themadchemist

Its the muted/earthy colours that have converted me. I know she was painted in Royal red, which was probably much brighter and garish for the FLASH of it, but to me that just looks wrong. Real or not I prefer the shades and shading you chose. You have an amazing eye for that sort of detailing. I also think that furled sails would look amazing as they would be there but not obscure the detail below. I also think the Vasa museum would be lucky to have you on their crew. If I recall correctly, this is but your first wooden build. Agreed, you came to the table with amazing paint skills, but that doesn't explain the rest of her. Some people just have the knack for the task and you are one of them. Just think, you tackled one of the more difficult builds as a 1st attempt, and these are the results, imagine what your skill set will be with 2 or 3 more builds. Honestly, The only way you could improve on this build is if you had hand carve the carvings, but the excellent paint and time shaping each piece make that hard to tell they are plastic kit piece so really it's a non-issue when they are painted. I can also understand your trepidation about adding the bowsprit, that changes everything about the handling of her.

Beautiful as always, Grant. Remind me again, I'm sure its stated but I'm to lazy to read back, will you be mounting this on davits at the stern quarters? 5 models in one, Brilliant!

Ah, that makes a difference then, I wondered as the picture can only be seen from one side, I figured they had heads on the opposite side. The brass washers, blackened square nuts and threads brass will look good together and without heads there will be symmetry from side to side. Thanks for fielding all my crazy questions, I use to drive teachers crazy in school also, I'm sure. but you can't learn if you don't ask.

I've also seen where oil quenching is used on sword blade forging and the reason they claimed it was used was it provided less shock to the metal and reduced heat stressed cracking from sudden cooling. In that case it was to prevent metal shock rather then the coating, which is honed off later. I guess I've just not seen it used this way before and find it interesting. BTW, a save my used oil also, waste not, want not. I was thinking the nut would seat in an equal sized mortise, which would eliminate needing a wrench, or would that twist into the wood too much. I thought it didn't look to be a high torque tighten so marring the wood wouldn't be an issue. The brass washers and blackish square nuts should be a nice contrast though.

I like that colour of deck stain, and your right, it kinda gives it that working vessel feel. I don't know if I'd change it. Are you considering going for the weather detail look or thinking about it? There are some great modelers that have some great techniques here on MSW if your think about going that way. I'm sure any would field questions. Just take a look at Franks HMAT Supply encrusted with barnicles http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/133-hmat-supply-by-riverboat-jotikacaldercraft-164th-scale/page-2?hl=+hmat +supply or Matti's staining paint effects on his Vasa http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1815-wasan-1628-by-nazgul-billing-boats-vasa-175/ That first picture really show off her curves. The beauty of a shear line. Nicely done my friend.

That last picture is a beauty, the natural lighting really works to show her Glory. I'd be stunned over the quality of work you've done, but honestly Matti, your spoiling us. We expect excellence from you and It's obvious that you gifts aren't just paint related. Great Job Mate! As I've said before I always hated the red Vasa, it think just from always seeing the light blue previously. But after so many looks at your build I have been converted to her true colours. Just wondering, have you been back to the museum and shown them your build? You could make a living doing this I believe. I always love when the shrouds go on and it fills the spaces and prepares her for her wings, BTW are you adding sails?

Sorry I just can't help myself. Just to further elaborate, hope my chem lesson isn't offensive. CA or cyanoacrylate is a carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen compound (BTW the amino acids in your muscle protein contain the same four elements). Its the structure and bonding that makes it bond so strongly. Which is a simple carbon/carbon single bond, yet called SUPER glue. CA's polymerization reaction (BTW that center C triple bonded to that Nitrogen if by itself is cyanide, but yet bound in the compound CA its not deadly like in 007 movies ) PVA or polyvinyl acetate is C, H, and O minus the Nitrogen Its the polymerization or chain forming ability of these compound that give strength in bonding. As for the Nitrogen making the difference in PVA vs CA strength.... the atmosphere is approximately 70% nitrogen and breathing doesn't seal our lungs shut. Ok, I think I'm done, sorry for the chemical babble.

I really tried but the chemist in me just can't help itself Silicon is an element, classified as a semi-metal. It is a hard brittle substance that will stick to nothing as an adhesive. As its in the carbon family it forms tetrahedral bonding which makes for some really strong compounds, just like carbon. Think carbon fiber or diamond, which chemically are the same as charcoal. Or every organic compound on the earth. Silicon as a chunk most adhesives called silicone are really only mixtures of Silica compounds, such as Ethyltriacetoxysilane which actually has WAY more carbon, oxygen and hydrogen then Si, its that single atom in the middle It is kind of like calling sodium, Salt. Salt is an ioninc solid and sodium cyanide is a salt, but don't salt your popcorn with it. Also Sodium Na (natrium in Latin) is a soft silver metal that you could smash with your fingers. It also reacts with water explosively, which the salt sodium chloride doesn't. Sorry, I could help myself

Larry's looking good. I use to do the "sanding the primer too early" a lot when doing auto finishing. Patience! Waiting for paint to dry is SO annoying, luckily with primer it is fixable. BTW, Larry looks good in white (or is the light grey), either way the paint gives it a more finished look. D'oh, I guess that's why they call it a finish Anyway, its fun as always watching a spinach powered mind at work.

