themadchemist

just FANTASTIC Dave.

Well now, how about that. Is that new to the newer kits... or have I just never seen it before...hum.... It looks like a great innovation as getting the deck to conform to the compound curvature is the only place CA has been used on the DSotM. Also you can build that balsa back up, hobby lobby and other craft stores sell the thinner sheets which you could stack a couple and probably fill that small area easily. I'm not so concerned about deck support, but rather something for the bulwarks to glue to as they take the bow curve, it only has about a 3mm ledge to glue to as it is. I'd also recommend replacing the plywood bulwarks with solid basswood sheeting as it takes shape better then the ply and a 3" piece is only a couple bucks.

I just looked back at John's log and can't tell from his pictures, but this is the notch I'm questioning. The older kit did not have this and It seems it would prevent the deck from laying correctly. John can better answer this then I as he built the newer kit. Also you can see I point out where more balsa added would be good for deck support. clicking the picture will give a bigger view and also so you can read my notes with typo's That notch just seems above the plane (curved) of the decking when I look at the frame tops elsewhere,

Just a question, are you talking about shimming here? If so, I would keep sanding. The shape is there but without fairing to about the center of the bulkheads line, the area will be fuller. In the long run it won't really matter, it just changes the shape of the bow slightly by widening it. Back when I use to do auto body work, I found one tends to want to stop shaping when its smooth rather then when your at the correct level. If you look where I placed the arrow. and imagine the bulkhead and center keel faired so that the bulkhead has the bevel matching the keel at that point. Adding the balsa gives a false sense of "your there" If you look at the front corner of the 1st bulkhead, it is at the center keel. In my opinion the front balsa needs another small bit removed as its feathered into the keel line to a point. This will bevel the leading edge of bulkhead 1. This will also take quite a bit more off the balsa between 1 and 2. Understand this is all just my opinion, as the Swift doesn't actually build the plank rabbet interface but simulates it. You will end up sanding that part flat later for keel fitting after 1st planking anyway and I I have seen this area done many ways. Fitting the keel is one of the toughest parts of this build, and prep work starts now. Just as with the stern being too thick and needing lots of thinning to match the keel thickness after planking. One thing is for sure, Its always best to try and think as many steps ahead as possible, but then that is tough, when it's your 1st. Whatever you decide, it will be correct as its only a simulated bearding line. I would always chose smooth over is the shape 100% correct, unless building a scratch build. There were lots of pilot boat all up and down the coasts and everyone was shaped by the builder..... So here is your first decision as a builder. Welcome to the wonderful world of deciding. Let your gut tell you what is best, if you follow mine, you may end up with a Led Zeppelin inspired build, who knows. The main point is FUN. It is the 1st and ONLY RULE of building. One MUST have FUN! Maybe this will help you picture the bearding line which has the plank set into a rabbet in the keel, The kit doesn't do this at all, but it is what your attempting to simulate. As a pictures worth a thousand words, I'll leave it at that for now.

Looking at your filler blocks they look good. On the question of where to stop shaping? the bulkheads are the place the planks should be attached, although the bulkheads should have a bevel or be faired. This bevel or fairing will be most extreme at the bow. Basically you want the edge of the bulkhead to have a full flat contact patch for the plank to glue to. Another way of thinking of this is that the plank should be perpendicular where the plank hits the bulkhead. I think this is best illustrated in the tutorial "simple hull planking" by Bakker, Booker and Rogers, which is now on the NRG sister site here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php Here is the illustration from page 9 of that tutorial showing what I'm poorly explaining. Here's the main page for all the archives, which may be handy to bookmark. http://www.thenrg.org/ship-modeling-resources.php Basically your adding balsa to add a place to glue the planking, in a place that is the least forgiving, the ends. The bulkhead should remain the line to sand to though. On the sanding the 1st bulkhead should end up beveled along the leading edge at the bow. For he Swift the instructions also explain (poorly) to also bevel the keel (center) bulkhead to a V or point. This is so the planks meet nicely down the keel line. Here's a picture of my build at that point. The balsa gives the large contact patch for gluing, but the bulkhead is the starting and stopping point of fairing. I actually had to add shims to some bulkheads to shim them up as they were lacking or unsymmetrical. Fairing should take quite a bit of time as it is creating the foundation on which everything else lays. You can spot check the lay of the planking by holding planking against the hull to check for smooth transitions down the length, on larger builds sometimes builders use battens to check this. One question I have is the part sticking up (deck side) on the center keel just above the 1st bulkhead. This isn't on my older kit and it appears as though it will prevent the deck from laying flat when glued. Also the balsa should be used to fill the top (deck) area, near the stem. The balsa will give a flat spot for the deck to lay when glued. Actually flat is awful wording as the deck has a beautiful compound curvature, being high on the ends and in the middle, which aids in water flow off the deck to the scuppers. So I'm not sure why the notch is sticking up and I'd consider adding balsa to the deck side all the way to the stem top. Otherwise there will be a gap between the balsa and deck and this will make gluing the bulwarks on later more difficult. I hope this wasn't just a bunch of confusing words as it's hard to put actions into words. On the cotton used for simulated deck caulking, NICE idea. The decks actually where caulked with oakum (shredded hemp roping twisted into cord) so your actually doing it more close to correct then most. It should look really good. Also adding the lower decks before further fairing will give her more stability for fairing. So far everything looks on track, Nice work!

