jimbyr

Scrubby

The best way to square the fence is with a dial indicator if you have one or have access to one. The first set of instructions is for an indicator. The second set is for the machinist square. 

Dial Indicator

1.  Remove the fence extension, four 4-40 cap screws located at the corners, use a 3/32 hex            wrench.

2.  Clamp indicator to miter or cut a piece of hard wood 1/2 by 6" so it fits in the miter slot nicely

    and fasten the indicator to the wood.

3.  Loosen the front four, 4-40 cap screws on the front of the fence bar with a 3/32 hex wrench.
   Do not loosen the back 2 screws.

4.  Slide the fence up against the indicator point until the indicator spins
   1 revolution and lock the front fence block with the brass thumbscrew.

5.  Reset the indicator bezel to "0"

6.  Slide the indicator down the fence as far as the blade center. Do not go
   past the blade center, the fence starts to taper at blade center.

7.  Tap the rear fence block until the indicator needle is back on "0"

8.  Snug the rear fence block brass thumbscrew.

9.  Recheck the fence with the indicator

10.  Adjust the rear block as necessary by tapping it with a soft mallet

11.  Recheck the fence with the indicator

12.  Lock the rear brass thumbscrew

13.  Recheck the fence

14.  Tighten the front 4 capscrews

15.  Recheck the fence

16.  Loosen the front and rear thumbscrews and slide the fence away from the
     indicator.

17.  Slide it back to the indicator and lock the front thumbscrew and recheck
     the fence
ALWAYS LOCK THE FRONT THUMBSCREW FIRST.
Machinist Square

1.  Remove the fence extension, four 4-40 cap screws located at the corners, use a 3/32 hex wrench.

2.   Loosen the front and rear brass thumb screws.

3.  Loosen the front four, 4-40 cap screws on the front of the fence bar with a 3/32 hex wrench.
   Do not loosen the back 2 screws.

4.  Place the machinist square up against the front of the table with the beam up against the fence.  Don't worry about the back of the fence not being up against the square,  it has a slight taper to it.  The fence starts tapering at the blade center.

5.   Snug the front and rear brass thumbscrew.  Always front first.

6.   Tighten the front four 4-40 cap screws

7.  Recheck the fence with the square.  If everything is square lock down the front 4-40 screws.  If not adjust the fence until it is square.

8.   Take a few test cuts on some scrap.

 ALWAYS LOCK THE FRONT THUMBSCREW FIRST.

regards

Jim

As far as pin vises go.....Starrett.  Not cheap but they'll last a lifetime and the drills won't fall out.  Moody also used to make a good set if they're still around.  

Jim

Anthony

Good chisels are expensive.  I have a full set of Pfeil intermediate chisels, expensive but I don't think there are any better than that.  Have had them for 25 years and still as sharp as new.  I also have a miniature set from the Russian fellow that sells them on this forum somewhere, they are also excellent.  My 3rd set is  from Lee Valley in Canada,  Hirsch micro carving chisels.  They are also excellent and I use them the most for all the tiny stuff. In my opinion, stay away from the cheap budget tools. 

regards

Jim

Jt

If you're building her as launched

"Uss Constitution Super Frigate of many Faces"  by William Bass........Hard to find

"A most Fortunate ship"  by Ty Martin

"The 44 Gun Frigate Uss Constitution"  by   Karl Heinz Marquardt

Jim

I use only Cleveland and Guhring Parabolic drills in the shop

Jim

This is a set of machinist angles on ebay.  You can set any angle with these up to 45 degrees, most sets usually have a 1/2 degree angle also.  They are 34 bucks

regards

Jim

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PC-CBL0306-Machinist-Angle-Gage-Block-Set-in-Box-Made-in-China/233797935287?hash=item366f7160b7:g:XxYAAOSwrEJfv86M

Auxiliary Tilting Table
            
To mount the tilt table on your saw you must first remove the fence extension if you have one.  The tilt table utilizes the same mounting and alignment holes.  Position the tilt table on the fence so the dowel pins are aligned with the corresponding holes on the fence.  Once you have it in place, insert the four 4/40 cap screws to secure the tilt table.  The fence should now move freely from 0 to 45 degrees.  To lock the tilt table at any angle, lock the two 8/32 cap screws at the pivot points front and back.  Two hex wrenches, 3/32 and 9/64, are supplied to install and lock the table at any angle.  

The tilt table does not have a scale on it to set the angle.  The best way to set the angle is with a set of machinist angle blocks.  If you do not have a set of machinist blocks, you can cut the desired angle on a piece of scrap wood using the miter on the regular table top.  Once you have the desired angle, place the block between the tilt table and regular table top and lock the pivots.

It is easier to use the tilt table if you mount the saw on an angled surface.  A 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 x 12" long cut diagonally works fine.  Cut the 2 wedges and screw them to a piece of 1/4" plywood.  Mount the saw on the fixture.     
 

Andreas

The rip fence which comes on the saw is 1/8 high or 3.175mm high and is used to rip planks.  There is a removable rip fence extension that raises the height to 3/4 or 19.05mm for cutting thick stock.  Since you are in Germany you should definitely get that option with the saw because if you order it later it's going to cost you 3 or 4 times the price of the extension just to have it shipped over there.  The taper gauge is used to rip tapers against the rip fence, it goes from 0-30 degrees.  The miter bar is the same size as the miter slide that comes on the saw and is used to make jigs.  The standard package for you guys overseas is the saw, rip fence extension,  metric mic stop and a few slitting blades.  Keep in mind that shipping is ridiculous overseas so the best thing to do is order everything you think you need or will need in the future with the saw because it will not raise the shipping.

regards

Jim

Model Machines  

Jack

They are for aligning the fence during assembly

Jim

Hans

She also sent it yesterday at noon.  Do you have another email address we can try

jim

Hans

Donna sent it again this morning to  h.oosterwaal@mcsi-holding.nl

let me know if you got it

jim

Hans, Donna just did a search and found where she issued a quote for the sliding table on 7 August w/options to pay.  She will forward this e-mail.

hans

What's your order #

Jim

Check Sherline,  they have a 4 jaw self centering with  that thread  $162.00

What is the mounting thread?

Jim

Since we opened up the website for 120V machines we have been swamped with orders.  Today I put together 24 saws and that's not all we are shipping this coming week. So...please be patient.  We'll get them out as soon as possible

thanks

Jim   

easily

Dave

If you're buying sheet stock anywhere from 1/32 to 3/8" the 3" .03 kerf slitting blade is the one you'll use most.  

regards

Jim

We order anywhere from 600-1000 at a time

Jim

Per

Yes we did

Jim

Finally motors are in.  The website should be open tonight for orders.  We will get the machines out as quickly as possible.  We appreciate your patience. go easy on us

regards

Jim

Richard

Here's the new one

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States–Mexico–Canada_Agreement

Richard

NAFTA expires in a few days.  They have a new system replacing it.  I have no clue as to what it will be like or the cost on your end.  But,  if you want to send the whole saw back I'll update it

Jim

We are now out of the 18" tables for now

Jim

Richard

2 days and it's back on it's way to you.  Are you sending the whole saw or just the table assembly

Jim