Nice work Michael. Is there enough wood thickness to mortise a recess for the nuts to sit down in, rather then using a washer? or would that sacrifice strength and integrity in the wood? If "looks" are what you going for, I think the washers would detract from that, but that is just my opinion. BTW, what type of oil did you coat them with? and how protective/non-scratch resistant is this method of oil/coating? Sorry for all the questions, but I've never seen bluing done this away before. I've only seen chemical or electrochemical bluing, as is done with guns. Thanks, for once again opening my mind to new techniques and ideas.

A Very Nice first build, and Very quickly executed also. Congrats, Brian.

One suggestion was given, which am glad I did, from IIRC CaptHarv, was to replace the kits plywood bulwarks with solid sheet basswood. I did so and found them to take shape better, as the ply was old and brittle (remember I was doing the old kit). Plywood by design is less flexible though. I found the solid 3" by 2' sheets at hobby lobby for $2 (I actually grabbed several thicknesses, as you can never have too much wood on hand, IIRC the bulwarks are 1/16" though) also hobby lobby has where you can sign up for 40% coupon, which you can use on your phone (worth doing as it get's you 40% off on your highest item and I think can be used once per day. They cut easily with an exacto and I just used the kit piece to trace them. After shaping they only required tape to secure them, I used some of the OR rubber bands with hooks to hold them upright as their PVA dried. Shaping required a bit more securing ( I saw you looked at my log and thanks for the likes, I always take lots of clamping and restraining pics as I find it to be quite the task at times) After gluing and making sure the stern is aligned, then cut your stem end a bit over. You can fine tune its length by taping the second side on and testing their fit at the stem. then cut them to fit against each other symmetrically. An easy way to get that line for cutting the first is by running a piece of masking tape down the center of the keel line up onto the bulwarks and use that as a guide for marking, that is once the first ones glued in. I feared this task worse then planking because of that cut, but by biggest asset was having well shaped bulwarks, I'd highly recommend the solid sheet.

Beautiful work John. Wait until you sand it, you won't believe the difference sanding and scrapping will make. That's one of my other favorite parts This is getting fun to watch, she's going to be one NICE Pilot.

Nice work Brian, just catching up after a bad weekend. Just starting out and not wanting to send huge sums on tools, consider this http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe-Disc-Sander/H2669 its a good starter and someone, sorry can't remember the thread gave it excellent reviews.

What is so great about that technique is the fact that it is REAL. I was watching boat building video's on youtube and that was how they fit the shapes on a full sized clinkered boat build. It's just one of those things that are just SO obvious, once you seen it done... Nicely done on the seating fit Bob and as always, nice photo illustration.

Once again, your more then welcome. I started building 2 years ago this November, so I'm still rather green at all this myself. I'm also amazed at just how much REAL knowledge I have acquired in such a short time. What I know is that NOTHING I know is original to me, as pretty much everything I have developed is due to some member of the MSW community and their willingness to post excellent build information, including detailed photographs of procedures. I have still yet to PM a member of this community about a question I have and not just get an answer, but get a wealth of knowledge far beyond what I ever expected. an enquiry to Janos about his carving equipment, ended in him helping me pick equipment and the best place to buy burrs. Not to mention a great friend. If you haven't already seen his work, YOU MUST http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/501-carved-figure-heads-and-decorations/ I could list a many others that I've had similar interactions with in the past 2 years. I share because I understand that what I have, I own to those that gave to me. You happen to have Teacher and student when you speak of Russ and I, because he taught me. Its the reason MSW exists, to help preserve the ART of something that is quickly being lost by our throw away society. Preservation of the understanding is important. We owe a lot to shipping, and yet most take it so for granted. I, like you, started this hobby with a throw it together attitude. It was to blow off the stream of becoming disabled and help me retain my tactile ability. Something changes when a stranger lends a hand and then a light bulb goes off when the enormity of it really strikes home. Russ did that for me. Kits are poor examples, that are marketed and require a profit margin. They expect you to find source material and have a working knowledge. Some have made that better with practicums. If one stays in this hobby long enough I think they either become scratch builders or HEAVY bashers, but the kits have there place. My first thrown together is a Petersboro canoe with a misshapen hull. For the DSotM I slowed down and I'm bashing and learning. Kits are important and have there place, but they are lacking and $$$ will always have an effect on that. Learning takes time, experience and proper guidance. MSW has the community to provide the help you need and as the Carmen becomes the AVS we will be here and more new people will join in. I Love when people link their build logs in their sig, as that is how I came across your build. Providence? Maybe. Just do what feels right for you on the sails and you'll succeed.... and as for Pretty decent? I'd say for the length of time you've spent, this is a Beauty of an example of a Carmen build using the restraints you've imposed. Using just kit parts make it a lot tougher. I would be PROUD of what you've achieve in knowledge as well as the GREAT LOOKING pilot schooner your building.

