Jump to content

vossiewulf

NRG Member
  • Posts

    1,477
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by vossiewulf

  1. Dan, the thing about replacing the cannon with something larger is that the guns will no longer be centered in the gunports. I bought some bigger guns to try, but I ended up using the kit guns because I didn't like how the bigger guns were up at the top of the gunports, just didn't look right to me. You may have a different view, just letting you know the factor that made me keep the kit guns. If you look for other guns I'd recommend pinging Chris Watton like Andrew suggested and see if you can get some of his 1:64 Alert guns as those would most likely to fit.
  2. I'm betting he duct taped the phone to his forehead and used his nose to take the photo.
  3. I'm in Charlottesville, I've seen a few other VA modelers.
  4. Thanks Mark, you have a nice setup and process there, much better on the organization of the blades than I am. I think I might borrow the way you're doing it. Also I am unhappy with my bench pin as well, I will go look at the Knew Concepts one, I haven't seen that before. For everyone else reading, stop by the Knew Concepts shop and take a look around they have very good tools, as Mark is showing you can do some very good work with them
  5. I have the Knew Concepts saw, it's a real joy to use. The cam tensioning is an order of magnitude easier than the I need three hands standard saw method.
  6. Welcome John! Ships are kind of the final boss on the modeling tree, the challenge ranges from "hmm that's tricky" to "OMG I think my eyes are bleeding" Have fun and go slow and read others' build logs to see what tools and techniques they're using, there are some extraordinarily good builders here.
  7. Chris the problem is as I pointed out at Drydock Models there are new manufacturer names popping up. If the NRG is serious about its stance it needs to one track manufacturers and identify the pirates and two keep the published list up to date.
  8. They're made of thin spring steel coated in diamond abrasive, making their lifespan essentially indefinite when used only on wood. So they're a bit fancier than a strip of sandpaper.
  9. Actually I think it's fine if you have a build log for the locomotive here, it just has to be in the Non-Ship/Categorized Builds Forum, look under The Crew's Lounge.
  10. I buy the big 8oz bottles of glue from Bob Smith Industries and keep them in my fridge. I just had to replace them all because I moved, but the previous bottles had lasted for 8 years. I'm very careful dispensing glue from the bottles to my tattooist ink cups, and generally a quick wipe from a finger or a piece of cloth removes any excess.
  11. You keep the superglue bottle in your refrigerator. It won't go off in the bottle and stick the cap.
  12. First, Second your English is just fine Third, looks like you've made a good cautious start!
  13. Sorry to be posting this post facto but I would have suggested G&S watch crystal cement. It's used by watchmakers and jewelers as a clear, non-fogging generalized glue that will glue just about anything together. I've had it in my glue supplies for a long time for applications like yours.
  14. As long as the shorter base is reasonably stable, I see no reason to lengthen it. And lengthening it would just draw the eye away from the boat, where you want it. Well wait only thing that I'm questioning about this base is it seems the overhang of the model on the base is longer on the bow than the stern, although that may just be parallax in the photo. If the overhang is not equal, I'd suggest making a base with the overhang symmetrical, as that would be most pleasing to the eye.
×
×
  • Create New...