AON

Thank you Pat and everyone else dropping in. It seems this detour project was exactly what I needed to recharge my batteries. I went back to fairing my 3D hull model tonight for about an hour and it is amazing what you can see with fresh eyes. I have a feeling it will have a positive affect on my zebra striping on the hull to highlight the blemishes. I might get the lofting right yet and be that much closer to templates and building my ship. Unfortunately I won't get much done on the table until the weekend and this May two-four weekend is our normal planting weekend for the gardens outside. The "love of my life" is looking forward to our being outside with hands in the dirt... and I've see the neighbourhood cats roaming back there so it should be full of surprises!

I am certain he would forego the need to have his toilet re-installed to help me if I asked. Sure he would. Besides, he is too damn tall and good looking to be in a photo with me. I simply won't allow it.

This weekend did not go at all as I had planned. C'est la vie! Yesterday I managed to lightly sand all the pieces. Started to assemble the frame directly under the table top and sub-top. Drilled, pinned and glued four pieces. Then I got a call that my son needed help with his bathroom renovation... so off I went. My advice to any young people out there... do not buy an 115 year old home unless you are prepared to deal with no insulation, old wiring and clogged lead pipes. Just touch one pipe and every joint from the second floor to the basement will leak. Tear out one wall and be prepared to rewire the whole house. Rip up one floor and be amazed at how the whole house had never fallen down with the carpentry skills used to originally build or modify it along the way to you finally owning it. I explained to my son... that is why we eventually sold our old home and bought a 10 year old brick house. Some pictures of my meagre progress. Alan

Yesterday was a wash with entertaining company Picked up sanding belts Cut one hole for an electrical outlet box and then had to admit to myself after trying to make it fit that it was the wrong style box and the piece was now scrap Will have to make that piece over today Victoria Day today I believe everything is closed so I will likely not get the proper electrical outlet boxes until tomorrow I should have went fishing

I managed to get all the legs and stationary pieces cut yesterday. Everything needs sanding Discovered that somehow I only had one belt left for my belt sander. I'll have to ask my son how that happened. Going out this morning to get some more belts. Should be doing some assembly today. Here are three pics. Cutting frames and legs to length and notching the relief for the mechanism control buttons. Alan

I like what you've done and have been eye balling the underside of my table in the 3D model for storage shelves (as you have done) or drawers. Your photos help me visualize the options Thank you! Once I get the feel for this table on casters I may add casters to the legs of my old reference table that I use for everything in my workroom because it can be a pain moving it out of the way when it is loaded down.

I splurged and purchased a second Up/Down control button and splitter cable for the lift I will mount it on the opposite side of the table to the first button so that way if I am comfortably seated and find I need to make a table height adjustment I do not have to get up off my lazy butt and walk around to the other side to do it. In 1990 I had a tumour removed from my neck and spinal column that required the fusing of the lower vertebrae in my neck. I believe that this electric-hydraulic lift device and the manual pivot mechanism will be well used by me and make my time spent at the table more enjoyable. I laid out one set of table legs and one long top frame piece this morning. I will need to make these cuts before I mark the others (using these as templates).

Drilled the holes for pinning the table at various pivoted angle from horizontal to 60° in 5° increments I should mention that before drilling it is important to square the press bed to the drill bit to ensure straight holes are made Sanded the edge to finished shape using a belt sander And that is as far as I got this weekend I will try laying out the legs and frames this week to cut this coming weekend. With luck I might start some assembly.

Marked a cut line to cut the board into two equal size pieces and then put the marked sheet on top of the unmarked sheet and screwed them together so as to cut them both at the same time making them identical Cut out the outline shape with my band saw. I’ll mention that the table everything is done on was my drafting reference table eons ago before they brought in computers… we continue to work as a team.

Laid out the shape marking curves and hole locations (I certainly could have made some good use of the 24 inch beam compass we use to have at the office before they brought in computers

Routered the grooves for the 4 foot long T- tracks along each edge Insert the T-tracks for fit and show. Then I started on the Pivot Plates…

Began my modeling table build this weekend but didn’t get very far with it as there are many distractions and with the fair weather comes other odd jobs (like cutting the grass which admittedly is better than shoveling snow) … and then it was mother’s day! Started with the table tops. Measured and marked off the cuts in the ¾” plywood with chalk line One piece 24” x 36” (stationary top) and one piece 24” x 48” (pivoting top) I did not need to cut the sub base as they were already at size Made the cuts (without adding to my reflection in the photo due to the shine off the top of my head)

Druxey = unmatched skill and eagle eyes!

Zebra View is a mirror reflection of lines on your shape ... your shape is the mirror as the shape changes the reflection of the lines adjust it highlights changes in shape, mates and alignment I am still having trouble wrapping my head around what it is telling me. a perfectly fluid shape would, I believe, have long lines reflected... their direction might change but not sharply and they would change as a group

Believe me - I know exactly how you feel! isn't technology wonderful... we now worry about the tiniest dimensions and now stripes when are grandfathers would have just made it work even if it took a good wack or two with the 10 lb pursuader

Thank you Don I'll watch the video tonight when I get home. Alan

I have the free download version at home and I am convinced if you want it to function properly you need to purchase the full version. It also seems to crap out at the most inconvenient times. Text will work per my settings when it wants to. Dimensions likewise. But it is free and I am only getting older .... I find myself slowing down so doing things twice all of a sudden seems to be the new natural thing to do

Hoping to start building my table this weekend. I acquired a 30” x 8 foot sheet of ¾” plywood and am now wondering if I should leave the table top at 30” or rip it down to the 24” wide I had originally planned to do. I also have all the other lumber I could possibly require stock piled. Picked up two lengths of ¾” Tee-rail for the table top as I’ve seen used on the forum. Below are a few photos to christen the beginning of the build.

