vossiewulf
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Everything posted by vossiewulf
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As a class of tools they're called ring clamps and they're indeed very useful for holding small objects that need to be filed/cut/manipulated. I have one with a wedge that you drive into the far end of the clamp and that can generate considerable clamping force. I also think a ring clamp would be worth trying for holding your scrollwork. -
That's a good beginner choice. Lots of Aussies around here
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Welcome to MSW! Excellent choice on a starting point.
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Dye stains are mostly surface and will sand away very easily except on end grain, and they can be painted or sprayed on as they're just dye powder mixed with ethanol. Speaking of which, I recommend dye stains from luthier manufacturers, you want stains designed for thousand dollar instruments. They're not expensive, if you're really interested in options you should get some to add to your experimental program. I really like dye stains for their translucency, you still get the wood grain and figure even with the stain.
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I'd suggest either a wash using oil paints and turpentine or using alcohol based dye stains. Neither will bother your white glue.
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That appears to be a good beginner kit, the planking looks to be simple.
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Yards and booms all done ready for rigging. And the topmast done except for paint. The little knob thing on top of the mast was made separately and attached to the mast via a reinforcing carbon fiber rod. Just need to make the main mast and we're fully go on rigging Lady Nelson. Actually I will probably follow Chuck's instructions and rig the bowsprit before making the main mast.
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Advice on French 2nd or 3rd rate ship of the line
vossiewulf replied to James Flynn's topic in Wood ship model kits
Ancre Monographs, they have several books on ships of the line, I saw at least one Napoleonic three decker in there. -
I used Faber Castell archival India ink markers to do the black on LN. It worked well and was easy and left a film thickness that is much more scale than a coat of paint.
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I'm not sure either without a drill press that can handle #61 bits. The problem with the narrow strip is that it's really hard to mark it enough to prevent the drill bit from skating without also distorting the strip. Not to mention distorting the strip in the actual drilling. I think you used magic. Did you use magic?
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Welcome back!
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The starting grit is defined by how rough the material is, and deck planking shouldn't be very rough. You should be able to sand your deck reasonably using 220 and 400 grit sandpapers.
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And go to Domex Hardwoods for holly lumber. As I understand it, most of the holly lumber in the US passes through Domex and they have the best selection.
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Hmm I contacted him before Christmas and he said he could do holly strips as a special order. Try emailing him and asking.
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A micromotor is a very good tool to have and the Nakanishi is excellent. It's so quiet that it can be running at 10k rpm and you can't hear it at all, and it has plenty of torque. Basically brushless micromotors are highly improved Dremels, smaller, lighter, higher rpm, torquier, just better all around. Only problem is they're pretty expensive but if you get one, I promise you won't regret it.
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Handles much more in scale, looks great Keith.
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BTW your best plan is to start a build log so you can ask ship-specific questions and get help from lots of people.
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Yes. if you glued something with CA, it's not coming off again, trim it off and make a new piece you can glue on correctly. I'll let others answer the planking questions, as I did my planking in a totally different way involving tapering the planks once they're already on the ship. But it requires very sharp matching single-bevel knives to work, so it's not something I would recommend to most builders.
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Some progress using the Servomatic. I can't say it's quick but that's because I am using very fine serving thread. After spending a few hours with it, I think the Servomatic is well worth the $60 or so that it costs. But first, my tool addiction demanded I buy these cool baby Japanese saws from Lee Valley. They're made just like the full sized versions so they should last quite a while. Now back to the thimbles that I made out of 1.2mm OD brass tube a couple weeks ago, I blackened them so they're ready to go. And two fully served jib guys, or at least that's what they're going to be. And we bring them together and we have thimbles at 1/64. I'm sure I couldn't do them at any smaller scale.
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Your Lady Nelson is a very nice model, you just built yours more out of the box than me Keep at it! Thanks! As for putting some twist on the line, I'll try that, thanks
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The weight of the machines pretty much tells the tale, the Little Machine Shop 3990 is a serious machine that can do serious machining with sub-.001" accuracy and is power-feed and DRO ready. Yes 124lbs, 177 ship weight. It's a two man job to move it in its crate and it will come covered in oil that needs to be first stripped.
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Yes, that is the Little Machine Shop exclusive HiTorque version of the original Sieg mini-mill. Compared to the Sieg, the HiTorque has a 500 watt motor vs the 350 of the Sieg, and has belt drive vs. gears, which is much quieter. My MicroLux version of the Sieg just died recently after about 15 years and I'm replacing it with the model 3990 HiTorque milling machine. Another advantage of going this direction is that these mills have standard tapers on the spindle and standard T-slots and the like so you can buy tooling anywhere. If you're starting from scratch and I think OP is, assume another $300-$500 of stuff you need along with the mill to be fully operational. And of course my previous caveat of this only makes sense if you intend to do scratchbuilding/kitbashing still holds.
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It depends on what you're going to do. If you intend to do lots of kitbashing and scratch work, you will want a lathe for its machining capabilities. Note Erik W uses his Proxxon mill on joinery in his very excellent Cheerful, for example. OTOH if you're just assembling kits using the kit parts, you probably don't need a mill and can get away with just having a small drill press.
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