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vossiewulf

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Everything posted by vossiewulf

  1. vossiewulf
    Very nice Gaetan, it looks great, and that's a nice handle wood too. The square point is a little unusual, but if it doesn't interfere with your cuts it certainly adds more strength overall. That's interesting about the sparks, the spark stream is a standard metal composition test that is usually pretty accurate. Are the sparks less than those when you are grinding HSS?
  2. vossiewulf
    Glad you had fun reading it. As far as I know Mikhail doesn't have a web site, he doesn't really need to advertise- word of mouth keeps him fully busy. He only has a few options anyway, mostly having to do with the number of tools and the handle type, he does palm or pen handle. Send me a PM and I'll dig up his email address if you don't have it. as far as I can see, what is correct is the block having a seized eye to which the eye hook is attached. If someone can show me an alternative arrangement being used I'd be happy to do that. Thanks It looks like Tony has provided some good drawings and pics, hopefully those will resolve the confusion for me. Thanks Tony, very helpful
  3. vossiewulf
    I made up one set of blocks and hooks, and although the hooks are as small as I can make them without going to more extreme measures (as you will see I already filed down one tip of round-nose pliers as far as I could), I'm not going to be able to fit these tackles as there just isn't enough room- even with the guns run out, the blocks would be butting up against each other. I'll look and see if anyone has photoetched eye hooks that are small enough and maybe grab some 32 gauge wire and figure out if I can make them smaller, but otherwise this was good practice for the rigging since nothing I need to do there will be as small and fiddly as this was.
  4. vossiewulf
    She should be very pretty with the radical French hull form. Wasn't this one of the non-Sané designs? I seem to remember there was one guy who particularly favored the angular hull forms. I have Boudriot's book on French frigates, I should go look it up.
  5. vossiewulf
    It doesn't matter how many parts there are, assembling or mounting or whatever for each one of those parts is relatively straightforward. In this case the only parts that matter to you now are the bulkheads and the keel plate. They fit together with slots. Your first task is to assemble those bulkheads onto the keel plate and glue them so they are square to the keel plate. Worry about the next set of parts after you get that done.
  6. vossiewulf
    Great news Gaetan! I will be very interested to see how it turns out.
  7. vossiewulf
    Perfect seems inadequate, I'm going with "uber spiffy perfectomundo".
  8. vossiewulf
    Use the forum search field above to search for other build logs of Bluenose. There are many, pick a couple that did a very good job and read all the way through, doing so will make your build go much more smoothly.
  9. vossiewulf
    Thanks Rick, yes oodles V2 using my new hyper-advanced 2mm block-stropping jig, which consists of two pieces of carbon fiber rod thinned down to .007" and stuck into a piece of basswood. Actually I guess it's semi-advanced because I know of no material other than CF that could do this, only CF has the rigidity and strength, next closest being music wire. But you'd have to have .007" on hand and it would be much more bendy. Trust me you want to have some CF rod in different sizes someplace on your workbench! Anyway, V2 looks better but still with too much glue. V3 and onward should be usable.
  10. vossiewulf
    They are hard to find at a reasonable cost (they keep getting more expensive for some reason), and only work for small to medium-sized ships, but given those caveats an engraver's block (correct term) or ball vise (slang term) is really excellent for building. You can basically fix the ship in any position or twirl it around in your hand as called for.
  11. vossiewulf
    Doris is spooky good, and has invented a method of ship modeling that is unique to her and which uses only very simple tools.
  12. vossiewulf
    Thanks Rick. My question is more about how they lashed the anchor up to stow it rather than the knot on the anchor; as that thread shows, there seem to have been only three or four options for knots, largely based on the size of the anchor. I really don't know much about how lashings were done other than lots of winds around, and was the double block that runs to the cathead there all the time, or just when they were fishing the anchor? I have some drawings of stowed anchors, but they're big bowyer anchors on ships of the line and I imagine the practice in cutters was somewhat different. The evil @Chuck sent me very nice 2mm blocks, they have the same quality as the larger blocks. I can see how they're made, but I'm not sure how they're made without turning Chuck into a gibbering lunatic. I strung them on .008 line to prevent losing them one by one, this way I can lose them all in one shot Anyway, he's forced me into serving .008" line and stropping 2mm blocks because they're the perfect size for a 3 pounder gun tackle. My first effort below was marginal, need to figure out better ways to do a couple steps. This may take a while
