732&pf_rd_r=88G5XCC3HZV8SXC4JG6E&psc=1&refRID=88G5XCC3HZV8SXC4JG6E
 
Universal work holder: These vises hold irregular-shaped small objects. They have small metal pins that are inserted wherever one desires on the face of the vise to hold the workpiece, either by moving the jaws together to clamp down on the piece, or, as with rings, placing the pins inside the ring and moving the jaws apart to hold the ring from the center. The entire vise "head" can be screwed off the handle and placed in a bench vise with the jaws tightened on the squared edges of the bottom of the vise head. Another inexpensive and very handy tool.
 

https://www.riogrande.com/product/universal-work-holder-with-handle/113089
 
"Third hand" gizmos:  Everybody must have seen, if not owned, the ubiquitous "Third Hand," the black base with ball-joint articulated arms with alligator clips or other usually useless things, like small magnifying glasses, on their ends. The ball joints are loosened and tightened with wing nuts. They are very inexpensive and often sold as catalog "loss leaders" for a few bucks. I have a couple. The first was next to useless because the wing nuts didn't really hold the ball joints tightly. The second, a higher priced one, was no better for the same reason. Not recommended, but your mileage may vary.
 

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-Adjustable-Magnifying-Alligator/dp/B000P42O3C/ref=asc_df_B000P42O3C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312096335436&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5246044958869315323&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032113&hvtargid=pla-448870101576&psc=1
 
There's a new wrinkle on the "Third Hand" coming out of the electronics production assembly industry (for holding small printed circuit boards for soldering) which is not particularly inexpensive (starting at around $25 and running up to around $75 for the super-size deluxe model,) but looks very promising. It's called the "QuadHands Magnetic WorkBench" system and comes in a variety of configurations and sizes. It consists of a flat heavy steel plate and bendable "gooseneck" arms with replaceable alligator clips with removable silicone jaw pads at one end (which can be rotated and locked in place) and rare earth "super-magnets" at their bases. The arms can be placed anywhere on the steel base place and bent as desired. I'll probably spring for one when I next have a bunch of small part soldering to do. I haven't seen one in the flesh as yet. If anybody has worked with one, a review would be welcomed. These have been widely copied by our Asian friends. The "real" QuadHands products are Made in the USA. (Additional "arms" of varying lengths may be purchased separately.)
 

https://www.quadhands.com/?rfsn=2886761.5f09cb&utm_source=refersion&utm_medium=influencers&utm_campaign=2886761.5f09cb
 
 

Fly tying vises are great. Anything that holds the workpiece will generally improve efficiency and accuracy by orders of magnitude over fingers. (Don't ask me how long it took me to learn this bit of wisdom!  )
 
Many modelers are familiar with the following "holders." I'm posting them for newcomers who may not have encountered them as yet.
 
The jeweler's hand vise:  These come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and styles. My favorite is one which adjusts by twisting the handle, which screws the handle up a threaded shaft with a cone at its base which forces the jaws together. It has grooved teeth to hold various sizes of wire for drawing through a draw plate and a hole through the shaft and handle which permits holding the end of a wire or thin dowel close at the jaws while letting the long end project from the end of the handle. The handle can be held in a larger soft or protected jaw bench vise to free both hands to work on the workpiece. They're relatively inexpensive.
 

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4119-Handy-Hand-Held/dp/B005W179JC/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/131-3456601-3915348?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005W179JC&pd_rd_r=9e8a1884-e3be-4bd1-9a39-ca497790734c&pd_rd_w=URu5u&pd_rd_wg=naP5e&pf_rd_p=fd3ebcd0-c1a2-44cf-aba2-bbf4810b3732&pf_rd_r=88G5XCC3HZV8SXC4JG6E&psc=1&refRID=88G5XCC3HZV8SXC4JG6E
 
Universal work holder: These vises hold irregular-shaped small objects. They have small metal pins that are inserted wherever one desires on the face of the vise to hold the workpiece, either by moving the jaws together to clamp down on the piece, or, as with rings, placing the pins inside the ring and moving the jaws apart to hold the ring from the center. The entire vise "head" can be screwed off the handle and placed in a bench vise with the jaws tightened on the squared edges of the bottom of the vise head. Another inexpensive and very handy tool.
 

https://www.riogrande.com/product/universal-work-holder-with-handle/113089
 
"Third hand" gizmos:  Everybody must have seen, if not owned, the ubiquitous "Third Hand," the black base with ball-joint articulated arms with alligator clips or other usually useless things, like small magnifying glasses, on their ends. The ball joints are loosened and tightened with wing nuts. They are very inexpensive and often sold as catalog "loss leaders" for a few bucks. I have a couple. The first was next to useless because the wing nuts didn't really hold the ball joints tightly. The second, a higher priced one, was no better for the same reason. Not recommended, but your mileage may vary.
 

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-Adjustable-Magnifying-Alligator/dp/B000P42O3C/ref=asc_df_B000P42O3C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312096335436&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5246044958869315323&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032113&hvtargid=pla-448870101576&psc=1
 
There's a new wrinkle on the "Third Hand" coming out of the electronics production assembly industry (for holding small printed circuit boards for soldering) which is not particularly inexpensive (starting at around $25 and running up to around $75 for the super-size deluxe model,) but looks very promising. It's called the "QuadHands Magnetic WorkBench" system and comes in a variety of configurations and sizes. It consists of a flat heavy steel plate and bendable "gooseneck" arms with replaceable alligator clips with removable silicone jaw pads at one end (which can be rotated and locked in place) and rare earth "super-magnets" at their bases. The arms can be placed anywhere on the steel base place and bent as desired. I'll probably spring for one when I next have a bunch of small part soldering to do. I haven't seen one in the flesh as yet. If anybody has worked with one, a review would be welcomed. These have been widely copied by our Asian friends. The "real" QuadHands products are Made in the USA. (Additional "arms" of varying lengths may be purchased separately.)
 

https://www.quadhands.com/?rfsn=2886761.5f09cb&utm_source=refersion&utm_medium=influencers&utm_campaign=2886761.5f09cb
 
 

Fly tying vises are great. Anything that holds the workpiece will generally improve efficiency and accuracy by orders of magnitude over fingers. (Don't ask me how long it took me to learn this bit of wisdom!  )
 
Many modelers are familiar with the following "holders." I'm posting them for newcomers who may not have encountered them as yet.
 