Hey Ant, There is always more then one way to do just about everything, and a machinist square is a wonderful option. Nice use of the machinist clamp also. Also don't apologize for the adventure your about to undertake. Everyone comes to the table with differing skill sets and differing temperaments. You are only completing with yourself and you can judge your success in smiles. Remember hobbies are for fun and patience is the first step in success. I see I was first to follow your log as the Swift is a pretty popular kit, I'm sure you'll have followers to bounce questions off of soon enough. It looks like your to a great start and I look forward to seeing another version of this wonderfully versatile kit. It has its issues, but then they all do. This kit did give me a real appreciation for the pilots and the other smaller working craft. One day I hope to build a POF pilot boat that's not Floydian, but more historic. So , let the adventure begin

If you check my log you will find I completely closed the back opening and am replacing it with a wheel, binnacle (I'm considering remaking this piece), belfry (actually its a gongfry) and grating. The front deckhouse was also shortened, not to mention the Battersea power station stacks. Breaking the rules is so fun ....see you on the Dock Side of the Moon......

Hey g-dog You have it right, if you check my build log (hyperlinked in the sig), you will see I had to narrow the keel line considerably from about 1/2 way back. I think Gabe had issues with this and one side extends out, IIRC, as you mention. Its best (IMHO) to 1st plank her, fit the keel/stem/stern posts (for the reason you mention), then 2nd plank. Also its good to be a bit nervous, but don't let it overwhelm you. Once you get the hang of it, planking can be a JOY. I find it very relaxing.

I agree with you brother, its nice when the Admiral gets involved, every good sailor just wants to please the Admiral after all .... those are some pretty big hints for the enquiring of us...... and Lastly, The scuppers are 100% better downsized. Much more to proportion. Metamorphosis-Larry is quickly becoming something else completely , and I like it.

Plus as you added earlier, the grass forces the viewer to step in and look closer, Then is when the "WOW" factor will happen, as they might think you just were trying to cover the wheels, but the rear wheels show enough of the amazing spoke-work to make one want to look closer. Like luring prey Of course they may never notice the spokes, due to the amazingly detailed rig. There is great and then there is that do-over that makes what was once great, humdrum. The diorama is now befitting the rig detail. I've always found builders that push beyond their momentary skill set, to be the ones that constantly achieve great, Greater and GREATEST works of artistic beauty and detail. Its all in the details that adds that "REAL" sense and learning the ropes to perfection takes much practice, this is true with anything. On this upgrade, I think you jumped from great to GREATEST in one step, bypassing the in-betweens. It only makes one wonder....what else is next. One question to clarify, you initially show a 1 gallon cider jug and later a glass bulb. Seeing the diorama is round I assume the circular bulb it the bottle being used? That will give ever a more distortion free view. Looking back and seeing the #11 blade laying across deck is just so startling, as one forgets just how small she is without reference. Sometimes a build just really takes you and this one does me. It's such an interesting topic and done so well. Thanks so much for sharing her with us.

most pipe was lead, even the romans used lead piping. That's why leads symbol is Pb which is Latin - Plumbum, from which the word plumbing is derived. The lead lining is correct as I understand and would be a nice touch. I've seen other simulate the lead lined drain holes and scuppers.

