vossiewulf
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Thanks Dan! Can you show me a pic of the pins made from tube? I have some small scale tube coming but I'm having a hard time visualizing how to use tube for the chainplate pins. -
Progress is not blazing, but I finished the jib boom sans rigging. Well, a Cheerful jib boom, per plans from Chuck. Used styrene and brass wire to model the iron band at the end of the boom with eyes for the guys and stays. And I drilled and carved a sheave into the end. I think I used too big a drill making the sheave wider than it should be, but it's close enough for a first effort. And the other end is a good fit for the bits and the cutout in the bow. Still waiting for some brass nails small enough to anchor the chainplates against the hull, and I'm probably going to order a new mill this week. Next up is the mainmast, following the Cheerful instructions.
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The Micro Mark one claims to be specifically for wood but it says it is simply a jeweler's drawplate. Which implies those for wire will work as well for wood. But I'm not certain on that, I have the Byrnes one.
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Yes they do but they're about two or three time as expensive as the Micro Mark version. On the up side you can be sure they'll work very well. But yes Otto Frei, Contenti, Rio Grande all have drawplates. Actually Contenti carries some in the same range as the Micro Mark.
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Micro Mark sells one. No idea how it compares with the Byrnes, but at $54 it better work reasonably well.
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Try professional jeweler's bits, they are of much higher quality than anything MicroMark sells, and unfortunately the price reflects that. That said, scroll down where there are Swiss Tungsten Vanadium sets for $49 and I saw a cobalt steel set for $59, https://www.ottofrei.com/collections/burs-drills?pf_t_types=types%3AAll+Drills It's always painful to buy something like a nice set of drills but you get drills that actually work and work for a veery long time, so the investment is worth it.
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I'm so sorry Greg, always very hard to lose such close friends.
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I'm sorry Rusty, it's always so hard when we lose our dockyard supervisors
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Beautiful!
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Welcome Swimmer! Nice to see a Tsushima era build.
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Welcome Ian!
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Well set up my milling machine to drill some holes through the newly-tapered jib boom and nothing happened when I turned the speed pot. Nada. Fuses are ok and all connections look good, power is getting to the main board (the cooling fan comes on) but when I try to spin it up the amber light on the power box comes one and nothing happens with the mill spindle. Looks to me like the motor is dead somehow. It's 20 years old or so, I'm inclined to get a new high-torque (more capable) machine from Little Machine Shop. Either way, it's another roadblock. Grrrr.
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Byrnes saw should be good and parallel, I only get burning on mine if the stock wiggles against the fence or I don't maintain a steady feed speed. However an even better choice I think is the little jig created by the NRG for Byrnes saws that lets you cut strips on the outboard side of the blade. I don't know about you but I find it hard to not have the stock wiggle against the fence towards the end of the sheet, causing a mark on the desired piece. This jig avoids that problem.
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Also check to see if your blade is dead parallel to the rip fence. A dial indicator is handy for this.
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best SECOND model ship kit recommendations
vossiewulf replied to palmerit's topic in Wood ship model kits
You shouldn't avoid CA, it is an excellent glue and in fact I have used CA for everything in my LN. I only use aliphatic resin glue when I have some part that needs lots of fiddling before clamping. As for finishes I prefer lacquers from luthier supply companies. The lacquers are very very clear and we're never spraying enough that high VOC lacquer spraying is a problem, I just use a mask when actively spraying. -
best SECOND model ship kit recommendations
vossiewulf replied to palmerit's topic in Wood ship model kits
One of the primary rules is the less glue you use, the better. And very little is needed if you're using CA or titebond-like glues that are designed to hold joints together on full-size furniture. Try it, the number of headaches you have will instantly drop. Also, French polish is a very specialized finishing technique primarily designed for making very level finishes on flat surfaces. It's not something you want to be doing on boats. Be simple, and for now use wipe-on-poly, you can get it anywhere. Application is easy and it's hard to have a disaster. Don't get me wrong I think there are much better options if you can spray a finish on, but wipe on poly will give you a perfectly acceptable finish. -
Hang in there Chuck, keep the new shop and how awesome it's going to be in mind when going through the weeks of slogging through everything that has to happen. If you can set a goal date for when the new shop will be fully operational, and make a mental advent calendar that ticks down to that date. Sometimes it helps to measure just how close the light at the end of the tunnel is
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Thanks Dan! Looking forward to you continuing your log too, you have a nice LN also.
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Thanks Chuck for answering, we really appreciate it. Maybe Chris will chime in later about why the Sherbourne and the Lady Nelson have three yards.
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Curiouser and curiouser... @Chuck, why does the contemporary model of the Cheerful have three yards while your rigging plan only calls for two? We are trying to understand cutter rigging plans and not having much luck. Sometimes (@chris watton's Lady Nelson, HMS Sherbourne, the contemporary model of Cheerful) we have three yards on two masts, in other cases (Chuck's rigging plan for modern Cheerful models, Lennarth Petersson's rig in his Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft book) we have just two yards. Was the third yard a light wind rig that wasn't there all the time as Phil suggests? Or are three and two-yard cutter rigs fundamentally different things?
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Welcome to MSW Lars!
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Some in process photos, one of those days when you don't quite finish anything. I have Lady Nelson up on my GRS engraver's block again. It's an extravagance but one I bought 20 years ago so it's amortized nicely. I honestly don't know how some of these guys do the phenomenal work that they do without an engraver's block to hold and spin and twist the subject with. Anyway, starting to mount the lower deadeyes. The chainplate is pretty generic but I don't want to scratchbuild yet another thing so I'm going with them. They look pretty nasty right now with most of the black off from the rough handling of bending them. They will have to be touched up with black paint but not until they're tacked down and I can't find the brass nails that came with the kit, so I ordered some- another wait for a week or so before I can wrap this up. On the good side, the four jaw chuck key came today, so I started working on the masting, going first with the jib boom. Got tired, so stopped here. Tomorrow will finish off the jib boom and start working on the mainmast. BTW, I am using Castillo boxwood for the masts and yards, I really like the almost invisible grain and figure on the wood I got from Jason @Crown Timberyard, too bad he closed down.
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Yes if the wood tears out the fix is to switch the direction of planing.
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