The jeweler's hand vise:  These come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and styles. My favorite is one which adjusts by twisting the handle, which screws the handle up a threaded shaft with a cone at its base which forces the jaws together. It has grooved teeth to hold various sizes of wire for drawing through a draw plate and a hole through the shaft and handle which permits holding the end of a wire or thin dowel close at the jaws while letting the long end project from the end of the handle. The handle can be held in a larger soft or protected jaw bench vise to free both hands to work on the workpiece. They're relatively inexpensive.
 

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4119-Handy-Hand-Held/dp/B005W179JC/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/131-3456601-3915348?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005W179JC&pd_rd_r=9e8a1884-e3be-4bd1-9a39-ca497790734c&pd_rd_w=URu5u&pd_rd_wg=naP5e&pf_rd_p=fd3ebcd0-c1a2-44cf-aba2-bbf4810b3732&pf_rd_r=88G5XCC3HZV8SXC4JG6E&psc=1&refRID=88G5XCC3HZV8SXC4JG6E
 
Universal work holder: These vises hold irregular-shaped small objects. They have small metal pins that are inserted wherever one desires on the face of the vise to hold the workpiece, either by moving the jaws together to clamp down on the piece, or, as with rings, placing the pins inside the ring and moving the jaws apart to hold the ring from the center. The entire vise "head" can be screwed off the handle and placed in a bench vise with the jaws tightened on the squared edges of the bottom of the vise head. Another inexpensive and very handy tool.
 

https://www.riogrande.com/product/universal-work-holder-with-handle/113089
 
"Third hand" gizmos:  Everybody must have seen, if not owned, the ubiquitous "Third Hand," the black base with ball-joint articulated arms with alligator clips or other usually useless things, like small magnifying glasses, on their ends. The ball joints are loosened and tightened with wing nuts. They are very inexpensive and often sold as catalog "loss leaders" for a few bucks. I have a couple. The first was next to useless because the wing nuts didn't really hold the ball joints tightly. The second, a higher priced one, was no better for the same reason. Not recommended, but your mileage may vary.
 

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-Adjustable-Magnifying-Alligator/dp/B000P42O3C/ref=asc_df_B000P42O3C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312096335436&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5246044958869315323&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032113&hvtargid=pla-448870101576&psc=1
 
There's a new wrinkle on the "Third Hand" coming out of the electronics production assembly industry (for holding small printed circuit boards for soldering) which is not particularly inexpensive (starting at around $25 and running up to around $75 for the super-size deluxe model,) but looks very promising. It's called the "QuadHands Magnetic WorkBench" system and comes in a variety of configurations and sizes. It consists of a flat heavy steel plate and bendable "gooseneck" arms with replaceable alligator clips with removable silicone jaw pads at one end (which can be rotated and locked in place) and rare earth "super-magnets" at their bases. The arms can be placed anywhere on the steel base place and bent as desired. I'll probably spring for one when I next have a bunch of small part soldering to do. I haven't seen one in the flesh as yet. If anybody has worked with one, a review would be welcomed. These have been widely copied by our Asian friends. The "real" QuadHands products are Made in the USA. (Additional "arms" of varying lengths may be purchased separately.)
 

https://www.quadhands.com/?rfsn=2886761.5f09cb&utm_source=refersion&utm_medium=influencers&utm_campaign=2886761.5f09cb
 
 

In using this construction technique, at what point does tumblehome become a problem in removing the planked hull from the plug? I recall the loss of tumblehome when yacht hulls began to be made of fiberglass, which didn't permit removing a hull with tumblehome from a mold unless the mold was constructed of two parts split down the centerline which could be disassembled and removed from each side. Is there enough "flex" in the planked up structure to "spread" the sides and "pop" the hull off the plug?

That works. Another trick, particularly if you have an adapter for each blade that needs one, is to place the blade flat on top of a flat surface with a piece of "non-stick" material, like a piece of tinfoil or plastic wrap. Place the adapter inside the blade center hole. Apply a sparing drop of glue to a couple or three evenly spaced points on the seam between the spacer and the blade. Pretty much any glue will do, with CA being the least preferable, but still acceptable. Let the glue dry. This attaches the spacer in the blade hole so that the blade can be easily placed on the arbor in the usual fashion. If the spacer needs to be removed, the lightly glued spacer can simply be broken free from the blade, if need be by tap with a small hammer. Such semi-permanent attachment also helps avoid losing the spacer and having to replace it (only to be found later!)

If making ship models required this level of carving

 
I'd have to give it up.
 
Amazing.
 

Arnold,
CA gluing the end of the line to be used as you mentioned above is a good thing to do, more so than using a wire threader.   Once the CA has dried, use a scalpel to slice it to create a sharp point.  I like the Swann Morton blades and holders, but there are others from which to choose as well.  Even the smallest line can be treated this way, yielding a needle point to push through the hole in the block.  

Use a new, sharp drill bit in a pin vise and don't force it. No powered drilling. Let the bit cut the wood. Expect to lose a few in any event due to weak grain in the wrong place.