Bob Cleek

Care has to be taken to keep dust from entering the enclosed space, and that will happen if care isn't taken. On the other hand, it is also good practice to allow some small amount of ventilation to allow air to circulate. This helps prevent acidic deterioration. Lastly, when providing for lighting, if any, take care to avoid heat buildup in the enclosed space. This is very important! a couple of forty watt bulbs can create a lot of heat and that can, over time, cause damage to a model. (I've restored a couple with significant deterioration from this mistake.)
 
Also, in designing a "built in" cabinet, allow for easy access to the model from time to time. Don't be surprised if you have to remove a cobweb or three now and again if an enterprising spider finds your model a cozy home.

I ordered this book after I saw it from Bob Filipowski.  Next year when I go visit my mother in Amsterdam, I am planning to visit the Rijksmuseum as well as the Maritime museum in Amsterdam.  Last time I was there naval areas were both closed and being renovated.
 
Marc

Shellac works quite well, if, indeed, a primer is needed at all. I've never sprayed it because I've always assumed that the atomization of it coming out of an airbrush would cause too great an evaporation rate for it to work, but perhaps it does. I've never had a bit of problem with 'steaks from brushing on." That's assuming that one isn't using too heavy a cut. (I usually apply it out of the can, which, with Zinsser, at least, is two pound cut, I believe.) I often don't brush shellac at all, actually. I just dip the piece into the can, remove it and give it a shake to remove the excess and then, if necessary, us the point of a paper towel to soak up the remaining shellac in the nooks and crannies. With wood, I do the same, wiping off the excess with a piece of paper towel. Shellac is the most forgiving of all coatings. If you mess it up, just dip it in some denatured alcohol ("meths") and wipe it off, let dry, and re-coat.
 
I've never noticed any adverse effects from alcohol vapors, although I don't spend a lot of time intentionally inhaling them and I always provide good ventilation out of concern for the hazards of combustion. In light of your comment and what I recall to be your background in chemistry, I looked it up and found that when alcohol vapors are inhaled, the alcohol  is absorbed in your lungs and completely bypasses your digestive system. Alcohol molecules are then transported directly from your lungs into your bloodstream and brain. Inhaling alcohol can harm the brain, lungs, and intoxicate someone very quickly. Apparently, it can be abused. When people smoke alcohol, they heat it up to intensify the vapor, or they pour it over dry ice, according to the literature . This makes a strong vapor which they inhale into their lungs. I worked for nearly a decade in San Quentin Prison and I have a professional background in substance abuse issues spanning close to fifty years at this point, so I thought I'd seen it all, but I've never heard of anyone "smoking" alcohol or pouring it over dry ice. (Convicts are quite creative in finding ways to intoxicate themselves, as you might imagine!  ) I suppose those are techniques employed to extract the alcohol from otherwise non-consumable sources such as hair tonic, mouthwash, or the like. Oddly enough, I've cooked a lot of meals aboard boats with alcohol stoves and never noticed any ill effects at all. I expect that while alcohol vapors are toxic, one needs to be exposed to a substantial amount of them in a high concentration to suffer any ill effects. As with all hazardous materials, commonsense is the user's first and most effective line of defense.

Shellac works quite well, if, indeed, a primer is needed at all. I've never sprayed it because I've always assumed that the atomization of it coming out of an airbrush would cause too great an evaporation rate for it to work, but perhaps it does. I've never had a bit of problem with 'steaks from brushing on." That's assuming that one isn't using too heavy a cut. (I usually apply it out of the can, which, with Zinsser, at least, is two pound cut, I believe.) I often don't brush shellac at all, actually. I just dip the piece into the can, remove it and give it a shake to remove the excess and then, if necessary, us the point of a paper towel to soak up the remaining shellac in the nooks and crannies. With wood, I do the same, wiping off the excess with a piece of paper towel. Shellac is the most forgiving of all coatings. If you mess it up, just dip it in some denatured alcohol ("meths") and wipe it off, let dry, and re-coat.
 
I've never noticed any adverse effects from alcohol vapors, although I don't spend a lot of time intentionally inhaling them and I always provide good ventilation out of concern for the hazards of combustion. In light of your comment and what I recall to be your background in chemistry, I looked it up and found that when alcohol vapors are inhaled, the alcohol  is absorbed in your lungs and completely bypasses your digestive system. Alcohol molecules are then transported directly from your lungs into your bloodstream and brain. Inhaling alcohol can harm the brain, lungs, and intoxicate someone very quickly. Apparently, it can be abused. When people smoke alcohol, they heat it up to intensify the vapor, or they pour it over dry ice, according to the literature . This makes a strong vapor which they inhale into their lungs. I worked for nearly a decade in San Quentin Prison and I have a professional background in substance abuse issues spanning close to fifty years at this point, so I thought I'd seen it all, but I've never heard of anyone "smoking" alcohol or pouring it over dry ice. (Convicts are quite creative in finding ways to intoxicate themselves, as you might imagine!  ) I suppose those are techniques employed to extract the alcohol from otherwise non-consumable sources such as hair tonic, mouthwash, or the like. Oddly enough, I've cooked a lot of meals aboard boats with alcohol stoves and never noticed any ill effects at all. I expect that while alcohol vapors are toxic, one needs to be exposed to a substantial amount of them in a high concentration to suffer any ill effects. As with all hazardous materials, commonsense is the user's first and most effective line of defense.