Just catching up and wanted to comment. First, beautiful work as always Nils. Your take on the 1/64 Amati/Victory is as always Magnificent. Second, The scale issue is definitely happening due to the macro-photo shots, The pictures are sometimes up to 4 times larger then life size, if one clicks on them to see the larger photos. For me at least, I have to remind myself that she is only 1/64 as the detail is what one would expect of the larger 1/48. The fact that so many misgauge the scale is just a testament to the amount of detail you have achieved. You are truly a Master, and you unique take on the Pegasus is so different with its cut-away sections. I was admiring the distiller that can be see tucked back in some shots. See so many details and seeing them so well executed by an artisan is one of life's true pleasures.

it also becomes more fun and for me relaxing. The slow process of fitting planks is one that draws me into "the zone" you know when you look at the clock and go, WOW, where did that all that time go. I've actually gotten so engrossed that when I saw the sun coming through the windows was my first indicator that I'd worked through the night. For a beautiful single planked hull from a first timer, just check out Randy's Florencia, Its a beauty. (tmc says as he looks at the SF1 kit on the shelve). You just gotta love a Galleon. It's funny Randy's talking about rigging, because it was his and Robbyn's issues with their SF2 kits which caused me to slow way down and start pouring into research of the Gaff rig. Randy is right, as big as the learning curve is on planking, rigging may be even bigger. But that's not to intimidate, that's the challenge of this hobby. If it was easy everyone would be doing it.

your welcome Brian. I would suggest creating a folder system on your HD of your computer. I have a folder for each kit or build I an working on, even those I intend to build. I keep my build log pic's in it and then have a reference folder also in which I put reference pic's and information I find on the internet or on MSW. It makes finding them later handy. For ease of finding them later I have inner folders in the reference folder labeled (ie. bow, masts, spars and booms, rudder....). Just an idea. I also backup my archive regularly. As far as with or without sails, admiralty models typically have only partial masts and bowsprit and little or no rigging. There are many who display without sails as they block the view of the detailed rigging. There is also the question of, to furl or not to furl if one wants sails. I personally like sails, but furled or not is dependent on the vessel and the particular build. If they are unfurled and just left hanging, I feel they are better left off. They should look full of wind. This is usually achieved with dilute PVA and a curved surface, but IIRC Popjack used a hair dryer for drying the glue and setting the wind blown look into his set. As with nearly everything in this hobby, there is more then one way to approach an issue/problem. Furled sails look good also, but I've read its a tough technique to get them to look real, they are usually done wet to help, or so I've read. Just to give you an idea of furled versus unfurled, here are 2 builts of the pilot boat Katy. Furled: and unfurled I prefer the furled sails between these 2, but that my opinion. It all really comes down to one thing, your the captain and only you know what you want. Remember hobbies are for FUN and when you do something based on what you feel other want, rather then what pleases you, the fun lessens or stops. You tend to build very fast for my tastes, but I'm an analytical chemist and have a different build philosophy then you, also a differing temperament. Its crazy for anyone to say exactly how you approach a build as we all have different things we want to achieve, be it in detail or pace of build. ...sailing on the steel breeze....

some illustrations of lacing if you decide on that, I agree that on a vessel the size of Carmen hoops would be preferred though. Here are a few differing illustrations, first with 2 methods and expanded view and a 3rd double wrap Hoop attachment, for future reference. These should give you some ideas, I hope. One of the reasons I've slowed WAY down on the DSotM build is that I'm learning how it all works before progressing. Order of installation on rigging can quickly paint yourself in the corner. Your finding that out the hard way, but there is nothing like trial by fire to learn. A lot depend on if you want a kit made like is pictured on the box or one outfitted as they really were. The kits simulate LOTS of things and leave out even more. This is where it becomes the builders decision how detailed to go. I'm a detail junky, where your approach on this kit was to finish it based on kit materials. 2 completely differing Philosophies. You are probably seeing why so many scratch build rather then try to figure out what the kit skimped on.

Well put. I experienced the same, its amazing how hind-sight is 20/20. and the experience adds a lot to the understanding for those of us that need to learn from doing. Beautiful first planking, you be even more amazed what sanding or scraping does to it. Great Job

you know Jesse, sailors didn't have serving machines and they managed. I noticed the clothes pin trick in an earlier pic and thought it was I a very inventive way around the problem of the hanging thread. I remember my dad talking about sitting on shift, while in the USN, and splicing lines. It was all done by hand and gave him something to do to pass the time. Thanks for the illustration. As logs are for future builders to learn, it is nice to see every different method or way of doing a job shown. It's equally important for newer builders to see that beautiful details don't require a lot of expensive tools, just a bit of ingenuity.

There is no one absolute correct way to do any one thing. That's why ship and boat construction is a great never ending topic to study. Not just us as modelers, but the real builders development of things nautical over time are a testament to the never end possibilities that the human mind can develop. I'm looking forward to watching this progress as your statement, "I thought about it for a day or two and decided..." tell a lot about your approach. Spending time thinking is a VERY overlooked part of this hobby.

Ha, I like the new signature, What a great discovery for you right in the middle of this build. Cheers , To another solved mystery. This has to be VERY exciting for you E&/orT, I can't wait to see how things develop as they research the site further.