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Stuntflyer

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Everything posted by Stuntflyer

  1. Stuntflyer
    Nice work, Frank! Are the two battens at the same position, height wise, at the stem? Mike
  2. Stuntflyer
    Yes, that's basically how I do it. I wrap the wire around the shank of a drill bit and then use a very fine blade on a fret saw to separate the rings. Mike
  3. Stuntflyer
    The eyebolts and split rings for the bulwarks and gun deck are done. Boy! I just love making those🤥 I made them as small as I could. The ID the bolts are around .025" which conforms to the smallest round nose pliar that I have. Just enough to get the 24ga rings through. Be careful not to drill too deep into the bulwarks against the plywood bulkheads. It wouldn't be hard to snap a bit if you did. Mike
  4. Stuntflyer
    Looking quite nice, Rusty! Interesting colors too. Mike
  5. Stuntflyer
    Thanks, Matt, I'd gladly do those lids anytime over having to do those pesky window sills. They were a pain!
  6. Stuntflyer
    I thought it might be a good time to get this post in as it covers a number of tasks that I've been working on. Starting with the gun port lids. The first step was to get these two planks fitting correctly The last plank is placed underneath so that the bottom edge can be traced The final result with all three planks in place When adding the frieze, the top section is cut away so it can be registered with the frieze below. Final result with lid lining attached, painted and ready for hinge Pinned cleats to the bulwarks. Transom windows and sills Mike
  7. Stuntflyer
    Chuck, How many of hanging knees need to be made? Mike
  8. Stuntflyer
    All the more reason now to keep things neat down below.
  9. Stuntflyer
    Nice, Chuck! That's an improvement from the last template I saw the other day at your place. The one that made it difficult to see anything down below. Mike
  10. Stuntflyer
    They do, though slight variations from those marks might occur when you set the batten. So, use the marks as a guide. Mike
  11. Stuntflyer
    Thank you all for the comments and likes. Very much appreciated! Mike
  12. Stuntflyer
    Ditto!
  13. Stuntflyer
    Over the weekend I worked on the rudder trunk and benches. Of course, Chuck's laser cut parts made things relatively easy. The tricky part was getting a tight fit between all the parts. The top of the rudder trunk needs to be angled where it sits up against the transom. I had to sand the bevel almost to a point in order to get a clean joint. When it came time to add the benches, I found that I needed to sand the bottoms slightly curved in order to match the camber in the margin plank. Further adjustments were made to insure that the benches did not sit on the deck. Mike
  14. Stuntflyer
    Correct!
  15. Stuntflyer
    How time flies! It's been over three years since I seized a block. I would have to start making them again so as to remember the way I did them. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Mike
  16. Stuntflyer
    Thanks!
  17. Stuntflyer
    After adding the two ring bolts to the rudders spectacle plate, I moved onto the the gudgeons and straps. These were made in the same way as I did for the rudder. The mill comes in handy for drilling the strap holes. 7 layers of masking tape give the right thickness to sand the gudgeon and strap down to 1/32" before tapering. The only working hinges are at the top and bottom of the rudder. The other three are faked by gluing the pintles into the gudgeons. Mike
  18. Stuntflyer
    Looks really nice, Frank! Mike
  19. Stuntflyer
    That looks great, Chuck. I was wondering what that last beam was going to look like. Actually it's much wider than I thought. Will you remove it before you paint the inside of the transom? Mike
  20. Stuntflyer
    Much to my surprise, Chuck was able to laser cut the rudder from 1/4" boxwood. From what I understand it took some experimentation with the settings in order to achieve a good result. I think that you will agree that he did a great job. The black painted straps were first thinned down to 1/32” and then tapered aft down to 1/64”. The strap bolts were made from 20lb mono and are press fitted deep into the drilled holes, but not bottomed out. No gluing necessary. I added only two hoops at the top of the rudder. These were made from a thick, pliable cardboard type material that I found in a package for a mini miter box. They were wrapped around the rudder in one piece and the ends joined at the leading edge so as not to be seen. The uppermost hoop was omitted as it will be hidden by the rudder trunk. I used a .010 brass strip to help in getting the bolts to stand proud consistently. I drilled an oversize hole in the strip. The hole was placed over the mono and then the mono was flush cut. Before removing the brass strip, I pushed down on the mono with a small dowel to make sure it was flush with the strip. Mike
  21. Stuntflyer
    Aha! Do over Mike doesn't feel so bad now. 😆
  22. Stuntflyer
    Well, I must say, you certainly have the longboat builds down pat. I've lost count on how many you have completed so far. Nicely done, Thomas! Mike
  23. Stuntflyer
    Will the Winnie have a ladder like this one. It looks like it's twisted in order to conform. Mike
  24. Stuntflyer
    Thanks so much guys for the nice compliments! I wish I could move along a bit faster but, I often find that the hurrier I go, the behinder I get. I guess I'll leave that for the experts. Mike
  25. Stuntflyer
    I've been working on a number of things such as the gun port lids, gun carriages, ladders and rudder. Today I finished the two ladders that go below the gun deck. The initial assembly was all about getting things square and locked up, using the two sides and top and bottom steps. Once done, I inserted the remaining steps. Each step needed to be beveled slightly on the bottom in order to fit into the side grooves. To keep things neat, I glued the steps to the sides from underneath the ladder with a tiny drop of slow drying 3 hour epoxy. The epoxy will eventually wick into the joint and not be seen when the ladder is installed. Once dry, I rounded off the top forward edge of each step and sanded the step overhangs flush with the sides of the ladder. After a coat of W-O-P the ladders were ready to install. The ladders position was established in such a way that the back and bottom of the sides are sitting flush to the coaming and deck below, respectively. Four layers of the green tape was used to mark the position of the ladders top. The blue tape makes it easy to hold onto the ladder while inserting it. When installing, center the top of the ladder within the coaming and up against the bottom of the green tape. Then lower the bottom of the ladder onto the deck below. Notice where I marked the position of the ladder on the green tape. Mike

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