I always like the extra details, Thanks Dave. and I did notice the way the bow was plowing through the grass, that first picture even looks as though the grass is being pushed forward which gives it great life. I showed the admiral your art and she was very impressed.

The stern knees NEVER fit. and the scupper issue is a huge kit flaw, the kits full of them. I like what you did. I also liked PopJack's solution of filling them out. Looks good John.

I agree, the detail is fabulous. Thanks for breaking ground for me and clearing the path, so to speak, on detailing the fore and aft rig. Your metal work detail is everything I hope to achieve, thanks for the cheat sheet Fabulous Cap'n and how ever and whenever you post...I'll be waiting.

Deconstruction Dan...... are those guys still eating, sheesh it's good to see her again, I can't wait to see what happens next.

and I though the other looked great. Wow, sadly the grass covers the wheels a bit, but in reality most prairie grass is taller then a mans head. The wild flowers also add MUCH realism. I saw in I think it was a Nat Geo one time that the root system of prairie grass is longer then its above ground height That's how it survives drought and why the tilling of the prairies caused the dust bowl. Excellent problem/solution, which lead to a MUCH nicer and realistic ground cover. It now looks like a prairie and not a golf course fairway.

That shurfine box cutter really gives prospective of how small the pilot house is. That thing brings back memories, I worked in a little mom'n'pop grocery in the 80's that had shurfine. Wow that was long ago, and I may even have some of those buggers still buried somewhere. Every time I see it, it causes flashbacks of long ago, Tammy and I got married while I worked there. I've never consider using a box cutter rather than an exacto type knife, broken blades have to be cheaper to replace and you can flip them when broken.... HUM...tmc scratches his head.....

Congratulation Garward, well done my friend.

and Florencia is finished! Beautiful job Randy, so have you had thoughts on what may be next? It's really hard to believe this was a first build, she is magnificent and did I miss it before or is the vertical rubbing strakes multi-layer a bash. The detail, especially with the nails looks great. This one definitely deserve a rereading as all good build logs do, I finally got over my like button phobia so sorry if I flood your like indicator, It will be fun to relive this build as I was along for the ride.

Grant, I really didn't expect to be astounded, not because I expected poor work, but rather I expect nothing but the best.... But I have to say the hand shot of all 4 is a jaw dropper, Grant. You should feel as though you just climbed Everest.... 4 times. I'm astounded and once again I learn never to under expect an artisan that's reaching way past their momentary ability. You not only pulled in off, but set the bar higher, but at the same time helped teach those that follow. As my eyes grow dimmer and I have less time to spend reading, your build log is a favorite. Its just to bad we can't read them all (maybe Mark does, he gets around, I think he's cloned himself). Anyway, I'm ASTOUNDED! Kudo's and Congrats to a very talented and adventurous mentor and Commodore, you have earned that title

Nils, if your confused then you are "on course". As we all are (Popeye included), that's part of the fun, it's also probably why early sailors took to the sea, just to see what was out there.... With Popeye he attempts to cross that point of no return, and always succeeds. Both of you 2 have broken new ground with your inventive and beautiful Builds. Nils and his interestingly cut away Peggy. Of course we know what to call her, don't we. all we have here is Moe Curly and metamorphosis-Larry to go on....

spinach scented smoke boils out of Popeye's ears as the old thinker is a ticking away..... do I detect the scent of scotch pine and the low sound of caroling in the distance....... You know this will be good however it turns out

Humorous but necessary. There's some pretty sharp bends planking the inner bulwarks, but the thinner stuff will conform if retrained, which I believe you have managed. One can never have TOO MANY clamps in this hobby...or too many varieties.

So there's mini you for the pilot cutter and Giants sailing Maria, hum ... so, when do you show us your cloning project photos

John From the locations of the discoloring I wonder if it was adhesive related as it seems to be near edges. The color is perfect though and the staining makes it look weathered to me. I like it. The bigger question is, do you like it. If so I'd leave it. Wood has natural variation and stains in spots. If you consider that water runoff is directed to the middle and out to the scuppers, all water from the bow would run towards the front deckhouse wall, pool, then run out and around the sides, So to me it looks like the places of the weathered look are in places to be expected. Also realize much of the deck will be broken up with deck fixtures in place and the effect will lessen as she progresses. Either way, I vote leave it, as I think it gives character.