My daughter wouldn't give any of it a second glance. I explained to my son that "all this" is his inheritance so it all needs to be treated as such So he started taking them home! He calls it borrowing

I had created the attached as a guide to interpret the Zebra View of my Hull and offer it here for others ( hoping it has some value as I have yet to "get it" .....but haven't given up yet!) I include a Zebra View image of my hull. if anyone understands Zebra View and can offer some insight it would be greatly appreciated. Alan TRYING TO MAKING SENSE OF THE ZEBRA VIEW IN SOLIDWORKS.pdf

Ben: Apparently we are the lucky ones as there aren't enough mentors to match all the various requests! Druxey: Below is the section of the build contract. If I'm reading it correctly the Billy Ruffian once again breaks the mold as the dimension seems to be 5-1/2" Alan

Thank you Druxey I'll double check the build contract which I was certain read 5-1/2" but who is to say these old eyes didn't read the even older writing incorrectly. I can say the "8"'s look very weird to me. At first I thought they were 6's. Alan

Siding the Individual Frames (Images 14 thru 19) Having hid all but the one frame at dead flat I could work on it to chisel away to it’s sided dimensions. The frame sided dimensions differ from Floor Timber (16”) to 2nd Futtock (13-1/2”) to 4th Futtock (13”) To create the sided dimension for the 2nd Futtock I inserted a plane against the face of the floor timber and using reference lines sketched in a box to remove 16” – 13-1/2” = 2-1/2” from the frame. I mirrored the box and completed the extrude cut. I repeated this for the 4th Futtock sided dimension which was a removal of a mere ½”. I then sketched in the outline of the Chock at the head of the Floor Timber and the Scarf Joint at the head of the 2nd Futtock. I offset the chock and scarf joint lines a distance of 0.01” (1/8” at full scale) and extrude cut through the timber to reveal the joint. I picked 0.01” arbitrarily as it was something I didn’t have to zoom in too closely to see. I am not certain the chock would have been stepped to match the frame as I’ve done. These steps would be used to create the sided dimensions of the adjacent frame and reveal the Cross Chock at the floor and the Scarf Joints. If anyone has a cleaner method of accomplishing what Ive just posted please let me know! That's all for now. I have to get back to fairing my hull yet again!

My method of cutting out Frames in the 3D Hull (Images 4 thru 13) First turned off the keel by rolling up to hide it. I drew a single rectangle (taller than wide) to represent the SPACE between frames and located it to one side of dead flat. Room and Space is 32-1/2” and the sided dimension of the floor timber is 16” so the space is ½” I made the rectangle ½” wide I then copied the rectangle using the Linear Pattern feature at 8" intervals I extrude cut through the hull in one step to reveal individual frames. Then to my amazement I noticed each frame was saved individually as Cut Extrude 1 thru 15. I could pick frames and hide them. So I hid all but the frame at dead flat.

What I am about to describe was a test to figure out how to actually do what I am about to show. This is likely not the only way or possibly the best way but.... My method of creating the Frame thickness (moulded dimension) layout at station -0- (dead flat) using Solidworks (Images 1, 2 and 3) Steps: Offset the previously drawn outside frame line an arbitrary distance for reference. I used 1’-9” which is noted as the height of the Floor Timber above the keel. The build contract states 1’-11” but above that is penned in 1’-9” (as built notation). Locate the head of the Floor Timber = heel of the 2nd Futtock. The build contract states the Floor Timber is 23 feet at midships. Draw a reference line perpendicular between the existing outside frame line to the inside reference frame line. Lock the reference line in place with a “fix” mate. Insert a point on this perpendicular reference line and create a coincident mate between it and the reference line so it is locked to the reference line Locate the point at a distance of 13.5 inches from the outside of the frame using a dimension. The 13.5” represents the moulded dimension of the frame at the head of the Floor Timber. The addition of the dimension locks it in place. Repeat these steps for each moulded dimension called out on the build contract Head of Lower (1st) Futtock at 7’. Moulded dimension 12.75” Head of 2nd Futtock at 7’. Moulded dimension 12.25” Head of 3rd Futtock at 7’. Moulded dimension 11-5/6” (11.83”) Head of 4th Futtock at 11’-6”. Moulded dimension 10.5” Top Timber moulded dimension 5.5” Insert a point to represent the Top of the Floor Timber above the Keel at 1’-9” Lock it in position with a coincident mate on the centre line and a dimension for the height Draw a Polyline representing the inside frame line connecting all points from the Top of the Floor to the Top Timber. This line looked perfect except for the area between the heads of the 3rd and 4th futtock so I introduced an intermediate point at half distances to correct the look of it. I inserted a point on the polyline and then moved it to the intermediate point to correct the look of the polyline in this area. The contract also states that the framing moulded depth dimension at gun ports 12” versus 11.83” or 10.5”. At a scale build this is miniscule (about 0.03" at ¼ scale and 0.02” at 1/6 scale) and hardly controllable after any sanding so I’ve decided to not get too excited about it for now. I then drew lines to join the outside/inside at the Top Timber and also traced in the frame joint at the keel. Mirrored the sketch to produced the opposite side and extruded the whole thing from mid-plane to get the 3D hull frame thickness