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Stuntflyer

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Everything posted by Stuntflyer

  1. Stuntflyer
    I think it looks great! I really like the shape work on the uprights. Mike
  2. Stuntflyer
    Frank, If you take the time to fix it now it will save you a few potential headaches down the road. As Ben mentioned, the frieze will fit better. Also, it will be much easier to get the drop that sits below the Quarter Galleries to fit against the hull. Mike
  3. Stuntflyer
    Frank, I got by here, but I did round off the bottom of the lower counter a bit to much. Refer to the plans to see the desired shape. You don't need to worry about the frieze fitting. Just try to shape the lower counter close to what is shown on the the plan drawing, Mike
  4. Stuntflyer
    Work continues on chapter nine with some of the forecastle planking completed. W-O-P has not been applied which makes it harder to see the butt joints. Hopefully you will see enough to get the idea. That center piece behind the bollards was made that way which makes it easier to hold. The grain runs port and starboard. This makes it easier to slice off that long tab after the glue dries. Mike
  5. Stuntflyer
    Ben, I agree with you. 1:48 is the way to go. Mike
  6. Stuntflyer
    I'm in on the POF build as soon as the Winnie is completed. I would probably go with boxwood. Don't want to burn up the laser which means I would have to scratch the framing. I'm looking forward to that. Exciting stuff ahead! Mike
  7. Stuntflyer
    Just my older Nikon D5100 with a 60mm f/2.8 macro lens. A tripod of course. Mike
  8. Stuntflyer
    Glenn, I used the Fruitwood gel stain. If you brush it on and then rub it off with your thumb, it won't "cake". Just leave enough on to get a change of color. You would be putting it on very thin so maybe two applications would be enough. Btw; using your finger to rub it off is a good way to leave the majority of the color in the recesses of the figure. It will give the figure a more three dimensional look. Mike
  9. Stuntflyer
    Yup! Your the first one to spot that. Those areas will be where the fenders are going. Mike
  10. Stuntflyer
    Moving onto chapter 9, I decided to start with the caprail along the waist. I've completed one side. What's interesting is what I had to do in order to get the caprail close to the scroll molding which it sits against at both ends. It was tricky and took some time to do. I'm happy with the result. Each end had to be shaped like this. . Mike
  11. Stuntflyer
    Glenn, Tom, Thomas, Thank you very much! Mike
  12. Stuntflyer
    Thank you, Chuck!
  13. Stuntflyer
    With chapter eight completed I thought it would be a good time to post some photos. Please excuse the dust. Mike
  14. Stuntflyer
    Fore bitt sheaves: Rather than trying to round off the existing laser cut sheave slots, I prefer to simulate the sheaves with wooded disks. There are 2 sheave slots on these bitts. One is 1/32" wide and the other is 3/64" wide. I used "plastic cutting" end mills to deepen the slots an additional 3/32". This allows for the disk to be recessed slightly after being inserted into the slot. Though not essential, I find that a milling machine makes things a lot easier when doing this kind of work. The diameter of the disks are equal to the length of the slot between the sheave holes. The thickness of the disks are the same as the width of the milled slot. This allows for a press fit into the slot without any gluing being necessary. If for some reason they are a tad loose going in, just brush in some W-O-P in order to hold the disk in place. After inserting the disk, the inside area should be painted black. Any paint that gets onto the face of the bitt can be sanded or scraped off easily with a #11 blade. For added protection you could give the outer area a coat of W-O-P to prevent the paint from seeping into the wood. The slot has been deepened an additional 3/32" which allows the disk to recess below the face of the bitt Note the orientation of the grain. This makes it easy to slice off the tiny section of the disk with a #11 blade. A helping hand to insert the disk into the slot Mike
  15. Stuntflyer
    Hi Steve, That’s interesting what you did with those stiffeners. Mike
  16. Stuntflyer
    Using Windsor and Newton, I mixed some yellow ochre, Raw sienna and burnt umber into white until the desired boxwood color was achieved.
  17. Stuntflyer
    I would be very disappointed if you decided to ease up on the level of detail that you have put into the parts for this build. Mike
  18. Stuntflyer
    The QD guns are smaller. I started working on the forecastle area of the ship. The first four beams are in along with lodging knees, hanging knees, carlings, cat tails and the manger. To my count there were 32 individual pieces needed for the work so far. The manger which consists of 12 pieces was assembled as one. A card stock template along with layered blue masking tape was used to establish the location for the boards which will sit on the deck. Btw, those char lines on the bowsprit step are no longer visible. They were blocked out with some boxwood color mix that was applied before painting the manger red. Also, those arrows show where I drilled for the next gun carriage. Mike
  19. Stuntflyer
    Nice progress and beautiful work as always. Attention to detail makes all the difference. Mike
  20. Stuntflyer
    I forgot to mention this in my last post. . I made the angle for the drain pipes by placing a drain on each side of a toothpick and then sanded the desired angle. Mike
  21. Stuntflyer
    Been working on the stove kit. Just want to say that Chuck has done a masterful job of precision cutting these parts. Everything fits with little or no sanding required. The stack has been thinned down at the top to about 1/64". I forgot to photograph the drain pan. Anyway, here it is ready for paint. Mike
  22. Stuntflyer
    Chain pumps. . . I decided to make the 4 Rhodings from 1/16" x 1/64" brass strip. The square portion of the crank handle is only 3mm in length. Any longer and I think they would look out of scale. After blackening the brass rod I used some weathering powder to age the look of the metal. After that I added the the decorative moulding to the forward edge of the breast beam. Then came the elm pumps and QD bulwark planking. For the carlings I made simple wood templates that fit between the beams in order to position the carlings equidistant from the center of the deck. Mike
  23. Stuntflyer
    Really nice work there! Love the colors too. So, what's next? Mike
  24. Stuntflyer
    Well, I really don't know, Brian. Perhaps Chuck or someone else will be able to give you the answer. Thanks for stopping by! Mike
  25. Stuntflyer
    Thanks, druxey!

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