Beef Wellington

Another minor update...
 
Last night I filled the gap between the (castello) boxwood beakhead replacement and the false keel, and this morning I sanded it smooth, narrowing the beakhead a little so it tapers as it goes down towards the keel. I also took the opportunity to smooth the beakhead a little so it's a curved profile at the front. Once that was done, I was able to finish the coppering on the starboard side... (phew!) I'm glad this hull isn't any bigger - all those Agamemnon builders have my respect - their patience is considerable! That said, I find coppering fairly enjoyable once I got into the swing of it.
 
It isn't perfect, and there are far better examples on this site, but I'm really happy with it.
 


 

 
I might start on the quarter galleries before I copper the other side - I fancy doing something different for a bit!
 
Rob

Hi Guys!
 
Some more progress to report.
 
I did some scratchbuilding on the bulkhead. Based on the works of jean boudriot. Not easy but I like it! It still needs 2 extra timberheads but Ill get there in due time. This is how it looked before.
 

And this is how it looks now:
 


Also the other railings are attached. Fit was not great. but that is an issue that comes back a lot in this kit. It seems some parts are warped or bent. Just an old kit I guess.
 


I also made a little investment in turned brass cannon barrels to replace the kit barrels of the 8 pounder cannons. This is how it looks unpained/unblackened:
 

A big improvement on the kit pieces:
 

Stay Tuned!

test bed for dummies
 
Two leftover parts from the 5mm sheet with the frames were put together to simulate the profile of the ships side; a strip similar to the strips holding the dummy guns was installed and the whole thing roughly planked.
A first trial dummy carriage was put together from three simple parts and painted red.
The installation on the test bed went easily and the overall impression is quite acceptable and an definite improvement. The really tricky part was the installation of the (very rough) gun port frame in 4 separate pieces which showed that even a limited access to the inner sides was desirable. However after already having broken off two upper pieces of the frames I put in both inner walls on the lower gun deck before going on. This should add some stability and I will leave off the lower gun deck for the time being.

 
the test bed

 
 
 
 
 
Slightly reworked gun carriage for the upper gun deck and dummy carriage for the lower

 
 
gun port with dummy carriage added in the second picture

Looks great Mark, nice to see some progress again.  Looks to be lots of interesting (i.e. challenging) angles at the bow there.

I spent some time remarking the waterline (somehow, it was way off!) and then fixing a thin boxwood strip in place to make sure it was neat... the copper runs up to this plate. The waterline was marked by attaching the hull right way up to the table with masking tape (with a 6mm block under the keel at the bow to get the waterline level as per AOTS plans), and then using a sturdy tin with a retractable pencil attached to it to slide around the hull and make the mark. The benefit of a retractable pencil is that when you get to the stern overhang, you can extend the pencil led (carefully) and keep on marking... Otherwise the hull gets in the way. It isn't sophisticated, but it works for me. A whole evening was spent making sure the strips were in just the right place.
 

 
The coppering continues, but as I reached the bow it became necessary to finally fix the boxwood beakhead in place, checking the angle of the bowsprit as I went (using an x-acto knife handle.) I wasn't happy with the coppering lines at the stern, so lifted 20 or so copper tiles and re-laid them.



 

 
And finally... I was walking past Sherborne a couple of days ago, and the morning sun was coming in through the window, and it looked like this... a strong argument for putting sails on your models?
 

 
Have a blessed Christmas!
 
 
 

Bob, BE, Pat, Michael, Carl and the likes, thanks for sticking in there, and the kind words.
 
Joe - Not my idea at all on the channels, its laid out like that in the FFM which I've been referring to.  More work but seems a more elegant solution but grounded in reality than the kit solutions of just attaching to the outside face which doesn't quite look right when you have the curves at the ends.  One thing I realized I didn't do was to angle the slots according to the expected angle of the chains but hopefully that's not going to be too big a deal. May still have some wiggle room to something there but no need to worry about that yet.