As fancy as you've gotten with that steam box, might I suggest that you cook up a good sour mash, let it ferment well, and put it in your steam generator. You'll be killing two birds with one stone that way.
 

Some (non-model) companies also sell acrylic emulsions without pigment as primers, but I have not been happy with the resulting surface.
 
Shellac would work, but one may still see streaks from brushing it on - due to the short drying time, spraying may be difficut and it requires good ventilation, as pure alcohol is used as medium.

Any experience on using dewaxed shellac as a brush on primer for small metal parts? Universally available
and supposedly compatible with many finishes.
Thanks
Bridgman Bob

I find that small parts that are not fingered don't actually need to be primed, that is, when you apply the paint with an airbrush. Just keep coats sparse.

As fancy as you've gotten with that steam box, might I suggest that you cook up a good sour mash, let it ferment well, and put it in your steam generator. You'll be killing two birds with one stone that way.
 

As fancy as you've gotten with that steam box, might I suggest that you cook up a good sour mash, let it ferment well, and put it in your steam generator. You'll be killing two birds with one stone that way.
 

Care has to be taken to keep dust from entering the enclosed space, and that will happen if care isn't taken. On the other hand, it is also good practice to allow some small amount of ventilation to allow air to circulate. This helps prevent acidic deterioration. Lastly, when providing for lighting, if any, take care to avoid heat buildup in the enclosed space. This is very important! a couple of forty watt bulbs can create a lot of heat and that can, over time, cause damage to a model. (I've restored a couple with significant deterioration from this mistake.)
 
Also, in designing a "built in" cabinet, allow for easy access to the model from time to time. Don't be surprised if you have to remove a cobweb or three now and again if an enterprising spider finds your model a cozy home.

They sell some handles with a lobe to one side, but the one's in many shops are the blister pack with their usual round metal handle. Tape a piece of a toothpick to the side if you want to stop them from rolling.

Hi all    i dont know if anybody uses this brush cleaner / preserver    but my son got me some at christmas this year and i have been using it with pretty good results so far (no connections to company)  its really easy to use  , i dont know where he got it  (off the internet i expect)  he and his friends use it all the time because they paint a lot of war game figures  and they use good/expensive brushes , so they want to keep them in good condition.    If you cant make out what it is from my poor photo its called     ORIGINAL B &J   THE MASTERS brush cleaner and preserver    it cleans oil,watercolour,acrylic and stain you might want to give it a try if you use good brushes     cheers     sticker

Care has to be taken to keep dust from entering the enclosed space, and that will happen if care isn't taken. On the other hand, it is also good practice to allow some small amount of ventilation to allow air to circulate. This helps prevent acidic deterioration. Lastly, when providing for lighting, if any, take care to avoid heat buildup in the enclosed space. This is very important! a couple of forty watt bulbs can create a lot of heat and that can, over time, cause damage to a model. (I've restored a couple with significant deterioration from this mistake.)
 
Also, in designing a "built in" cabinet, allow for easy access to the model from time to time. Don't be surprised if you have to remove a cobweb or three now and again if an enterprising spider finds your model a cozy home.

Care has to be taken to keep dust from entering the enclosed space, and that will happen if care isn't taken. On the other hand, it is also good practice to allow some small amount of ventilation to allow air to circulate. This helps prevent acidic deterioration. Lastly, when providing for lighting, if any, take care to avoid heat buildup in the enclosed space. This is very important! a couple of forty watt bulbs can create a lot of heat and that can, over time, cause damage to a model. (I've restored a couple with significant deterioration from this mistake.)
 
Also, in designing a "built in" cabinet, allow for easy access to the model from time to time. Don't be surprised if you have to remove a cobweb or three now and again if an enterprising spider finds your model a cozy home.

Care has to be taken to keep dust from entering the enclosed space, and that will happen if care isn't taken. On the other hand, it is also good practice to allow some small amount of ventilation to allow air to circulate. This helps prevent acidic deterioration. Lastly, when providing for lighting, if any, take care to avoid heat buildup in the enclosed space. This is very important! a couple of forty watt bulbs can create a lot of heat and that can, over time, cause damage to a model. (I've restored a couple with significant deterioration from this mistake.)
 
Also, in designing a "built in" cabinet, allow for easy access to the model from time to time. Don't be surprised if you have to remove a cobweb or three now and again if an enterprising spider finds your model a cozy home.

