Nirvana
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Everything posted by Nirvana
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Painting done! Masking tape off and then removal of the waterline tape. The waterline turned out better than I expected.
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So I did go with scuppers anyway. I created a simple jigg for this purpose as the waist is already there. At least they will be noticeable from the outside. The holes in the wider part are slightly wider than the stanchions. This needle is not being used when doing the holes only to hold the jigg in place for photo session.
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Floyd, I might go for the scuppers anyway, it's not to late to do them. This as the waist looks heavy without them.
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Keith, Isn't the heat gun a great tool? I used it, while planking the Longboat and the Bluenose. Great helper.
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Brian, Here we go, 1: Clamp a piece of plank approx. 6-8" covering three bulkhead. See picture: Three red arrow line. Then insert the fake stanchions, see green line. These are to be even spaced between bulkheads. There are three stanchions between each bulkhead. Now continue this procedure all the way, starboard and port side. There are some cutting involved to get them done. Once this is done, cut the bulkhead tops off. I have an extremely fine-tooth saw (razor blade size) which I used for this. Insert the fake stanchions where you cut the bulkheads out. Work the stem and stern area before any waist planking is done. As for the scuppers, I omitted them as they are so small. Hope this explained how I did mine. I wouldn't say my way is the perfect one, I think we all are re-thinking the "wheel" with each build of any ship.
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Hello gentleman,,, I am a new member ,,
Nirvana replied to Jaan Ojala's topic in New member Introductions
Jaan, Warm , are you Dutch? -
Brian, Sure you can go that direction you are mentioned, but in the instructions it's kind of easily explained. Re-read that section and look at Bluenose build and you will see. However, I placed the "fake" stanchions a equal distance in-between the bulkheads and then cut the bulkheads and put in more "fakes", if you doing this properly and let the glue set the planking will be easy.
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So I had the first coat of the black/blue coating over the hull, but I don't fancy it to much. It has more of a blue/green tone, so I am to experiment of mixing to create the tone I like. Again, always write down the rations so I will remember for future use. I will also create my own color chart.
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Something I have always wanted to try
Nirvana replied to StönCüld's topic in New member Introductions
Stönculd, First a warm You have a great girl friend and her choice of model. On Amatis website they have video instructions of the build. All the way through. There are also many build logs in here. Research will be necessary and maybe reaching out to the curator at the museum in Denmark. Good luck. -
Mike, I have had it apart already and after the Windex solution for cleaning my unit works real well. But yes, I will look into getting spare parts. Thanks for the recommendation.
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The lower part is done. The anti-fouling reddish is as I want. Next was to mask the lower area, so the blackish/blue could be applied. I am so happy working with the air brush, the out-come is so much better than a regular brush. Following two pictures is showing the somewhat result, this as the port has been painted and sanded and the starboard is partly painted.
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Hello from Klamath Falls Oregon
Nirvana replied to OldBritAbroad's topic in New member Introductions
Hugh, a warm and Merry Christmas to you. -
Ron, thanks for the tutorial even though I have been using SketchUp ever since it came out and gone through several owners, Trimble the last one for now. I have learned something new and will try to in-cooperate the 3D printing as well.
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Anti-foul painting done, currently masking off for the blackis/blue paint. Vallejo had the perfect tone.
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As for the laser setup I used my Gitzo tripod with a separate head (Gitzo - Swiss made ) The tripod is heavy duty and not light to carry around. Will take a picture of it later. Floyd, time for you to change your avatar to your T37! Edit: Picture as promised: look at the weight in the scale window.
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The plastic on the deck is new to me, to prevent paint on bare wood.....
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Air Brush Paints
Nirvana replied to Worldway's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Derek, once you have tried air brushing you will be hooked. I enjoyed it tremendously, and I am a true novice. -
One (long) is sitting on the mdf board to get the board longitudinal leveled and then one (small) across the "railing" to get Blue the other longitudinal right. See page 5, last posting, picture 2 and 3.
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Sorry for the grainy resolution, but painting has been achieved. Don't touch still wet!
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Air Brush Paints
Nirvana replied to Worldway's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I have only used Valejo paint both the regular and the air version. Both can be thinned a lot without loosing pigmentation. I learned something new about the Valejo bottles (a reason not to throw them away once depleted) I was to open my red one and the top came off. Which was perfect as the paint was clogging up in the tip. Rinsed it under warm water and the top was as new. This way I can blend my colors to my own liking and store it without drying out. The thinner from Valejo is not compatible with MS paint and other acrylics. Tried and the outcome was extremely bad.
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Doug, Very nice coppering, now I think what I am in for when it comes to my Syren.
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Mike, Very nice restoration; now I have a question, where is this lovely ship going?
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I took a step back and reviewed my lines........ and no way I am to use them. My setup was too simple and inaccurate. I had heard about using laser for the purpose and after a lot of tweaking with the setup bench I was ready. And after this I am to get my own laser as this worked out so fine. To get this correctly I used a mdf board normally used for shelving and added the pedestals as I had marked out on plan and boat. This setup would ensure proper waterline. Next was to secure her and align it all with water levelers. Once I had this done, aligning the laser was the next step. Once that was done, lights on and I had a perfect waterline. Using a regular pencil I marked it off. For some reason of which I can't recall I had narrow masking tape from the auto painting, best part it had the perfect width for the waterline. Applying it and then masking of the top area of the hull I will paint the lighter colored hull part. I learned this long time ago always paint the lighter colors first then the darker. What is extremely important before painting is to use a round edge tool to have the tape having a proper contact with the surface. Happy with this I started experimenting to get a proper anti-fouling red tone. I didn't like the one recommended from MS, so I gave my Vallejo paint a shot. Turned out really nice.
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Gregory, that's very close to what my kit from Constructo has provided.
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John, Welcome to MSW or can I say Terve to you? Found this info regarding the Grace Harwar.
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