Ulises Victoria
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Everything posted by Ulises Victoria
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I am not familiar with those particular kits you mention. I own OcCre's Santísima Trinidad kit and what I have seen in the box, so far, is of excellent quality. Remember that OcCre is perhaps the newest kit manufacturer in the market and that it spawned from some Artesania Latina's people who wanted to make better kits. This should say something about the company. Hope someone else can shed more light on the kits you mention. Regards
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No... Boris Vallejo is an outstanding Fantasy artist, but the Vallejo paints Mr. Watton refers to, is a well known brand of Acrylic paints, widely used among modelers of all kinds. Hope this helps. -
Mr. Watton: One thing I am curious about this kit, is what kind of rigging fittings it will have. I hope they don't spoil it by putting those ugly square one holed blocks that normally come in kits. I purchased some very expensive blocks and deadeyes from Jerzy at JBModel.eu for my Vasa. I would expect those in this kit to be of similar quality. I prefer to pay for those along with the price of the kit, instead of having to get them from third party suppliers. My best wishes and admiration to you. You are doing an outstanding job here, dear Sir!
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I like to weight my models. I generally put and spread a couple of cakes of playdough in the hull in plastic models as soon as possible. For wood, i put stones and pour some lightly diluted white glue over them.
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OMG! I never thought I would want to build another Victory (built the 1/100 Heller in the early 1990's), but seeing this kit in progress, makes me drool over it.
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I prefer to have the masts perfectly aligned and firm 'before' setting the rigging. So I take every precaution to align and glue them as firm as possible. I prefer not to worry (or worry less) with yet another thing such as mast alignment while working on my rigging.
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It may be a bit too late for this, but if I can be of any help with translating from Spanish, just let me know.
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One of the very best books in my collection. You definitely will not regret the expense.
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Matti. I feel envious of your job. I am building the Corel kit in the color scheme that it was supposed to be many years ago. I am very happy with it though, as I don't really like the actual Vasas' color scheme. Anyway I want to congratulate you on a job superbly done. If I had to build the Vasa again, I most likely go with the BB kit. Best regards and many congratulations.
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I have the ST by OcCre. I have not started building this kit, but what I have seen in the box is very satisfactory. I don't think there is a kit in the market that you can say its absolutely 100% perfect. OcCre was spawned by some people from Artesania Latina who wanted to make better kits, so I think its safe to say that they are somewhat better than the A.L. kits.
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Denatured alcohol or distilled water, both work well. Still, your best bet is using the paint's brand recommended thinner.
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plank steaming
Ulises Victoria replied to bigpav's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Nice set up. I am using this hair curler with excellent results. I'm not going to say that is better, but works superb for me.
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Rigging lines through deadeyes
Ulises Victoria replied to Nick T's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Put a drop of thin CA in the tip of the thread, then cut at an angle. This will form some kind of needle that will make the thread go easily through the hole. I also use these plastic thingies, used to pass dental floss through braces. You can get them at WalMart for pennies and are really useful. Another thing I ALWAYS do with my rigging, is passing it over a candle or lighter flame. This gets rid of the fuzz completely.
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decals question
Ulises Victoria replied to PopJack's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Nope! Sorry, but the correct method is to put the decal in water for just a couple of seconds, then lay it flat on tissue or paper towel. Touch it with a tooth pick gently until you see the whole decal moving over its backing paper. (Always "push" the decal. If you "pull" and the part you are moving is loose and the other isn't, you may break it!. Hope this is clear!) If you let the decal in water for too long, the glue used on it to stick to the surface dissolves. Use the decal setting solution mentioned above for better results. As always... if doing something new EXPERIMENT OFF your model. Buy a cheap plastic airplane or car and use those decals as practice. Hope this helps. -
I bought the AL 1/48 Surprise and was surprised (pun intended) at the quality of the plans and instructions. Full 1/1 scale drawings and plans in full color. The thick instruction booklet is filled with several color photos in each and every page. I started doubting this was an AL kit, after building the Bounty and Endeavour. Only one negative thing I have to comment this far... the figurehead is hideous. I have not started building this monster and I may not do it soon due to its size: 1.33 mts., so I can not comment very deep on it, but what I have seen in the open box, pleases my eye. I read somewhere that AL has now a new line of products, much better than the previous. The Surprise might be one of those.
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Steam plank bending tool
Ulises Victoria replied to captainkangaroo's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This is not a hair dryer nor a soldering iron... perhaps a hair iron This has worked really nice for me.
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I drill or punch the holes. Cut a bunch of round toothpicks in half. Wet a half toothpick in wood glue. Insert in hole. Wait to dry overnight. Trim tooth picks with toenail clipper. Sand. Very simple (Instead of that dental pick, I now use a jig made with 4 nails in a piece of wood, to make 4 equally spaced holes at a time )
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Too bad. Weathered Black and Antique White were two outstanding paints by the Floquil brand, that I am surely going to miss.
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Le Soleil Royale is one of my dream ships. Too bad is out of my budget to buy the wooden version at this moment. I have the plastic Heller kit under my workshop table. I just don't feel like going the plastic way again. I must add you are doing a tremendous job here. Keep on it!!!
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Hello Andre... Hats off to you. I wouldn't even think about restoring this model after seeing that terrible job on the bow planking. If you can make a beautiful model out of whatever you got, I just wonder what you may be capable of doing if it were a new kit!!!
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But it's of great value for wooden pen turning, which I do. Can we work out some deal, Mathew? I would't use all that pile but maybe just a few pieces.
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Which company has the best rigging ropes?
Ulises Victoria replied to lamarvalley's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Google for 'morope' This has been the most renowned name as far as scale rigging lines is concerned although also, the most expensive. -
What I do, is rub the line over the side of a candle stick, and then over a flame. This melts the wax and leaves a smooth and humidity impervious surface. I ALWAYS run my rigging lines over a lighter flame to eliminate fuzz, waxed or not.
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I think it's only fair to post an update here. I received a very badly damaged book in a totally unacceptable condition. I sent a mail including some photos of the damage to Mr. H. Berti. I received no answer whatsoever so 8 days later I sent a second mail requesting status of this matter. Although I did not received an answer to this second email either, a new book, wrapped in plastic and in perfect condition was received today. No return request of the damaged book was made by ANCRE. So the matter was resolved to my satisfaction. I own now 3 copies of this book: One in French in mint condition, a Spanish damaged copy and a brand new Spanish copy. I think I am going to keep the damaged book in my shop so that I can consult it without fear of damaging it. I may even be able to write notes on it , something I would never do on a book of this price. Credit due to ANCRE and Mr. H. Berti.
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- Bernard Frolich
- The art of ship modeling
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Glue Recommendations
Ulises Victoria replied to leehound's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
My personal opinion here. I don't like CA in my shipbuilding and use it only very seldom. For gluing wood to wood nothing beats Titebond or Gorilla WOOD glues. For gluing dissimilar materials, I use a glue called Resistol Repair Extreme. Someone posted in another post the American equivalent of this glue. Sorry I can't remember. Another possibility is epoxy, which is really strong, but messy and I feel too much of it is wasted. I bought a tube of Weldbond which I haven't really tried it on my ship so I can't comment on it yet.
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