Care has to be taken to keep dust from entering the enclosed space, and that will happen if care isn't taken. On the other hand, it is also good practice to allow some small amount of ventilation to allow air to circulate. This helps prevent acidic deterioration. Lastly, when providing for lighting, if any, take care to avoid heat buildup in the enclosed space. This is very important! a couple of forty watt bulbs can create a lot of heat and that can, over time, cause damage to a model. (I've restored a couple with significant deterioration from this mistake.)
 
Also, in designing a "built in" cabinet, allow for easy access to the model from time to time. Don't be surprised if you have to remove a cobweb or three now and again if an enterprising spider finds your model a cozy home.

Care has to be taken to keep dust from entering the enclosed space, and that will happen if care isn't taken. On the other hand, it is also good practice to allow some small amount of ventilation to allow air to circulate. This helps prevent acidic deterioration. Lastly, when providing for lighting, if any, take care to avoid heat buildup in the enclosed space. This is very important! a couple of forty watt bulbs can create a lot of heat and that can, over time, cause damage to a model. (I've restored a couple with significant deterioration from this mistake.)
 
Also, in designing a "built in" cabinet, allow for easy access to the model from time to time. Don't be surprised if you have to remove a cobweb or three now and again if an enterprising spider finds your model a cozy home.

Care has to be taken to keep dust from entering the enclosed space, and that will happen if care isn't taken. On the other hand, it is also good practice to allow some small amount of ventilation to allow air to circulate. This helps prevent acidic deterioration. Lastly, when providing for lighting, if any, take care to avoid heat buildup in the enclosed space. This is very important! a couple of forty watt bulbs can create a lot of heat and that can, over time, cause damage to a model. (I've restored a couple with significant deterioration from this mistake.)
 
Also, in designing a "built in" cabinet, allow for easy access to the model from time to time. Don't be surprised if you have to remove a cobweb or three now and again if an enterprising spider finds your model a cozy home.

Decades ago, I had home just north of San Francisco, CA, which had a 14" high living room wall built of exposed Belgian blocks, recycled cobblestones from the streets of San Francisco. In earlier times, the ships would arrive in SF in ballast carrying Belgian blocks, unload the blocks and take on a cargo of grain for the return trip. The blocks were used to pave the streets. In later times, some of these cobblestone streets are still to be seen, although most have be asphalted over. The City now has an ordinance requiring that any cobblestones dug up in street repair belong to the City, which reuses them in parks and other landscaping applications. The cobblestone streets are famous, but their origins aren't commonly known.

Wow! This thing is starting to sound like it could be a game-changer, particularly for card stock modeling. 

That's a very reasonable price for the lot! That's just about everything Domanoff makes. Nobody would go wrong paying as much for the PROSAK 3.0. I wish I got this opportunity when I bought my PROSAK 3.0, even though I got a very fair deal on it used.

I've found a staircase maker's rasp very handy for rough shaping solid hulls:
 

 
https://www.mrmtool.com/10-Staircase-Makers-Rasp-•-Half-Round-Bent-Second-Cut_p_1142.html
 
A similar "hoof rasp" used by farriers is also, and probably more widely available.
 
 https://www.evohoofcare.com/Bar-Sole-Rasp-1_p_16.html
 
 

You should start here and then consider your options: 
 
As with any tool, you get what you pay for, generally speaking. A good, top of the line scroll saw will hold much of its value on the resale market if and when you decide to unload it. The run of the mill cheapos are a dime a dozen on the "flea market" web sites. The quality of a scroll saw is determined by its amount of vibration. The less, the better. The "double parallel arm scroll saws," are the best, due to their "double parallel arms." These are the top end options by Hegner, Sakura, Excalibur, and so on. (Brands you've never heard of probably because they are specialty items.) Reviewers of the lower end scroll saws give high marks to the Delta scroll saws.
 
Here's a 21" Sakura with stand for sale on eBay right now for $345.00 or "Best Offer." https://www.ebay.com/itm/113782374163?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=113782374163&targetid=1068323853510&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032112&poi=&campaignid=11612431611&mkgroupid=120003497904&rlsatarget=pla-1068323853510&abcId=9300456&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyJOBBhDCARIsAJG2h5dY_w4irzmnwSEWlnSwniDYB2IZ18AEQRrSB9mVCv4zUlfjTpAsrIIaAlGSEALw_wcB
 
If I was in the market for one myself, I'd be all over it like white on rice for that price. (This Sakura new is $800.00. A 22" Hegner runs $2,000.00 new. Both without a stand.) "Free local pickup," which makes you wonder why that being "free" is any big deal.  I came across this when I was looking for a picture of a top end scroll saw and noticed the very reasonable price. It's located in South San Francisco, so you could shoot up I-5 and pick it up yourself! (Okay, it's a five or six hour drive one way. Some of us do that on a fairly regular basis and even shipping shouldn't require taking out a second mortgage. ) 
 
 
 
Manufacturer's website: http://www.pswood.com/scroll-saws/ (They changed their name to PSWood Machines. They are made in the USA, but the original "Sakura" brand name sounded too Asian, I suspect. )
 

 

It's sure a beautiful piece of machining.