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Stuntflyer

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Everything posted by Stuntflyer

  1. Stuntflyer
    Nice! Mike
  2. Stuntflyer
    Nicely done, Matthias! Mike
  3. Stuntflyer
    Don, I like to use wood strips about 1/16" x 3/8" x 10". I adhere sticky back sandpaper to one side that's usually around 180 grit. Works great for doing those long stretches along the hull. For the stern and bow areas I use rounded soft-sanders. http://www.softsanders.com/products/wood Mike
  4. Stuntflyer
    Looking good, Don. Take your time fairing those bulkheads and use the remaining char as a guide while doing so. There won't be much of it left after you are done. Mike
  5. Stuntflyer
    Thank you, Ken! Mike
  6. Stuntflyer
    Thank you all! No secret regarding the "perfect spirals". Those are laser etched by the master himself, Chuck. Mike
  7. Stuntflyer
    Chapter three is still a work in progress. I added the friezes to the ship. The sides of the hull were done in sequence while adding the middle molding along the waste and the laser etched molding along the forecastle and quarter deck. The QGallery roofs were painted dark gray and work has started on the QGallery columns and roof rail. The friezes were cut out with the aid of long ships curves. This worked out quite well and I can think of only one edge that had to be done by eye. For adhesion, I used the Elmers School glue stick. When using the stick, I made several passes over the frieze. I wanted to use enough glue to allow for positioning of the frieze before the glue starts to set which can happen quickly if applied to sparingly. 3-4 passes should be about right. A sharp #11 blade and a clean planking edge makes easy work of cutting the friezes around the inner edge of the gun ports, but only after the glue has dried. Here is where I'm at as of today. Mike
  8. Stuntflyer
    Beautiful work there, Thomas. Your attention to detail is inspiring. Mike
  9. Stuntflyer
    Looking good! Keep in mind that the friezes will cover some of the planked edges at the ports. The more even (straight) the planked edge, the easier it will be to cut the frieze. Mike
  10. Stuntflyer
    Nicely done, Rusty! Bet your glad that's over with. Now the fun part starts, Qgalleries. Mike
  11. Stuntflyer
    Looks great, Chuck! Nice to see those stern frames covered up. Mike
  12. Stuntflyer
    Its been an interesting couple of days. I managed to get one roof sanded to shape and then I added the tiles. The first row of tiles overhangs the roof slightly and touches the molding below. Other than the last tile at the end of each row, I did not reduce the tile widths. With each row, I set the the tops of the tiles to touch each other and then angled them as needed to align into a staggered pattern with the row below. Each row was sanded paper thin at the top and reduced to about a 1/64" at the bottom. Then the next row was added. I also added the molding that sits on top. The molding has the added benefit of cleaning up the edge of that last row of tiles. I will be painting the roof black and applying some weathering powder to tone down the color. Mike
  13. Stuntflyer
    Looking very good! Mike
  14. Stuntflyer
    Thank you very much for the kind words! I do enjoy the photography side of the build. Originally, I was shooting the photos against a beige painted wall in my apartment under 2500k incandescent. I never liked the lack of separation between the model and the background. While shopping for paint at the local Michaels store I found a 30x40 white stretched canvas. I tried using it as the background. It helped a lot especially after moving the shots to the workroom which has 3000k LEDs. Mike
  15. Stuntflyer
    I added the moldings that sit along the upper edge of the QGalleries. I left about 1/32" of the top of each window showing below the molding. The molding is straight across the top, so the roof should fit nicely on top. I still need to cut out the aft end of the moldings to make room for the figures. Mike
  16. Stuntflyer
    Just a quick update to my previous post. The bollards above the bottom molding will be painted black. To make things easier, I painted the area underneath the fancy molding before adding it. Looks like a bit of touch up is needed on the wales. Never noticed it until I saw the photo. Mike
  17. Stuntflyer
    Work continues on the QGalleries with both sides at the same state. The windows were not glued in. Doing so now, along with the clear acetate behind them, would only create a dust issue later on. Better to wait. I also managed to scrape the fancy hull moldings. The tape on the hull represents the location for the top edge of the bottom molding. That's the one that runs through the gun ports. I established its position by measuring down a set distance from the shear at the waste. From there I tried to run the tape with a smooth run the entire length of the hull while taking additional measurements. The tape gives a nice edge for setting the molding into position. Once a length of molding was in place I removed the tape from that section. Mike
  18. Stuntflyer
    Here are the tools I used for shaping the scraper. . https://www.gesswein.com/p-3534-ultra-thin-cut-off-discs-78.aspx http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_28 https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/409-15-16-cutting-wheels-36-pack Mike
  19. Stuntflyer
    Chuck, I have a question for you. In your photo, the top of the Qgallery (pie shaped piece) is on the line on the fore end and above the line on the aft end. How did you determine this to be the correct position? Mike
  20. Stuntflyer
    Thanks, Rusty and a belated thanks to everyone for the comments and "Likes". Mike
  21. Stuntflyer
    Time for another update. The fancy moldings that define the upper counter are done. Only one scraper was needed and it was made from a piece of .025 brass sheet. Making the scraper with such a tiny profile proved more difficult than I thought. I must have made 6 or more before finally getting it right. The last photo best shows the shape used. Using tape along with a pencil to darken the edge is an easy way to determine the proper shape for edge bending. Mike
  22. Stuntflyer
    I took a break from the Qgalleries in order to get the lower counter molding done. First, I needed to clean up the wale edges at the counter and paint them black. The molding was scraped using a piece of thin brass sheet. There is a slight curvature to these which is easily formed with dry heat edge bending. For reference you will find the sterndrawing.pdf file in the chapter 3 discussion. Placing them by eye onto the transom would have been tricky, so I stacked several layers of masking tape together which was used for alignment when gluing them on. Those thin pieces of green tape were used as pull hinges to expose the underside of the molding when applying the glue. Mike
  23. Stuntflyer
    Looks just great, Thomas. I'm amazed that you were willing to make another one. Looking forward to seeing it in final finish. Mike
  24. Stuntflyer
    Taken from Winchelseasheet2.pdf, here is the angle that you should shoot for. The model should to be on the build board and in a vertical position when setting the frames. I used some card stock cut to the angle shown below. View the frames straight on from the side, making sure that the aft edges of all the frames are at this angle and also parallel to one another before the glue sets. Mike
  25. Stuntflyer
    The seats are finished. The one on the starboard side was done after planking the stool. Getting a good fit all around required a number of angles being worked into the seat. I used a dowel to hold the seat when checking for fit and to hold it into position while the glue set. When it came to doing the one on the port side, I decided to do things differently. This time I installed the seat before planking the stool. That meant I didn't have to work the two outside angles for fit. Once the seat was glued, I simply faired the outer edge of the seat. Mike

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