A little more progress - The ship`s boat which was built earlier is now in place along with the anchors. The pulley hanging from the cathead was made by using a 7mm triple block with a copper strip bent around it & soldered shut. Then I soldered a hook to the copper strip to hang the anchor on. Also got all the upper yard braces on. Next will be the fore & main yard braces,sheets,& tacks.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Mark
 
 
 
 

Update :
 
made a sequence I was a bit anxious for all the time, drilling the holes for the 14 gunports.....hoping that the hull planks would not fringe out...
Solution : I bought a 8 mm diam. hollow tube drill with diamond splitters around the cutting edge and used this with my electronic hand-drill at appr. 2000 rpm....
first I made a small jig to set the vertical centerline and to find the mid position between the bulwark supports. On the outside bulwark I fitted / clamped a bit of scrap ply, flush contact with the hull planks in that area. Sigh of relief , it went well, wonderfull sharpedged holes
On the battle side the guns have a few degrees over horizontal, with upward pionting barrel. On the non battle side there will be shield plugs inserted with lions head decore from the outside bulwark. Those guns will be retracted with barrels pointing upward and stropped, out of action, just below the upper bulwark rail.
 
Think that the smaller holes for sticking the sweeps through can also be made in this way for clean cuts....
 
Nils
 

just before cuttung the gunports into the bulwarks

 
 

the 8mm diamond splitter tipped hollow drill
 

the clamp holds the little jig on the inside as well as the ply counter-plate on the outside planks
 

 
 

battle side, the gunbarrel can be set to point ot horizontal and  sightly upwards
 

non battle side with closed gunports (here shown without the larger  decore rings). The plug shields are removeable
 

here gun retracted from action and barrel pionting upward
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for all the likes and comments.
 
Here are the two forward platforms, foremast step and the upper and lower breasthooks installed.
 
ben

Not perfect will need to tidy up a few things but making some progress

Here is the RFA Gray Rover and HMS Britomart with 'little friends' Unfortunatly both ships were sunk, Bretomart by friendly fire.
jim

Thanks Pat. I did this for a friend who worked for a while,taking Timber to the beach on the Island of Mull, wher it was loaded like this.
Jim 
One of my favourites. If it wasn't for these guys 'The Few'would have been even fewer and flying Gliders!
 
Keeping the Spitfires flying
HMCS Chilliwack heads for a burning tanker in a North Atlantic convoy. The supply of oil was vital for the war effort
Watercolour 16 X 9 inches

Good evening everyone

more progress made this weekend

but i think i went a bit over the top on the decking, so i may take some of it out and go to steel plates, i will wait for the rivet counters to rip my head off (on F/ that is)

this is the bit I may have to do again, even though i dont think it looks out of place, This Vessels had a lot of wooden decks


having done lots of sanding i applied a rattle can to the Signal deck area, this now shows the bits left to be resanded



Search light pedistals


the square platform is the area for the binacle



some lighting going in, you can still see the areas that need working on, with filler and sanding


   

Nice updates Bob, such clean work on the masts and rigging.  Pleasure to watch and learn.

Aft platform and mizzenmast step completed and installed.
The tenons for the carlings and ledges were fun to make at their size with a good fit.
 
ben

Nice updates Bob, such clean work on the masts and rigging.  Pleasure to watch and learn.

Nice updates Bob, such clean work on the masts and rigging.  Pleasure to watch and learn.

Nice updates Bob, such clean work on the masts and rigging.  Pleasure to watch and learn.

Nice updates Bob, such clean work on the masts and rigging.  Pleasure to watch and learn.

Nice updates Bob, such clean work on the masts and rigging.  Pleasure to watch and learn.

Wonderful work Jason. Well worth the wait to see it.
 
Bob

Jason,
Great idea leaving a lip for their capping strip on the channel so it all flows smoothly once that is in place, particularly with the rounded edges. Subtle but, makes a difference. 

Nice progress Jason, very pleasing to my eye. 
 
B.E.

Nicely detailed work Jason; everything fits well and looks great.
 
cheers
 
Pat

"forgive me father its been 700 days since I've looked at the instructions or used a kit part"  
Yes indeed nice update.