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18th Century Longboat by MikeB4 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/4"=1'


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Mike,

Your mast looks great. You and I are pretty much at the same point in our builds. Unlike you though, I'm procrastinating the rigging (because I don't know what the hell I'm doing  :) ), so am working on the bowsprit. Mike (Stuntflyer) had started a thread on some of his rigging issues when he built his longboat: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7277-stropping-and-seizing/?p=214577

Click on the links in the thread. They've helped me to understand what to do . . . now I just need to screw up the courage to start!

Erik

Edited by Erik W
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Tying blocks and rigging seems to be yet another art. I am finding that a combination of constrictor knots, seizing and only applying very,very small amounts of super glue after the knot/rope has taken the strain on the model is working better. Naturally this was only learnt after not doing any of that on earlier ropes/knots/blocks but live and learn.

 

I quite like rigging though it is therapeutic....

...

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The instructions are a bit ambiguous on the rigging. I don't blame Chuck though, after all this is an advanced model kit and it would be assumed the builder already understands how blocks and rigging are properly tied. Stepping back a moment, I except my model isn't going to be perfect (I wish it where). An analogy would be that If I where making music it's more like jazz than classical, but that's OK it's still music. I just thought I'd throw that in because sometimes this hobby can be so frustrating, but I realize the only real failure is giving up and I also realize that all the talented builders on this website put in many years to learn their craft. With that said I need to learn how to rig this puppy.

Edited by MikeB4
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Nirvana,

 

yes I put a pin at the bottom of the mast. I'm not going to put a step under the mast, I do believe I read in the instructions that a step is optional. I drilled a hole in the center floorboard where the pin will fit.

Edited by MikeB4
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I bought some rope from the Syren Ship Model Co. I realize I purchased the wrong sizes for each rope.I'm going to use this rope any way and hope it looks OK.

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Mike,

 

Glad to hear you're going to use the correct size rope.  If the stuff you bought first is larger diameter, I think it would make the boat look clunky, which would be a shame this far along in your great build.  I'll be keeping a close eye on your rigging progress.  Like you, I have no experience whatsoever at this point in the build.  :)

 

Erik

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Eric,

 

The diameter of both ropes are one size under what is recommended. It may have worked, but Chuck is really expedient about getting your order to you, so I might as well get the right stuff. I have plenty of things to work on in the meantime.

 

Mike

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  • 3 weeks later...

I completed the Jib. I also decided to mount the boat to it's base at this Time, I think this will make it easier to rig. You'll notice I extended the the front Iron band for the jib. it fastens further down the stem than what the directions show you. I did this because there's a piece of brass wire running from the top of the stem to right above the fasten. Yes, I broke the stem off, I almost made it threw the build without this infamous break. At least I know I'm in good company. I don't feel to bad about this Modification because looking at the original museum model it appears to fasten further down the stem also. I know this in no way makes mine a museum piece but at least I don't have to feel it's completely inaccurate.

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I have done the same thing many times Mike. All of mine are pined & re-glued.

 

Jesse

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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Mike,

 

It looks great! I recently attached the mast on my longboat. While being careful to not break the mast, I snapped off the bowsprit! Luckily my mounting to the stem wasn't very solid, so it didn't break the stem. I've debated fastening the boat to the base now, knowing the boat willbe pretty hard to handle by the time it's fully rigged.

 

Erik

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  • 2 weeks later...

I like the presentation you're doing... the thin rods supporting it.  Beautiful work, Mike.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Looks good Mike!  If you're like me, this rigging thing is a totally new experience.  In my own case it's a rewarding process . . . but is giving me an ulcer at the same time!  Like with the rest of the boat, take it slow.  I've gained confidence as I've progressed with the rigging.  I'm sure you will too.  I'm looking forward to seeing your results!

 

Erik

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Very nice Mike,

Hmm, using the wire instead of the rope? Great idea!

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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I finished the chain plates. I decided to make another attempt at soldering, which I had completely failed at the last time I tried. Although I'm pleased with the out come this time around it wasn't easy. It was quite a struggle to get the solder to flow. I cleaned the parts in acetone first to make sure there wasn't any oil on the surface of the metal. Then applied flux with a tiny piece of solder. The flux would bubble up from the heat and evaporate before the solder would reach it's melting point. once I got it to melt it would bead up and not flow properly because there was no flux on the part at that point. I managed to get the chain plates done but it took hours, Needless to say there's something here I still don't get when it comes to soldering.

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I had similar issues when I started playing with soldering very small parts using flux and solid solder.  The solution for me was to switch to soldering paste.  I am currently using this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OVI0IY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02

 

There are a bunch of different soldering pastes, and different temperature pastes as well so that you can start with a 'hot', then do another connection near that one with a 'medium' temp paste, etc. so that the 'hot' bond doesn't break when doing the next one.

 

Since the paste has the flux mixed in, you won't have the issues with the flux boiling off prior to the solder melting.

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I miss placed the deadeyes that came with the kit and I've spent way to much time looking for them. them damn gremlins are t it again, Fortunately my Fair American kit had some that are the right size only made off walnut. They'll do, by the time I'm ready to build that Fair American kit I'll have upgraded most of the parts with better stuff than what comes in the kit anyhow.

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Thank you for that information, I'm going to purchase the paste and give it a try. Do you use an iron or a torch?

 

I use a torch as I found that I couldn't hold both parts together while making solid contact with an iron also.  The torch heats the metal much faster also.   I use a small 'pencil' torch.

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I miss placed the deadeyes that came with the kit and I've spent way to much time looking for them. them damn gremlins are t it again,

 

I know the Gremlins are still around....... wreaking havoc when it comes to parts......    Ne er finding the i ems you are looking for.

Hey,  they are ev n taking away letters.

Mike, I bought deadeyes from Chuck, very nice once that I am to use. So I have extra, just in case of the Gremlins. ;)

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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But your longboat is coming just beautifully!

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've connected the shrouds and laniards. This is the first time I've actually done this on any model. It didn't come out perfect that's for sure, but I learned a lot and hopefully I'll get better at this over time.

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