  13. vossiewulf
    Thanks Rick, with all the books on rigging I thought it wouldn't be hard to find, but it seems there isn't much coverage of anchors for smaller ships.
  14. vossiewulf
    Nice shooting board.
  15. vossiewulf
    Can anyone tell me where to find good drawings/pics of how to rig an anchor on a cutter? What little I can find on anchor rigging mostly focuses on the individual knots and if a stowed anchor is shown, it's for a big ship where the anchors were lashed to the fore channels. The best I can find is one of Tony's contemporary model pics, but I'm unclear about the double block on the cathead and it doesn't show how the buoy would have been stowed. It also have a very odd-looking knot on the anchor cable, not being an anchor clinch or anchor bend that are supposed to be used.
  16. vossiewulf
    Looks like a nice sturdy machine, nice job.
  17. vossiewulf
    Yeah when I bought mine about 12 years ago I had to do some serious internal rationalization to be willing to pay $350 for it. Now they're above $600 for no apparent reason and out of the range of anyone but professional jewelers. They're hardly complex devices, they have a vise plus to the two halves are joined by a big ball bearing, and then the bottom is filled with lead, so the Chinese shouldn't have a hard time making a decent one- if I didn't have one that is what I would do, look for one at $200 or so on EBay from China. Thanks Sam, ok I will give it a try, I have waxed thread in my fly tying stuff too.
  18. vossiewulf
    Pat, the correct descriptive term is engraver's block, although many call it a ball vise, and mine is from GRS and it's their standard model (6"). Unfortunately they have become pretty stupid expensive. I would recommend looking on EBay either for a used GRS or a new Pepe brand. Sam, I haven't received the fly head cement yet, I'm using CA here and dabbing it with a fingertip to prevent it from forming a gloss coat. However the result is quite stiff of course and that's not very helpful in most cases, so I'm going to try both a flexible CA and the flexible fly tying cement to see if either of those work better. WRT waxed vs. unwaxed, the thread does have a tendency to come apart but not so much that it strays out of the width of the stripe I am winding about the line. So that's ok to me, I'm using unwaxed because I assume gluing the waxed version isn't going to work nearly as well, although I haven't tried it.
  19. vossiewulf
    Wouldn't this be better in the masting and rigging section?
  20. vossiewulf
    For anyone interested in how I'm doing these breeching ropes, although it seems pretty straightforward to me. I'm using dark brown 14/0 unwaxed fly tying line for the small stuff to do the seizings, it's pretty close to correct for scale. I think. Actually I have no idea how you could do this without using fly tying line, trying to do seizings with the bigger stuff that comes in kits would be challenging. As you see, I spent at least a good five minutes turning a couple of posts for my ball vise as a jig. It works well enough, but I need to add clips so I don't need to use tape. I'm not entirely happy with using CA here, so I ordered some flexible fly tying head cement, it's a clear glue used to seal the heads of finished flies.
  21. vossiewulf
    I would do the serving, but I'm fairly high on the stickler for details scale. Look at it this way, chances are you'll end up working in 1/64 or 1/48 and they will seem easy after doing it correctly in 1/85. That said, taking an easier route through your first model isn't a horrible idea; you learn so much during the building that it probably won't end up at the front of your display cabinet. Just getting a feel for rigging and masting and hull construction in your first effort and then buckling down on the accuracy and difficulty in the next might be the best way.
  22. vossiewulf
    Nice job handling that unexpected turn of events.
  23. vossiewulf
    As Johann said, you let a professional do it Any decent sized town will have a jeweler that does custom work. The easiest thing to do is get jeweler's wax and carve/build up a master, they can then make a mold and do the casting. It shouldn't cost too much. I've had parts made that way for projects, and I also made some rings for an ex-admiral.
  24. vossiewulf
    Round 2 with Syren light brown .018" rope. Color is much better, but it's a bit darker than what Chuck's web site is showing- since I ordered a bunch of light brown line for the running rigging, I'm waiting for Chuck to confirm whether he changed his colors at some point to decide whether I roll ahead now, or wait until that line order arrives. I don't want to make these up only to have to replace them for clashing with the other running rigging. When I was a teenager I did a lot of fly tying, relying on that experience here.
  25. vossiewulf
    Thanks Dirk and Tom

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